Breezy_Pete

Chain.

Lock motor is inside the lock module.

Only other thing I can think is that both door locks have trouble with their motors. Maybe try the following experiment with a helper. With assistant at opposite door, get them to gently 'hammer' continuously with palm of hand on the outside of the door just below the handle, while you turn the key each way in the other front door, attempting to get all doors to lock and unlock. The idea being to just agitate the motor and gears that it drives at the time the current is applied to try to move it. If there is now occasional correct function at either or both locks, I'd start planning replacement of at least the passenger side one, on the basis that if that does what it should while key-locking from the normal entry/exit door, the car is unlikely to be left accidentally insecure.

Oh, that's unlucky. 🙁 Does the car have electric windows? If so do they work?

I'd repair it any old how for the time being, and see if any functions are restored, seems like some things ought to re-awaken. Perhaps drivers side loom has been replaced before now?

Yes, there's a version of CCU that can be swapped in to upgrade to factory type remote central locking. Bit more to it than just that. Not sure if there's a 'how to' thread on here, but there certainly is on clubpolo.

Each door lock contains a small dc motor. The connections are reversible within the central convenience control unit so that it can lock, or unlock each. If either wire is broken, the motor cannot be driven from central command any more, so the lock can only by turned by key, mechanically. I think your symptoms are consistent with at least one of these motor wires being broken on each side.

Inspect door looms inside the bellows adjacent to the a-pillar connectors, both sides. Expect a broken wire or more at both locations.

Only if the air filter was missing or damaged.

Why do you think it needs cleaning?

Do you know that the rims have radius seats for the wheel bolts, rather than taper seats? Type of bolt needs to match seat type.

Good work and useful feedback, well done. 🙂

The grey/white wire on pin 7. 🙂

Your car has the necessary k-line connection to the diagnostic socket socket. As do all mk1 Fabia and mk2 Fabia pre-March 2010. I think Roomster probably also has until March 2010 as it is basically the same car as Fabia. I started a thread about this in mk2 Fabia forum and some people confirmed that it works.

Yes, exactly that.

You'll probably need a beefy puller to break the bond if it's never been apart before. Something along these lines https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354725649411

I think the freeware version of VCDS will work on your car with a suitable, cheap FTDI interface cable. Download VCDS Lite from ross-tech.com and buy a suitable cable from ebay etc for <20 euro.

Oil pressure switch connects to instrument cluster, not ECU. ECUs are generally massively more reliable than wiring looms.

If the oil pressure switch is physically located anywhere near the intake flap valve, look carefully for wiring damage in the loom, possibly caused by moving stuff around during cleaning operations. Pressure switch has a single black wire connection.

Don't think mk1s ever had the BZG engine, so mk2.

Message me your VIN and I can check it for you.

FWIW I can't see any gaps listed in the erWin Fabia mk2 workshop manuals (maintenance nor engine-specific) so Haynes probably just carried forward their info from the mk1 manual when they couldn't find anything else to write. Do you happen to know what your fuel pressure is regulated at? May be stamped into the end of the filter just in front of offside rear wheel. I recently discovered that some of the later mk1 HTPs (some if not all BME 12V engines) got 4 bar regs instead of the original 3 bar. May also be true of the BZG. Could be relevant to spark gaps, I guess?

For the mk1 HTPs the gaps are different for different plug manufacturers, what's listed for mk2, did you say somewhere? Sorry, yes, you did in the first post. What gap did they arrive with?

I tend to disagree, having looked a the stub axle itself (item 11), which has a tight M16 bolt through the middle of it holding the bearing when in service. doesn't look at all likely to bend, according to my amateur structural engineer's gut. This is one such piccy. There's an M16 bolt up the middle of it holding the bearing on, just seems really hefty as an overall chunk, but possibly still worth checking before going for full rear beam swapout:

Always nice to find something about your car that can't ever cause a problem. 🙂