Breezy_Pete

Either can have either mate, I believe, that's why it's tricky. Our car is AZQ engine, pentium's and les's are BME

@LesCM19 Your front brake PR code is 1LB. FS2 calipers, 239mm discs, pad part number for genuine is 6N0 698 151C. Info from partslink24, filtered by your VIN. @Carlston, you should consider subscribing, I feel it would save you a lot of time.

The photo of the fs3 caliper was not one that is on a car with 239mm discs. Please stop messing the thread up with irrelevance.

Only 256mm in Fabia, Ken, which is what this thread is about. No 280mm disc FSIII options in mk1 or mk2 Fabia AFAIK. I think I've told you this before.

Scroll up your whatsapp messages to 22nd April. 🙂

FSIII calipers of the time tended to be a bit more 'loud and proud' at self identification in my experience. My partner has a mk1 1.2 12V with 239mm discs, as does @AnnoyingPentium's I think?

Some do, some don't; online databases are very unreliable in correctly identifying which. If @LesCM19would like certainty (though the caliper already provides that, FSIIIs correlate with 256mm discs), he could message me his VIN.

Looks like an FSII caliper which goes with 239mm discs, and pads which are different shapes inner vs outer. If you have a pic of the other side of those pads it might be easier to be sure, but the backplates do look different.

Easy to imagine that VW Group expected more from Cariad than was reasonably possible, therefore wrong heads being rolled?

What is Cariad? Ah, found it, quite a way down Google page https://www.volkswagenag.com/en/group/brands-and-models/cariad.html

Most Skoda models have them wired directly to battery positive via nothing but fuses. Citigo is a counter-example, there may be others. Karoq has all of them fed from fuse 40 which is in turn fed from an under-bonnet fuse that connects directly to battery positive.

Just to point out to others, a new genuine switch from Skoda dealerships currently retails at £20.05 inc VAT, part number 6Q0 945 511

Put "kkl cable" into your preferred shopping outlet search box and pick one. Preferably one that comes without pirated software on a CD etc. Much better to download the real vcds lite from ross-tech.com, it is far less likely to include spyware.

Message me your VIN and I can look up part number for you. 🙂

Chain.

Lock motor is inside the lock module.

Only other thing I can think is that both door locks have trouble with their motors. Maybe try the following experiment with a helper. With assistant at opposite door, get them to gently 'hammer' continuously with palm of hand on the outside of the door just below the handle, while you turn the key each way in the other front door, attempting to get all doors to lock and unlock. The idea being to just agitate the motor and gears that it drives at the time the current is applied to try to move it. If there is now occasional correct function at either or both locks, I'd start planning replacement of at least the passenger side one, on the basis that if that does what it should while key-locking from the normal entry/exit door, the car is unlikely to be left accidentally insecure.

Oh, that's unlucky. 🙁 Does the car have electric windows? If so do they work?

I'd repair it any old how for the time being, and see if any functions are restored, seems like some things ought to re-awaken. Perhaps drivers side loom has been replaced before now?

Yes, there's a version of CCU that can be swapped in to upgrade to factory type remote central locking. Bit more to it than just that. Not sure if there's a 'how to' thread on here, but there certainly is on clubpolo.

Each door lock contains a small dc motor. The connections are reversible within the central convenience control unit so that it can lock, or unlock each. If either wire is broken, the motor cannot be driven from central command any more, so the lock can only by turned by key, mechanically. I think your symptoms are consistent with at least one of these motor wires being broken on each side.

Inspect door looms inside the bellows adjacent to the a-pillar connectors, both sides. Expect a broken wire or more at both locations.

Only if the air filter was missing or damaged.

Why do you think it needs cleaning?

Do you know that the rims have radius seats for the wheel bolts, rather than taper seats? Type of bolt needs to match seat type.