Breezy_Pete

Your roof will not collapse and crush you, even if the vehicle rolls and lands on its roof. Therefore it can take a lot more load than 75Kg. The 75Kg limit is about not raising the vehicle's overall centre of gravity too much for handling to be adversely affected when in motion.

Roof load is all about what's safe to drive with up there. Presumably no one will be in the tent when mobile.

If you find the engine code I could look up the wiring relevant to the fault. Without it, I can't.

The relay will be soldered onto the circuitboard of the BCM, but your BCM will not resemble either of the ones shown in the linked thread. I have no experience with this later BCM type (just two large connectors). Expecting one in the post shortly though, so could potentially examine circuitry associated with front wipers.

Engine code is the starting point for any wiring/circuit research. Probably shown a few lines above the top of the section of your scan above, or on a sticker on the upper cambelt cover, or at the start of the engine number on V5c. Example shown below for a different engine type.

Might be another springtime project in the offing. Just scanned the car and got this, which was about 20 minutes into our return journey from Christmas visiting. As well as the scaryish-sounding fault, the engine temperature (reported) looks rather low for the time since start-up, as does the system voltage at 13.9V. I wonder what the deviation numbers mean? No chain replacement has occurred since (engine) factory build 165k miles ago, I'm pretty sure.

Driving about on Christmas Eve visiting relatives, the absence of cruise control was mentioned at one point. So I had a quick look on partslink24 and ebay and ended up buying a kit yesterday. Genuine NOS of correct PN per VIN. Wasn't cheap at £150, but considering it includes new stalks, BCM and some sort of loom section, seemed reasonable. Found a link or two on TeamBHP that makes it look doable with VCDS and effort. Quite looking forward to a New Year project. Probably won't really start until springtime, but you know, in the pipeline. 😁

Missed this post, sorry for not acknowledging. Interesting thought. What was 'alsonager' meant to say? Also managed? Sounds worthy of investigation, ta.

^ That's incredibly beautiful.

What is your engine code? If it is BNM or BNV then the circuit info looks like this, with no clear marking of +5V or signal, or even +, so I'm not sure you should expect to find a 'power' pin. Later diagram for BMS engine code (first found in mk2 Fabia I think) shows something more like what you seem to be expecting, or even what you are looking at in terms of a circuit diagram: Looks to be two different technologies of crank sensor in these two examples.

You could just cut the wire near to each connector and add a new wire linking the two. (Check that the parts you have cut have continuity to their nearby connector before joining them.)

If it wasn't different in some way, it would not have a different part number.

Reassuringly, if I search partslink24 for 06L109259A for a 2015 Octavia, it shows as being dropped on Apr 1, 2018 and superseded by 06L109259E. £58.60 + VAT each at Skoda.

I see. That makes good sense.

Well said. Would you mind elaborating on why you think cleaning the EGR might reduce oil usage, please?

And the contacts of the connector are clean and dry?

Yes, because of that pull-up resistor, if there is such a thing. Is there any oil or other fluid inside the sensor connector?

OK, so your readings all look OK then. The signal (yellow/violet wire) probably has a so-called pull-up resistor inside the ECU, so that when the sensor is not doing anything that wire will be pulled up to 5V, as you observed. Very unlikely to be an ECU fault, I think. Use VCDS or other diagnostic software to view live data from this sensor while engine is running.

If both plugs were disconnected when you saw 5V on the violet/yellow wire, then it is shorted to the grey/yellow wire somewhere along its length. That situation is exactly what the fault code suggests.

They won't be the same, or they wouldn't have identical part numbers apart from the suffix. Don't know what the difference is though. Partslink24 lists only the 8K0805615A for a 2023 Superb, even if I search for 8K0805615 without the 'A'.

Circuit looks like this, where 486 in circle at the bottom is an earth connection in engine prewiring harness and D141 is a 5V connection in same harness. Engine ECU is grey section at top of diagram. No relay involved.

Best is to disconnect ECU connector also, yes. Test each contact at the 3-way connector to each of the others, and also to chassis earth (engine metalwork). If both connectors are unplugged each wire should be unconnected with anything else.

If any two seem to be shorted (when unplugged from the sensor) it could indicate that there is wiring damage somewhere in the loom. Damage where insulation has been affected and conductors are touching each other. This is what the fault code could be telling you.

Check from the sensor connector to see if two of the contacts show as being shorted together.

Look at the horizontal bits of each of the seals that the doors shut onto. Any with little puddles on have leaking ancillary carrier seals on that door. Rears are most common.