Breezy_Pete

Best idea is to refit the wheel (if removed currently), recruit an assistant equipped with gloves and then ask them to rock the wheel about its vertical axis, holding it at 9 and 3 o'clock, while you watch how much movement there really is at that pin/bush interface (video it for later reference). Then repeat on the other side as a comparison. Just noticed the pry-bar video; that doesn't look like much movement to me. Compare to other side.

I think that's probably all normal behaviour for the courtesy light, I was trying to discover if the car was correctly sensing door open/closed status, which seems fine. Checking presence and condition of cabin fuse #51 (25A) would be my next suggestion. Beware of 180 degree mismatch possibility between fuse numbering diagram in manual and RHD reality. (Switch illumination is unaffected by this fuse's health).

There are some high-current fuses at the front of the under-bonnet fusebox, with heavy cables bolted to them. No. 2, the second one from the left as you look at them connects alternator output wire to battery positive. Check that with engine off you can measure the same voltage on the wire going to that fuse, as there is at battery positive. It's a huge (400Amp) rated fuse, but if that had cracked or something, it would mean the alternator could not get any charge to the battery.

😮 Which one? Pic?

Found a part number for this gasket/seal a bit accidentally yesterday while researching a Polo lock part number, it appears also on some Skoda drawings. Cheap (price shown is before VAT) but haven't actually spoken to a Skoda or VW dealer about availability. I've got some coming via ebay for the convenience but might just grab a few from local dealership if still available, for futureproofing reasons.

OK, pin 1 at G31/G42 4-way conn plug, brown wire, goes to engine ECU pin 66, via 4 way black connector pair on gearbox bracket, brown/grey after this point. Pin 2, yellow wire becomes red/grey at the 4-way gearbox connectors, finishing at ECU pin 30 Pin 3, grey/black wire continues as grey/black after mid-connection, going to ECU pin 17 Pin 4, purple wire continues as purple all the way to ECU pin 83 Check visually for wire damage near the cable entries of each of the 4-way connectors at combined sensor and gearbox, then if all clear, continuity test end to end, and test for shorts between each wire of the four, and all to chassis (brown on pin 1 probably should have continuity to chassis)

Just out dogwalking, info soon.

Engine code would assist me in finding wiring info. Letters at beginning of engine number on V5c document.

This will be the thread I should think. Be careful, the dogbone torques in the first post omit the angle stage which is important, @fabdavrav's post has more and better info. (FSII guide pin number is mildly, unimportantly wrong, should be 25Nm, won't be relevant to your car, apologies for OTT attention to detail) Fabia nut and bolt tightening torques - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA Bear in mind that anything that has a torque followed by an angle can't have its 'torque' checked by anything other than undoing and starting again, highly counterproductive as many are designated 'replace' if removed. For some it may even matter. If you were to download and save all of the relevant Skoda-authored pdf files relevant to your car from here (and thank @Tech1e for providing it), you would be able to do your own research on almost anything: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

This TF. You are often rude to other posters to the point of seeming belligerent; appearing to ridicule people who you feel to not be operating in ways you do. Just my opinion, others may not share it, though some seem to judging from reactions. I thought I had you on 'ignore' to reduce the annoyance you cause when I read you. Must've got that wrong. Will rectify promptly. Done. Goodbye.

That may indicate that the engine ECU has 'decided' that the input from some or other sensor is untrustworthy, and changed to an operating strategy that ignores that input.

Do you have any service records that show when engine air filter was last inspected or replaced? Or spark plugs?

Unlikely to be anything to do with the MAP sensor. How many miles has the car done? Since the engine light has been on, there will be one or more fault codes stored in the memory of the engine ECU. It would be optimal to read those for further narrowing down of possibilities. Whereabouts are you? Someone nearby may have the kit required to help you, for example if you were anywhere near me (S. Oxon) I could plug in a laptop with a VCDS cable and see what it's saying.

Is that a petrol engine, 3-cylinder?, we're a bit light on background information here. If it is a petrol, you won't find a MAF sensor. They use MAP instead. Cleaning it almost never helps with anything.

See title. He's hoping someone answering that description is reading, and may help. If you are not such a person, and don't actually have any further help to offer, perhaps leave him alone?

Thanks Graham. You already know how sad I was to hear about your car. Appreciate your kind comments. Second really nice thing that's happened for me today. Hope you have such a good day soon.

The rear screenwash on the estate comes out of the high-level brake light fitting. May well be disconnected at the firewall below ECU though, probably the most common place for frost expansion to pop it apart. Just pushes back together, but access may be tricky.

Watch all two minutes cos he has a slight memory lapse about which way to pull the latch, but the gist of it is reasonably clear, especially showing the 'push on' movement prior to attempting to release latch

Are you OK now?

Just negative will do perfectly. 1 minute to be sure.

Disconnect and clean up the main engine earth connection, typically attached to top starter motor mounting bolt.

No idea how that passed any sort of vacuum or pressure test prior to refilling, so ought to include refill after repair - looks like an error in their process. If you message me your VIN I may be able to find a price for that pipe, if you're curious.

Does the courtesy light get triggered by front passenger door opening?

Passenger side loom appears to lack the equivalent of the violet/white visible in lower corner of driver's side 28-way. Should be in same position. This is the data connection between window motor modules, I believe. Possibility of wrong loom fitted? Edit, no, that's wrong, sorry. Grey/whites on pin 5 each side are that data line. Can you send me your VIN by private message to facilitate parts identification, please?

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