Breezy_Pete

Looks like I was wrong about push fit. Top work Lee. If I had the VIN I could see if that part number is a match. Message sent.

From the photograph it looks like that's just a push fit in the bracket. Pull it free and read the part number that will be printed on it somewhere.

I was thinking that maybe a charcoal canister full of liquid fuel could be causing the 'system too rich' fault. Each time the purge valve opens to clear fuel vapour, much more fuel than expected by the ECU may be coming through. It just seemed possible when you mentioned the over-filling of the tank recently.

It will be easier to remove the servo end of the old one if you deplete the residual vacuum by pressing brake pedal a few times first. A bit of saliva as lube on the new one will reduce the force required to insert that end. Other (inlet manifold) end may have a metal clip on the original, not sure. As long as new one is a snug fit that can probably be replaced by a cable tie, or small jubilee clip, but don't over-tighten, the spigot is plastic.

Any rust on the outside edge will also add to measurement error, unless scraped off back to parent metal beneath.

Is the thing you're measuring with going across the sticky-outy bit in the middle? If so, cut a u-shaped piece of cardboard with a 312mm gap between the legs, and use that as a makeshift caliper.

Crank sensor is round the back of the engine block on the htp engines. Approx where this ring shows:

Front brake PR codes do not tend to appear on the boot sticker.

No. There's no pressure sensor, just a pressure switch. That's either on or off, earthing the wire that goes to it, or not, either side of its threshold pressure. Chain timing checking is a bit awkward on this engine, really needing the locking tools to be fitted in place of crankshaft and camshaft sensors. Cam sensor is very easily removed, crank sensor is far from easy to access.

Possibly the thing hasn't remained in the correct installed position, such that its hot bit is leaning on plastic housing?

I could look up the relevant part numbers and PR codes via VIN, but not before this evening. I'm told that if you register (for free) with skoda-parts.com there is a facility to input VIN and then only be offered parts that fit that VIN, when searching. Haven't tried it myself, but maybe try it and see what it shows? ECP are infamous for the lack of specificity in their 'look up by reg' web searching. Very hit and miss.

Interesting. Claimed compatibility doesn't include Roomster, according to this page: Throttle Body Pierburg 03F133062B Difference may be too subtle to matter. Well done for getting something that works anyway. 🙂

Yes they do.

This I think. Two options shown, single and dual speed fan. Fuse 8 in battery fusebox is a standard blade fuse hiding beneath a cover to the right of the strip fuses. Failure of first/low speed function of fan is common; internal resistor burns out.

Can you remember what colour(s) this wire is? There's a lilac/yellow wire that comes from front passenger side module to rear one on same side, which is the data line telling rear what to do. Fuses that power the rear motor modules do both sides, so if other side is working OK, so must they be. Could be worth checking wires going into rear door though, in case any breakages are apparent there.

I have stock of the relay; I'll start a private conversation with you to discuss the options. 🙂

Reply copied from your other, edited thread: "Early mk2 BCM (pre March 2010) is much the same as mk1 version but with a different relay type in the suffix-F BCMs to the previous versions. The relay is soldered into the BCM, as shown in this post, which is going to be the same version as yours, I believe: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/473170-wiper-relay-replacement/#findComment-5806937 You can bypass the relay for test purposes by linking a couple of the wires on the relevant connector. If you read that whole thread, I think it may be described in there somewhere. Whereabouts are you? I would be able to repair for you if helpful."

Edit: Welcome. Reply about wiper problem moved from here to your dedicated post.

This catalogue tends to be quite handy: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs They also sell genuine bits, but delivery can be slow.

These, I think https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0819055a-clip-skoda-22467.html Any dealership parts department should be able to order for you. Some may be reluctant due to low cost.

There's a little nipple-like feature that can be seen if you look into the fuel filler neck with the cap unscrewed. This is supposed to only be pushed in by the fuel cap as it's screwed back on; but it is possible to accidentally or deliberately push it with the petrol pump nozzle while filling. It's particularly easy to do this accidentally if filling with the pump on the wrong side of the car, where the nozzle may go in off-straight due to sideways pull on the pump hose. The vent valve actuated by pushing the nipple is supposed to only connect the air space above the fuel level to the carbon canister when the cap is on, tank sealed. However, if pressed and held down while filling, you can inadvertently fill this planned air space and the carbon canister with liquid fuel instead of vapour. The canister is not designed to cope with this. This may be what has happened and is causing your problem. Removing and emptying the canister may help, I guess. I seem to remember reading about at least one person successfully doing that.

No idea on value. What year is it and whereabouts are you based?

3mm length difference, 0.27%, no problem.

Not sure how it could happen, to be honest. I guess there would have to be a one-way valve somewhere that isn't working. Not sure if the purge valve itself has any reverse flow prevention in its design.

First video looks like a lot of positive pressure. Malfunction in the EVAP system I think. Any recent work done on the engine?