Breezy_Pete

I'm seeing 14Nm + 90 degrees. Workshop manual says to use new screws.

Some images (with connector removed to see beneath it) here: Not an easy DIY fix. Secondhand prices aren't too bad currently, but be careful matching part numbers, including the one that starts SK, beneath the main 6Q1.... number. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537822-front-window-going-mental/#findComment-5996104

The condensation seems to happen on the circuit board, under the body of the connector. I posted some photos of the typical damage the other day in another thread, will link to it later.

Another thing that can apparently make a nasty noise is wear to the HPFP's cam follower. At your mileage I guess that may be a candidate.

Possibly an indirect effect of EGR malfunction. I believe @mac11irl has experienced something like this.

Does your car have a key operated switch for disabling passenger airbag? Does it have side airbags? The brown earth to pin 46 joins a splice in the loom, described as "Connection 1 (airbag), in main wiring harness". That could be anywhere. What pin number and wire colour are you measuring a permanent 12V on? I'm surprised you're finding such a thing.

Are you certain that your probe is getting in there properly, they're probably very thin pins that go into the loom socket? May need a thin stiff bit of wire to get in there, or pierce the insulation with a pin and measure to that?

Oh, OK, I can probably find the relevant page of wiring info for that. I'll start a private message conversation with you to request the VIN, so I can be sure I get the most accurate info.

Microswitch or cracked joints on the lock module circuit board. Have you seen my photo and video of this?

It may be useful to know that the door is fairly easy to completely remove, improving access to both halves of the connector pair immensely. A second person will be handy to support the weight, especially when re-mounting door.

No problem. What problem are you trying to solve? Presumably busted wires inside bellows?

If your cluster shows outside temperature somehow, see if that is working. I faintly remember that the supply within the cluster that feeds that NTC sensor is shared with the fuel gauge supply. So if something was pulling that down - like water ingress into outside temp sensor/connector - it might affect both functions.

If your door loom happens to be the same as the one that I examined in this thread, it may be easier for you. If not, there may be quite a bit of overlap with what yours is: Testing a Mk2 Fabia driver's door loom - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA

It'll vary a bit with year, and what equipment options are in the doors. Official wiring diagrams don't tend to give a pinout for these connectors I think, you just have to piece it all together from all the pages that cover all the door-located electricals. Which aren't all conveniently together.

A fair number of 9n/9n3 Polos would have the same thing with a VW emblem instead. Probably a bunch of Seat Ibizas too, all from same era.

The Skoda emblem has its own number, 06A 103 940K, but the silvery bit it sits in doesn't seem to, even though it comes off easily. I binned mine years ago when it seemed to be rattling. Scrapyard seems the obvious choice to find a cheap replacement.

Eating just now, but it sounds like you need a repair to driver's side motor module. I will message you shortly.

If you mean the round one, there's a rectangular cap, just visible in your pic, that needs to be carefully prised off with a blade, to reveal a screw beneath it.

Only power feed I can spot at a glance is directly from ignition switch, on a pair of black wires, pins 1 and 2 at airbag module, no fuses or relays. Hard to imagine those having a problem without other more dramatic issues presenting themselves. Earth connections are shown as one that's mechanical, through one or more of the mounting fasteners, IIRC, and a couple of others according to fitted equipment on brown wires from pins 46 and others. Pin 15 of the diagnostic (OBDII) connector appears to be marked on the airbag control module wiring page (pin 3 of airbag module connector) as mirroring the ignition supply to the module, so would appear to be an easy way of checking that's getting there. Switch ignition on before hoping to see this!

I'd be really surprised if there was any problem with power to that module. I'll have a look at wiring diagrams in a sec. Neither cruise control nor locking systems have anything to do with that module, as far as I know; although an airbag fault may have impacts on those functions for safety reasons I suppose. Any work done recently anywhere near any airbags? Door loom wiring in bellows checked? Yes, I would say the centre console was already out, and maybe some trim from under steering wheel too, for my pic. Looks like location is identical, as expected.

This generation of motors has a couple of frailties, one of which is moisture/condensation related. This can give all sorts of misbehaviour depending on where the moisture has had its effects. The relays can go bad with contact burnout too. If it reliably clicks its relay when up or down is requested on the switchpack, it could be that the relay contacts that convey power to the motor are somewhat cooked, and making contact but not always a good enough contact to let enough current through to start the motor spinning. Last time I saw this (click but no glass motion) scenario it was an almost severed earth wire in the door loom bellows, but you say you've found no fault there.

Search this phrase, it brings up several options: "vw door won't open". Substituting Skoda for VW may bring up others. One connector or two on window motor?

There are a few videos on YouTube that address this door unopenable situation. Have a look, but I saw one that the algorithm chucked my way just yesterday, so I may be able to get to that easily if the laptop is only 'asleep'.

Is your driver's side motor a 6Y1959801 part number, or the later 6Q1959801F. Former has two connectors, latter just one. Either way, the 'key angle' signal from driver's door lock goes via the window motor, on its way to the central locking control unit. This is so that the windows can be triggered to close when locking (by holding the key turned), or opened when unlocking. I suspect the rear door fault is unrelated to the window problems.