Breezy_Pete

No need for VIN. That previous linked thread established engine code, crank sensor type and wiring info to engine ECU. Check continuity of the two wires from pins 1 and 2 of crank sensor loom connector back to engine ECU pins shown in that top diagram.

We've been here recently... Crankshaft Sensor 2.5V - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) - BRISKODA

I think it's probably two signal wires and one that connects to cable screen/shield. Knowing the engine code or VIN if unsure, would allow me to confirm.

I think there's a later type with a hall effect crank sensor which has 5V supply, but I think this one is probably a variable reluctance type where 2.5V may well be correct.

First things first, which sensor did you change? The one on top of the manicat, or the one further down, at the start of the front section of the exhaust? Fault codes point to the second of those. Wiring: blue/red wire on pin 1 of the 4 way is a switched 12V from fuse 31 (heater supply power) brown/white wire from pin 2 of the 4-way goes to engine ECU pin 13 on the 52-way conn. (modulated earth for the heater) grey/white wire from pin 3 of the 4-way goes to ECU pin 21 grey/red wire from pin 4 of 4-way to ECU pin 47 Those are the colours on the loom side of the 4-way connector pair. The sensor wires are probably different colours for the section to sensor itself.

That's a well calibrated set of eyes you have. 😆

Front brake PR is 1ZA, 312x25mm.

I doubt you'll find one anywhere on a 2018 car, and even if there is one, it almost certainly won't include front brake PR code. Message me with your VIN and I can look it up for you.

Oh, that would be handy. My registration got cancelled. Didn't expect to be able to use it again.

@Binx1310 unfortunately erWin stopped offering registration and usage by private individuals just before Christmas.

Thanks Lee, I soon discovered that they are in fact pins to help locate the upper (plastic) timing cover whilst refitting with sealant gasket on two surfaces: I guess they guide the cover into just the right spot at the first attempt, preventing squidging of sealant into places it shouldn't be. Insert all the other screws, then remove these pins to fit last two screws. I've used similar, but homemade things when refitting sumps with liquid gaskets. Will be helpful now that I know what they are. 🙂

You may find this is the part number of an individual pad. Are all four pads this same number? Pads are sold as an axle set, under a different number, as you've found.

I'll see if they get mentioned in the workshop manual. Cheers.

Possibly. What would they lock though?

Doubt it, but no idea really.

Lower dash trim removal on right side should give enough access. BCM is above accelerator pedal, firewall connectors up deeper behind. The firewall connectors are a pain to access from cabin side.

BCM (onboard supply control unit in terminology of the time) at the top. Don't worry about CAN wires on the right, they're just shown for information, no need to add or touch those.

Will stick the wiring info up here in a bit, just got to do something for the next hour or so. Pin 6 of the red 11-way connector at the firewall seems to be the way through to engine ECU. Think I've got the bits to make up all the wiring somewhere.

Should be OK I think. Do you know what date it was built? I think the pin number at the firewall changed at some stage, possibly at facelift. Can look up if you know production date. BCM needs to have a part number starting 6Q0 or 6Q1, I think, which you can read off a VCDS scan if you have one?

Eventually found the locking tools that I knew I had bought, after a battle with my oh-so-tidy (not!) garage. Also a spare cam sprocket screw, so I can keep the chain kit complete. Realised that a first step logically involves attempting to correlate the error code with a measured incorrect cam angle, by just using the crank and cam locking tools, no disassembly other than removing the bits to fit those. With crank lock tool fitted and crank held turned tight up against it, I should be able to see how much of an angle the cam locking tool isn't aligned by. Only thing I wonder is whether it's best done with engine cold or at working temperature; probably the latter, I guess, but I may try both. Anyone know what the two pins are for, on the right in the box?

Did you have anything (bag etc. not a person) sitting on any of the other seats? May have triggered a false 'occupied but not wearing seatbelt' warning.

@Type17520V Just found some info about 02T's in mk2 Fabia: Looks like I was slightly wrong about your engine's power output (because I was in mk1 info before). Any of those 5 gearbox codes in the 1.4l/63 kW group should do you. LVE would be the youngest in chronological terms, but mileage probably more important.

I've used ASM a few times with no problems, based in Thame and Aylesbury, if not more places.

Yes, looking up in partslink24 for JHQ shows 02T 300 020 C as superseding it, which is indeed code LVE. Whereabouts are you? Picking up a gearbox instead of having it delivered may get you a better price.

Working backwards from the JHQ, it seems you have a 1.4 petrol with 59kW/79bhp built after November 2006. Code JFM should be a direct equivalent; fitted to same engine between May 06 and Nov 06. Not sure about later equivalents, as I'm going from mk1 Fabia info. Will see what I can look up in as sec.