Breezy_Pete

Real preeetty. 🙂

Might be getting past its best, but I'd be rather surprised if it has anything to do with those faults.

ECP's web search by reg number is notoriously bad. Visit in branch or phone them and chat to a human, they have better data available on their screens.

Look on the back of the trim bit, there's almost certainly a part number on it somewhere.

Send me your VIN by PM and I can look up any/all parts that you're considering purchase of. What part number is behind that loom link? Or is just a repair kit, can't really make it out from your screenshot.

Maybe I phrased it poorly Ken; what I was meaning is that you cannot watch pressure numbers via a pressure switch, as the OP seemed to be suggesting when he mentioned "I was checking if an app could check oil pressure for now..." He already changed the 'sensor' so it's not likely to be a problem with debris in the old switch. The only pressure information available from the switch is 'above threshold' and 'below threshold', which the instrument cluster is already using, with engine rpm factored in, to indicate a problem to the driver via the red light. The OP or his partner may well find that changing gear to increase rpm on these hills where the problem seems to show itself will help. Low rpm makes it harder to maintain good oil pressure. That's a temporary workaround though, not a suggested 'fix'. How many km has this car covered, and what exact oil is it currently operating with since last June? If that's unknown, do an immediate oil change using 50400/50700 compliant oil with a high quality filter.

Wiring is pretty simple, pressure switch (F1) earths wire to engine metalwork when 'on' and breaks circuit to pin 27 at cluster 32-way connector when 'off'. 14 way connector in engine bay interfacing the two looms. Seems more likely to be a real pressure issue than an electrical fault to me though, possibly associated with dpf regens or attempted ones. Engine code would be handy to be definitely looking at correct info, as always.

I meant genuine Skoda hose, those all appear to be aftermarket/pattern parts with my non-existent understanding of Greek.

Doubt it's a sensor usually just a switch. No data output just short circuit or open circuit.

6U0121101 was discontinued in 2017 sadly, but you might just get lucky with a new old stock genuine one loitering somewhere, unless that's what yours is already? Pity, cos retail price was only 7.70GBP when available, which seems refreshingly good value.

See what faults return by scanning semi-regularly until one does, or the EPC light reappears. The first engine fault to reappear is likelier to be the true cause, subsequent ones may be 'collateral issues'.

Make a prominent mark on the radiator plastic that will allow regular inspection for any axial movement. I think friction will be your friend here and it won't move unless something dramatic happens like overpressure from head gasket failure.

Often a wiring break adjacent to the cable entry of the connector of switch on gearbox. Worth eyeballing before buying anything.

Up to 10% includes 0, 1, 2 etc. Sadly from what I've heard about the current/latest refrigerant, it's not only much more expensive but also leaks more easily! But not as damaging to the atmosphere... Just your wallet. Not sure if car under discussion uses this or older version.

Displayed 90 covers a wide range of temperatures, so it may be getting a lot warmer, covertly. I would test radiator fan function if I were you, that could be causing trouble if not working as designed. 1 or 2 radiator fans? Air conditioning fitted?

Maybe, but I think just some suitable sealant over outside of that plastic tube, after thorough cleaning, a new hose and a spring band clamp would be my approach. Metal and plastic will have different thermal expansivity, which would make me reluctant to use a metal insert/exsert (think I made up that word), and why sprung clamps are nice as they can accommodate dimension changes with temperature and retain close to constant clamp force.

I like your thinking, would be great to find a fix which can re-use that rad. Are replacement hoses available? Do you have part number? I can search by VIN if helpful.

Same here, sounds like much less grief.

Yes, old rubber does lose its conformability and make resealing difficult, encouraging overtightening as a 'solution'. Aftermarket radiators can also have poorly made/finished fittings with misalignment and protruding bits where all should be smooth and round. Wait, if the radiator is 23 years old it's the original, my mistake. Probably I assumed aftermarket and recent because you pictured a new one.

Flock of Fabias, for the alliteration. 🙂

Two things to think about for those who think they run the A/C 24/7/365 - You don't cos it stops every time the engine does. You don't gain much reliability by doing so because for the last twenty years or so Skodas have had variable displacement clutchless compressors which never reduce circulation down to zero even when nominally 'off'.

Undoing any of the engine mounts theoretically requires replacement of the bolts, but the 'dogbone' one under the gearbox, if you undo the gearbox end, those bolts go into blind holes so are unlikely to be in poor condition. There are flexible mounts (to cope with thermal expansion/contraction) in the exhaust, so won't be likely to break anything by rocking the bottom of the engine a little.

They tend to only test with dry nitrogen if there's obvious leakage during a vacuum hold period, or documented rapid leakage from a recent refill at same establishment or on the car's records.

What type of hose clip was used on that connection? Spring band or worm-screw type? Can easily apply too much force with the latter.

Well done. Yes, the black/violet will be nominal 12V whenever ignition is on.