Breezy_Pete

TBH, with the sump as it is, it seems very unlikely that the engine isn't seriously damaged.

Agreed, I was only offering a way to get charge into the car's battery, may or may not help. Obviously, the a-pillar end of the wires that are used will need to be connected to a-pillar still.

Battery charger? Not many will put out more than 10 Amps. Earth to any unpainted metal, or the thickest brown wire in same bunch.

Thick red/yellow wire within that bellows should allow you get 12V into the system, main permanent power feed to door control unit. Use a 12V supply that can't give more than about 15-20 Amps so there shouldn't be any risk of blowing the fuse (30 amp) supplying that wire.

Vehicle identification number. Look through your windscreen just below passenger side wiper.

288mm probably, but message me with your VIN for confirmation of original fitment if you like.

If they pass MOT, who cares? Creating problems for yourself, sorry.

I'm a touch baffled about why mpg matters if you're only spending £10 or £15 a month on fuel?

Why? Just use incandescents and save yourself and following drivers aggro. LED license plate lamps in housings not designed for them result in nasty glare.

See what the coming MOT says. If it's a fail for front disc condition or thickness, it's definitely time to replace them. Bet it doesn't say anything different to last year's though.

Could also be rear door to B-pillar wiring break, especially if that door gets used regularly. No substitute for visual inspection of both really.

See what VCDS says about the refrigerant pressure when the engine/car is stone cold (engine not running, just ignition on).

Keep an eye on ebay, or make your requirements known to a local scrapyard, I picked up a set of wheels plus good tyres (only 20% worn approx.) of this size from ebay a few years back for just over £100 delivered. Generally they're likely to be collection only, and a shade more than that, but you might get lucky with someone 'upgrading' to alloys who just wants rid. Put a wanted ad on here. Come to think of it, I've got some in my shed, though the tyres are all needing replacement. Not in mint condition either but could be very cheap! 😁

6J x 14 steel wheels are the factory fit for 185/60R14 tyres. Probably/definitely some alloy versions of 6J x 14 available too. Should be easy to find secondhand.

Yes and yes.

Check that radiator fan(s) are spinning up if you demand cold air with engine warm.

Combined fuel pump and vacuum pump 'tandem pump' I think. Yes, that's the fuel temp sensor, I reckon.

Pin number at BCM black 73-way connector is 38 for the heated mirror outputs, both sides, black/red wire that goes to the right (UK) driver's side one, black wire going to UK pass side. The output to the "Output for warning light for SAFE function of central locking" is on pin 58 of same BCM connector, a white/violet wire. Interestingly... They go through the 28-way at the right A-pillar on adjacent pins, 13 and 14. I wonder if you've got a bent pin in there or some moisture ingress shorting the two pins together? Can be hard to see, but a phone camera on 'macro' can probably get a good shot with female connector removed.

Message me with your VIN.

That does sound like an odd one! I'll see what I can dig up for you this afternoon.

Is the fault one or both sides? Can find later for you; you've checked the A-pillar wiring, right?

1st thing to do after you've pulled over somewhere you can stop safely is check that all the oil is still in the engine, using the dipstick. 2nd thing is to undo the connector from the oil pressure switch and see if it looks like this: If you don't know where the oil pressure switch is on your engine, it's probably not a bad idea to find it, ahead of need. Typically the only sensor connection with a single wire. There's a diaphragm within these pressure switches, which is how it converts the pressure into mechanical movement and operates the electrical switch. When the diaphragm fails, the oil leaks through into the electrical switch part and on out to the inside of the electrical connector. I could see there was moistness where there should have been dryness before even unplugging the connector, but a steady dribble of oil after doing so. So much better than any other scenario that could have been behind these warnings. Cheap, quick fix with replacement switch.

Checked for broken wires in the bellows between each front door and A-pillar? Start with passenger side. Mk2 Fabias are brilliant at breaking these wires.

Yes the main engine earth connection (big fat wire, probably black) is often connected onto one of the two big fasteners that hold the starter motor in place. That cable needs to be present and not corroded at either end.

OK, nice quick answers, my favourite type. The starter solenoid appears to be driven directly from the ignition switch on your car, no relay involved. Have you been able to check that there is no damage to the starter solenoid cable in the vicinity of its connection to the starter motor. It's a thin red/black, single wire?