Breezy_Pete

Try removing fuse 43 overnight and see if battery is happier for it. Just a hunch. If you haven't already, it's a good idea to take a photo of the cabin fusebox, to help with correctly refitting any fuses that may get pulled during fault finding. The image below shows a generic layout for (RHD) mk1 Fabia, but there are quite a few variations depending on engine type and fitted equipment, so there may well be more gaps than shown, leading to it being easy to forget where things were even if you only take one fuse out at a time.

What year is the car, please?

If you switch on the A/C with bonnet open you can probably observe directly which way they spin, can't you?

Trivial, ignore it.

That's a screened from partslink24, a subscription parts website.

It's Bosch themselves that seem to supply the wrong filter with the correct equivalent part number on the box and/or the filter, have a look through that thread in the mk2 Fabia area. You probably have done a little damage; any time the oil pressure is low enough to make the engine noisy is damage occurring, and if the pressure switch is triggering a warning that is worrying, but wait until you have a new, correct filter fitted before worrying too much.

Don't bother with Bosch filters, just look at that thread where they cause so much trouble. Buy genuine from Skoda for just a few pounds more. Much cheaper than buying a replacement engine/car

Part number seems correct as shown here, and the description matches the position you want.

That is a shame. I would have thought "four out of five good threads is probably plenty" 😁

@davegr I'm with you.

Above accelerator pedal on RHD car. Lower dash trim has to come out for access on mk1. Much easier to scan than to eyeball physically.

Only if it was specified at time of order from factory, I expect.

With your scan tool, if you can, scan module 09 'central electrics' or even better, look at live data from it, particularly voltages on terminal 15 and terminal 30.

On the strut turret right beside ECU, just above ABS module.

Basically this, but it works even better if you push the connector (as if plugging it in rather than trying to remove), while undoing the latch. Once you hear the latch click open, then pull connector off

Wildly unlikely to be anything to do with the engine ECU, in my opinion. Wish I had an idea what it might be instead.

Engine ECU of both BMD and BME engine codes of 1.2 HTP in 2007 have no permanent 12V power connection, so disconnecting battery and/or the ECU connectors will have no more effect than simply switching the car off and removing ignition key does.

Have you cleared the fault codes and found that they come back? May just be stored/historical.

Hi Paul, I'll message you anyway, but you may be able to sort this for yourself, if you are feeling a little brave. As you've found, disassembling some of these more recent types of motor carries a risk of brush damage if things don't move quite in the right sequence, but since you have one to play with and not much to lose... The rotational direction for a given electrical input can often be changed on designs similar to these, because the steel rotor housing has a pair of permanent magnets stuck to its inside top and bottom faces. If the housing has no keying that prevents it being spun 180° relative to the rest of the assembly; if you do so the magnetic field direction will be opposite, and rotation reversed/corrected. Seat appear to use a different mounting arrangement, with software changes relative to the Skoda versions that make them incompatible, despite same hardware part number. Same thing happens with Skoda versus VW variants of same part number in some previous generations of motors, on the 6Y...part numbers the housings can be spun to correct things, but the next ones, 6Q1... (and 6R0.. I think) are keyed, preventing this fix without metal or plastic alterations. I'm not familiar with this generation of motors so I can't really advise on whether this is possible or not; the previous couple of versions did have keyed metalwork so that it could only fit on one way. Just go very gently with everything if you do decide to get involved.

@hymek said in his last post that the shoes and cylinders were only replaced a month ago. Perhaps something that would have been sensible to mention in the opening post?

That would be on a LHD car, the default for workshop instructions.

Isn't it a bayonet fitting same as the cap, so twist anticlockwise to remove filler neck?

Yes, give it a try.

5Q0 411 105 HE RRP is £128 + VAT each. Wonder what Skoda pay their suppliers for them?

Yep, message me the VIN. 🙂