Breezy_Pete

Convenience module totally uninvolved, in any active sense. What year is the car? I'm unconvinced that your driver's side module is working at all, but I may be misremembering whether or not passenger module can work from its own switch regardless. How far are you from Highworth/Swindon?

Something doesn't stack up here.

Hmm. Check fuse 11 if you haven't already. And test convenience opening/closing via key in driver's door lock.

Something that works briefly after an intervention such as a blast of heat doesn't necessarily demonstrate something that will keep working. Passenger window will work independently from its own switch for a short time after each time it's powered up/reconnected. Not evidence of comms from driver's module.

Replace the resonator, not the relay.

From a Skoda dealership parts department. Should only cost a couple of quid. Will need to look up by reg/VIN as there's lots of variants.

Yes, it's shown as normally closed, push-to-break on wiring diagram.

You have to wonder about the extent of "extreme truck tailgating" necessary in this record.

Can your OBD device view live data? If so, try to see whether the clutch pedal switch is operational. Don't suppose it has cruise control? That would stop working if the clutch switch failed.

Thanks for the mentions guys. I don't have any experience of mk2 Octy window/door modules, but always willing to try. @mk2ian56 can you post photos of the items you've been trying, including the original item if poss?

I believe your compressor is a clutchless design, which has variable displacement controlled by a proportional solenoid valve. This has been the case from day one of Fabia production, back in the previous millenium. A small proportion of refrigerant circulates all time the engine is running, even when the A/C system is switched off. So the need to run it regularly to keep things lubed etc has no basis in reality. It's also not true that refrigerant will need to be removed and replaced for a pressure sensor change; there's a valve under the sensor that prevents significant loss during such a change. @Evolution13 is likely to have info about recommended spark plugs on a CTHE. I could tell you the suggested OE part number, but I doubt you'll be buying genuine Skoda items.

This was without removing anything, just looking to the right of the duct that goes from front of car. Highlighted connector in this copy

Can only just see the body of the connector, but too much other stuff in the way of seeing wires emerging from back of it, sadly.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/2/260/260041 Linked page shows two part number options for the pressure sensor (item 14) depending on date of manufacture. I'd be mildly sceptical about their diagnosis, because just low refrigerant level will give a fault code for G65, which is that sensor. For spark plug info, we'd need to know your engine code. If you can find that, you can probably look up the relevant part numbers yourself by going up and down levels on that same website.

If you remove some of the air ducting between front of car and airbox, you may have enough view downwards to see the reverse light switch on the front face of gearbox, low down, and particularly the wiring exiting from its connector. Not sure. Might have to ease the odd coolant hose aside. Might be able to spot a broken, dangling wire that way, rather than having to get under the car.

Check to see if any of the connector pins are bent or have broken when reconnecting.

Glad I could help. 🙂

Plenty of grease on the thread of the insertion tool too.

Doubt it.

I can confirm that CHHB engine does not have a MAF.

Rear wash is powered from same wires and motor as front wash, just with different polarity. So it will not be affected by removal of rear wiper fuse.

Looks to be in the right position, I think.

I think Mk1 Octy had mirror heating paired with HRW. Fabia from Mk1 has it independent. Be aware if testing that it doesn't work with just ignition on; engine needs to be running.

You will probably find that it comes as part of a larger assembly of pipes and valves, the part number for which is likely to be on the rectangular box with the QR code on it. Consider doing a slightly better repair with self-amalgamating tape and save yourself a lot of money.

Or maybe just try a genuine replacement tank (not cheap though).