Breezy_Pete

T11a pin 10 for your car, built 31/03/2004. It ends up on pin 14 of the 81-way connector at the engine ECU, if you fancy taking a different way through. Same T11a connection for any car built before May 2004 by the looks of it. T11b pin 6 from May 2004.

9N, I think, by the time of the 9N3 I think they'd gone to the 'skeleton' version.

Some strategic drilling and tyraps?

Needs to be the right one of the two. Think it changed at some point in time, can't remember details just now. If you message me with your VIN I can look into it for you tomorrow.

Well done for sorting it and particular thanks for posting back with the information about what the problem was.

Breakers yard, or patience on ebay. Up until a year ago you could have bought a new one from dealership for £60 + VAT, so there may be some new old stock ones about, I guess.

Careful drilling out might unstick them.

Often the way. Except the no charge bit!

This came up in my youtube suggestions: Spot check only as explained within, but potentially something anyone can do themselves, with suitable care.

20 Amp.

Could also be worth checking that none of the pins of the male connector at the a-pillar have got bent during unplugging/reconnecting operations. Phone camera may be able to get a pic where eyeballs struggle to be.

Might be easier to just ask them what part number they sold to you, if you didn't keep the receipt?

I've been trying to ask him the same thing in a PM conversation. It was new from Skoda apparently, but I haven't had any confirmation from him of what part number was supplied. Catalogue says his original was 5J0971120GK, which was dropped in September 2013 and replaced by 5J0971120HG. Not sure what the problem is in saying what he has been supplied with?

Realistically, it's likely to outlive our ownership of the car, so not worried about reliability; and I can always pop the fixed pulley back on. I'll have to see if I can detect anything different in driving feel. Anyone got same engine with a freewheel pulley on it now? Can't recall much if any discussion of them except on the diesels.

Anyone changed from one type to the other on the same car? I recently discovered that our AZQ engined 1.2/12-valve Fabia is supposed to have a freewheeling alt pulley. (According to partslink24, when VIN filtering results). When we acquired it at approx 100k miles it didn't have such a thing. Wondering if I/we will notice any difference if/when I fit one? Got a Valeo branded one for not too much from ebay. Not seen it yet. Not really sure there's much point, but the experiment seemed interesting. 🤔

It'll be fine.

Perhaps they tried and failed or just failed.

Did the battery management system get told that a new battery had been fitted?

If the engine isn't running, the alternator will not be able to generate any power. 🙃

Google imaging the WHT version of those part numbers suggests it is a 10.9 grade, so yes.

Any holidays coming up when the car won't be used? I'd be happy to attempt repair by post on a no success no charge basis, and at a lot less than £100 if successful. On the mk1s there's a track that goes under a sticker on the back of the cluster that sometimes overheats and burns out, can't remember which LEDs that takes out but might well be these.

Check fuse 11, a 5 Amp one that may have blown and taken out mirror stuff if black/blue wire on pin 7 was busted and shorting to a brown one at any time. Don't think that would explain the windows though. Is it just the front windows that are leccy powered?

On such a critical application as this engine I'd be tempted to pay the extra fiver or whatever for genuine from dealership.

A replacement EGR complete with o-rings etc for £60 sounds like the easy solution, really.

Check under-bonnet fuse #22 (5 Amp) before you do anything else. That seems to supply just the clutch switch/position sensor, at first glance. If that's OK, you should get 12V at pin 5 of the connector at the pedal (red/blue wire), with ignition switched on with engine running. With pedal not pushed, that should conduct straight through to the white/red wire on pin 2, and onwards to engine ECU pin 43 of the 94-way connector. The brown wire on pin 1 needs to be connected to earth too, nothing will change if that's not intact. When clutch pedal is pressed that 12V feed should be interrupted and no longer be seen on the white/red wire.