Breezy_Pete

Coolant reservoir connector generally is solely for coolant level sensor.

Check blade fuse 2 on right side (as you look) of the fuseholder on the battery (second nearest fuse to front of car). If that's intact, unplug the connector of the radiator thermoswitch (often near radiator bottom hose connection) and short the terminals of the loom plug, fan should spin up (mind fingers/hands).

😂 never mind then.

That's lucky timing, I sent what I thought was my only exchange Mk2 Fabia unit out yesterday; but this morning stumbled upon a box labelled F2, which will contain what you're needing. A Private Message should appear in your inbox shortly. 👍

Send me a message with VIN and I can probably help.

Paging @Crasher for real world experience. My take on it, without having seen or done, would be that it's almost always quicker and easier to remove stuff that's in the way compared with struggling against poor access and/or visibility.

6R0423156C is the part number suggested. This page suggests that there are a lot of part numbers equivalent to this, but I would stick to what's suggested as a first search. You may not wish to consider new from Skoda, the pre-VAT cost just breaks into 4 figures.

Pull harder I think Joe. The o-rings will have hardened and become less able to seal or deform to escape the housing, but brutality will win. 🙂 Counterhold locally with your other hand to avoid straining anything else nearby. Edit: I've just fixed the broken picture link in the opening post should it be any help.

Can look up for you later if you message me with your VIN. Just off to the gym now.

All the screen options appear to be identical between the two models Roomy and Fabia mk2 (years picked as being close to your car):

Hi Josh and welcome.

When the original(?) screen was replaced on our 2005 mk1 last year some time, the fitter asked if it had been leaking at one point on top edge. Barely any seal material there at all, he reckoned. Don't think it ever did leak though.

I wonder if the wheels are just not parallel. Spend a bit of time going backwards and forwards a few metres on a really nice flat surface, aiming to get your driver's side front wheel pointing perfectly straight forwards. Then go around and look at what angle the other front wheel is relative to the car as a whole. The eye is really sensitive to detecting 'not straight'. Or take it to a place that does 'free' alignment checks, if that exists in your country.

Did all those things, washing etc. never did much good at all. Think the return spring was just code-F. High mileage car.

If you message me your VIN @Kelly_Heroes I can tell you the part number and price for correct new genuine for your car. I bought one a few years back after getting too annoyed at the slow retraction thing, it wasn't too horrific price-wise. North of £100 but not by too much if memory serves.

Yep, that's good, assumingyou mean where his fingers are? The plastic two-way connector also needs to be connected, but I think you said above that this is also true.

Can you see enough of the back end of the alternator to be sure they reconnected the other end of that cable to it? Properly dangerous if it's just floating about loose down there!

I think it has to go back here, doesn't it. Must be some kind of warranty on the parts and labour. Job clearly not 100%.

Found one Daniel. Just doing a little quality control inspection and testing. Message me with a delivery address and I'll reply with payment info once I'm 100% happy with it.

Next time I can get the dog off my lap I will check to see if I have an exchange unit to suit your car. I think I will have. That seems like your best option, cos you could swap that in and out with the current/original unit to see if mine always works and yours doesn't. Just need to be careful with the plastic mountings it attaches to, to avoid breakage if iterating a few times.

This is the full wiring for passenger front window on your car @Beareka. J519 is a central control unit, as is J393. F221 is the lock module on that door. E107 is the switch on that door. Rectangle contained 8 is the feed from the 25Amp fuse. Rectangle containing 22 is the connection across the car to the equivalent wire on driver's window module, the data connection. Circles containing 370 and 373 are earth studs. T28b is the connector at the A-pillar. Note for other readers; there is a different version of this diagram for earlier (and later) cars than the OP's, with a different window motor part. The part number specified above is VIN-searched to be correct for this car, don't assume it's the same for your car.

I added another link with another unit at approx same price from a different seller. Lots of choices. The passenger side ones are 'slaves' to the driver's side ones, and are generally more reliable, but at these prices maybe it's just nice to have one to try. Really the main measurement is to try to prove that 12V exists between the thick red/white wire (permanent 12V supply) and the thick brown wire (earth/chassis) at the connector for the window motor, to be sure it is getting power. There is another wire that is a data connection between the two, the grey/whites I mentioned in an earlier post. You could measure resistance/continuity from one end of each of those wires to the other, by unplugging connectors at motors and A-pillar. Or come to visit Oxford for a day in the car and let me. 😁

6Q1959802E is the part number. Close matches are no good, only exact match will work correctly. For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394560483616 Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115723718748

Nice data. So Skoda info is at fault. They should probably call it 'Driver's window fuse' and 'passenger window fuse' and then the info would stay correct for LHD and RHD builds. I will see if I have a spare RHD left/passenger motor module that you could substitute in, but I don't think I have. Might be cheap to buy from ebay though, I will give you exact part number shortly. Do you have an electrical test meter with which you could measure voltages at the left motor module if the door card was removed?

Left and right as judged sitting in the driver's seat facing forward? The pictorials of the windows on your sticker suggests that 51 is left, from the glass shape (when sticker other way up), and 52 right (UK driver' side). I suppose that depends if you're looking at the glass from inside or outside! 😁 If left window doesn't work at all, how do you know which fuse might be the one that it needs? By elimination because right window stops working if you remove 51?