Breezy_Pete

I woke up wondering the same, it could be a much cheaper and easier repair if it were just the hub assembly, rather than the beam. Looking at the pictures in this ebay listing here, particularly the second to last one, makes me think that the bearing would surely be audibly and functionally destroyed ahead of that structure getting bent? Thoughts @skomaz, @J.R., @bentrearhubassemblyexpert?

I took a quick look at both our Polo and Fabia an hour or two ago, both of which are in spec as far as I know, for their respective rear ends. The toe in is quite visible even at a casual glance, so nearly 2 degrees of toe out on Andy's car's nearside rear must stick out like a sore thumb, I'd think?

Thanks but already resolved I think. 🙂

That's the same price with VAT added. I took out a subscription to partslink24 recently. Very handy.

I don't think I have the relevant erWin documents for this model. The wonderfully helpful fella that is @varooom may have?

See if this helps. Why do you not believe the rear beam has a problem (e.g. being bent)? Have you inspected thoroughly from underneath yourself? Probably needs to be on an overhead ramp/lift to see clearly.

Hit and miss with them unfortunately. I'm considering setting up an automotive company for myself and getting an account there as a fringe benefit!

I would think you could probably see the left (nearside) rear's non-straightness (toe problem) by eye, relative to the front-to-back centreline of car?

Yep, should get one at that price from any dealer or maybe a little less at a cooperative TPS.

If you like I can copy and annotate the relevant bits of that printout to improve its clarity?

Toe is miles out on left too, looks like something wrong at left end of beam.

Depends what is being referred to by 'axle', I'm assuming rear beam, but not sure if @AndyM20's car has this or independent rear suspension?

Axle could be bent in front-to-rear plane, I guess causing toe alignment issues which might be involved.

If the axle is indeed bent then you will have to change it. Skoda would only fit new genuine. Other garages may be able to get good secondhand or possibly even aftermarket versions which would both be much cheaper, and labour rates almost certainly less too.

Unless the car is in warranty, why give Skoda the work?

Bike puncture repair patch? I guess £37.09 + VAT from a dealership is not in your 'sensible price' category?

I think you'll find it on the relay panel behind lower dash trim, driver's side. Spans positions 13 and 14 on bottom row.

Might have to try via his forum. I was going to say the same as skomaz, but when I went to look up details there was a pop-up that said 'no longer trading, but forum still active for now'. ☹️

Look for broken wires between a-pillar and door.

See paragraph about fan testing in an earlier post of mine up there ^.

Ask the mechanic what the exact fault code was, unless it was the same as in your picture? Bank 1 sensor 1 could refer to a lambda sensor or a temperature sensor, so no use without the code number. For fan testing I would recommend disconnecting the radiator thermoswitch (just above bottom hose connection) and bridging contacts of the loom plug. Will provide a marked-up picture shortly. No idea about DPFs, sorry.

Not according to your screenshot, nor google. What's awkward for you is that there may be 3 exhaust gas temperature sensors in your exhaust system, so you'd do well to get a less generic fault code to narrow down which is being detected as faulty. VCDS Lite will do for scanning your car. Rad fan may well be the fan itself rather than any sensor or thermoswitch. Can guide you to testing it out, please say if the car has working A/C or not.

Compare google image results for the two part numbers would be my suggestion.

Cabin fuse no. 1, and strip fuse no. 6 (2nd from left) in the covered section in the left part of your photo above, are the only ones relevant on your car. If they check out OK disconnect the fan at the connector where it goes from 3 wires (from fan control module) to 2 wires (to fan itself) and apply 12V to the fan side wires red wire positive, brown negative. If that spins up OK (fingers/hands clear, it'll go at full chat, loud and choppy-fingery) the fan itself is OK, and the fault will either be the connector, which contains the low-speed resistor according to the circuits, or the fan control module. Report back on fuses and direct feed test first. 👍