Breezy_Pete

Check cabin fuse 4 (5 Amp). It supplies the air quality sensor and the refrigerant pressure sensor. I doubt the A/C would work at all if blown, but free and easy to check.

With a bit of luck someone familiar with the versions of wiring in your car will be bothered to try to help. Might help if you know which side of May 2013 the car was built, cos there's different wiring documents that cover before and after that May.

You might have to cross over the yellow and red power feeds shown in your first pic. There look to be plug/skt connectors halfway along where you can easily do this. There should be a lot of posts on Briskoda about this.

When you say it doesn't turn off with ignition, do you mean when key is completely removed?

According to the circuit diagram, there's a (thin red/black) wire from fuse 23 going out of pin 28 of a 40 way connector on the fusebox, and that wire then goes back in on pin 15 of the same connector at the fusebox, to the relay terminal 86, via some splice/junction in the loom where it tees off to the engine ECU (pin 92 of 94-way). If that connection into pin 15 wasn't good, or that wire damaged somewhere, it might explain what you're seeing?

Does the relay have two 1/4" wide pins and two 3/8"? 85 and 86 connections are the narrower ones, one of them (the slots the relay pins go into) should be 12V, directly from that fuse.

Are there no markings adjacent to the holes/slots the relay pins go into on the panel?

I don't have the relevant document for mk3 Fabia, but others will confirm. Definitely not a good idea to undo them just to tighten them again to spec though, unless they were under-tightened.

The torque required to undo a plug is irrelevant to the correct tightening torque. Adding your engine code to the discussion may help in finding the relevant spec, but if you haven't stripped any threads, everything will be fine.

Double-check that fuse 23 is supplying a permanent 12V to terminal 86 of the relay holder, if so, check continuity from terminal 85 of the relay socket to engine ECU pin 69 of the 94 way connector. If that's intact, then the ECU is choosing not to energise the relay for some reason.

@417original did you try Carlston's ebay link? If not, you have 288x25 front discs, PR code 1ZE.

A compressible foam seal to close any gap is the usual solution. Just grab one off almost any scrapyard car, it will either be attached to the bonnet or the front edge of the 'water box' as VW group usually call the scuttle area. Cut and glue to correct size and shape, and space off with random other material to get the degree of compression just right to seal. It's not the odourous gases you should worry about, it's carbon monoxide which will kill you without any bad smell to let you know it's there.

Just top it up with tap water then, doesn't look very low. Is it even below min?

Just go to a Skoda dealer and buy from the parts counter. They'll give you the right one and it won't be megabucks I think. Do you have a leak?

So 1.4 16 valve? 75 or 100bhp?

What year is the car, and what engine type please. There are a few different ones.

Find/visit someone with VCDS and ask them to do the second thing in this post: VAG-COM: Useful Fabia Codes - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA

That can be changed with VCDS to open all at first press, if anyone prefers that (I do).

You're welcome. Something similar happens with the ABS system, which on earlier mk1s had its main pump fuse in position 6. On your car that's in position 4 and looks newer, so probably already replaced. 🙂

Check your email.

Seems to be just one part number for left front door, and one for right front door (1Z0 831 056), no mention of body style in that section of parts catalogue, so yes.

It was edited in some time after the breakfast time part of the post.

I have no idea about how successful the Felicia pollen filter arrangement is, and very little knowledge of the Octavia one, except that I've never noticed many complaints about it here. Perhaps your scuttle cover is incomplete or damaged? Not really interested in arguing with you about it!

From what I can see here: Passat B8 1.6 Coolant Pump C P26F700 Supply Voltage Circuit error | UK Volkswagen Forum the pump in question is known as V488 in the circuit diagrams, which on your car is supplied by fuse 7 in the engine bay fusebox, a 10 amp fuse. If that is intact, check the power and ground are getting to the connector (see @Crasher's image in linked thread) of the pump. Pin 1, a brown wire should connect to earth/battery negative; pin 2 a red/blue wire should have 12V when engine is running; pin 3 green/yellow wire is the control signal from engine ECU pin 37 on the 91-way connector. These all go via an intermediate 10-way connector pair somewhere on nearside (UK) of engine bay, through pin numbers 7, 8, 9. So find that and check for wire damage nearby, as well as near the pump itself.

Have you seen Hatboy Harvey's video on this subject? I saw it a few weeks back, and it motivated me to buy spares of the two alloy tubes prior to tackling this job later in the summer. Available new from Skoda at not much over a tenner each! Will add vid link and part numbers/exact prices once I've woken up a bit more. (May be different on Octavia, which is what you're maybe asking about @cyberkul?)