Breezy_Pete

Roughly speaking a litre of petrol or diesel combusted in an engine results in a litre of liquid water being created. Mostly this remains in vapour phase and exits the exhaust unnoticed, but in cold ambient conditions and if the whole exhaust system doesn't get hot regularly, it becomes apparent as condensed liquid water.

Unlikely, I think. Petrol models tend not to use external EGR any more, using valve overlap instead to do it within. The fact that the car is used gently (and lots of short journeys??) may mean that condensation from combustion is tending to build up in the exhaust system. This then becomes apparent and is removed as liquid water or steam by more vigorous gas flow when driven harder. No coolant loss = no problem really.

I don't think there is one. The fresh air blower is powered by a control unit J126, which receives a permanent 12V supply. That in turn is controlled by a LIN data connection.

@skomaz , yes, good summary of what I hope will occur if it goes well. Risks include the tensioner running out of adjustment length, I guess. I will be asking more from it if I try this. It would indeed be interesting to hear Tech1e's thoughts on this, thanks Lee. Think he might be a bit too well trained and bodge-averse to like the idea though. 🙂

And some string tied through the rag in case that falls in? 😆

Yes, good shout. Also to catch old sealant cleaned off after removal of top cover. 👍

Been watching lots of chain-change videos on YouTube, and had an idea during one this evening. Bodgery warning, look away if you are inflexible of thought or attitude, please. Background is the chain elongation fault mentioned above, and a 165k mile engine that actually runs pretty nicely and quietly after the first few seconds from cold start. Chain tensioner was replaced at least 6 months back, with new genuine. Reluctant to invest a full chain kit and all of the associated labour, effort and time, on what might not have a lot of life for other reasons. Both crank and cam sprockets are floating, unkeyed fits on their respective shafts. Crank one is a tight interference fit that goes nowhere easily. Cam sprocket may be accessed relatively easily by removing the top, plastic, section of cover (which has a slight leak anyway). Rotationally, it's fixed only by the friction associated with tension of the screw. I own the locking tools for crankshaft and camshaft. What if... ... I set the engine to TDC (or as near as poss. with the elongation that supposedly exists) with the two locking tools. Loosen off the tensioner to give a bit more slack in the chain. Counterhold and loosen the cam sprocket and replace screw loosely (with new one). Avoid dropping chain down the hole. Re-tighten the tensioner; ensure both locking tools now set crank/cam correlation correctly. Torque and angle tighten new cam sprocket screw. Remove locking tools, turn engine through 1 turn of cam sprocket, test that both locking tools now indicate ideal timing. Refit top plastic cover carefully and cure slight oil leak. Does that make any sense, to anyone? 😁 Seems like a plan that might have a fair degree of risk, but potentially sort out the elongation effect on timing, temporarily at least, with very little time, effort or parts. Mad? Cunning?

I missed this post last month, are you still looking for help? I would expect the suffix letter to matter, it may be the only difference in the part numbers of several different-sized TBs for different engines. Looking at partslink24, a 2013 Roomster CBZA engine appears to require part number 03F 133 062 with no suffix. This is not showing as having been superseded by any other part number. I would not expect any versions with a suffix to be identical. I think these are generally quite reliable, so I would consider using a secondhand genuine part.

Chain stretch will tend to reduce torque at lower revs and increase it higher up the band, as far as I could work out from a little research yesterday. I have a chain elongation fault code that keeps popping up (without any dash lights) which is, I think, saying there's nearly 6 degrees of mis-timing on the camshaft. This seems a lot, and google seems to suggest the above consequences for cam retardation, which I think will be the effect of such stretch. Also, any play in the turbo actuator system can be expected to mess up the precision of turbo control, surely not in a way that increases responsiveness, I'd guess.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ Or skoda-parts.com

Instructions for checking internal hose below. Passenger side. (LHD shown, I expect, though diagram makes little sense to me as a non-owner). Mirror everything.

Expansion tank level looking unchanged, and a moderate 'pschutt' of pressure release when opened this morning. Chain elongation fault code had returned since last cleared. 1 Fault Found: 18723 - Chain Elongation P150D 00 [01101101] - - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 266043 km Date: 2029.14.24 Time: 12:08:37 Engine speed: 2531.00 /min Normed load value: 28.6 % Vehicle speed: 103 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 C Intake air temperature: 20 C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.913 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Timing deviation after chain replacement: intake bank 1: 1.56 Timing deviation after other repairs: intake bank 1: 0.00 Timing deviation: current value intake bank 1: 5.93 Chain elongation: no. of valid initial values: intake bank 1: 5 Readiness: 0000 0100 Think I might acquire a spare engine and work on it to be ready for a quickish transplant if required. If only I had plenty of space. ☹️ I have acquired the chain repair kit 03F198158B at what seems like a bargain price of <£120 from a local dealership. Includes chain, cam and crank sprockets, guide rails, tensioner and all screws and bolts; but now unsure if it would be a poor investment of time and effort to use this on the current engine. Anyone know what, if anything is different in the complete CBZB engine for an automatic versus a manual transmission car? My favourite, low-mileage complete one currently on ebay is from an auto. Edit: researching the above question, flywheel is different, but tends to be un-included in spare engines I've seen. Then some bits of the breather system seem different, but not a lot else.

I think only one of these will fit, it needs to match the manufacturer of the original system. Even if you look up with VIN filtering in a genuine parts catalogue like partslink24, you get a comment "Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary". If you would like me to try to look up the part number in case it is possible, tell me the VIN. I think you can establish if the system you have is Denso or Valeo by looking at the label on the blower motor, if there are no more accessible labels than that one. The substance in the header tank of "mit silikat'-marked tanks is silicates, not silica, and the function is to replenish levels of these chemicals that are present in the coolant when made, but get depleted during use in the engine, by chemical reactions. Not to absorb moisture, which is plentiful and desirable in coolant.

Thanks for the interest. Yes and no. Seems not to be as worrying as first feared, but I don't yet understand why. Main driver took it on a reasonably long trip (3hrs each way) this week, and checking of level in expansion tank prior to return journey suggested no loss of coolant or pressure-related change in level. Will have time at the weekend to look at current level and to open cap and listen for any unexpected pressure. Have temporarily stopped actively looking for the right spare engine on ebay. 😀

MOT manual is publicly available here: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles If anyone can find a clause anywhere in that which says "any warning light is a reason for failure", please share it. A lot of nonsense gets repeated online about such things, along with the old chestnut "if it's fitted it must work". This is also not true. If that manual doesn't mention something specifically, then that thing is not part of the test, and therefore cannot be a reason for failure. If you look at MOT fails, they are always listed against the specific (sub)clause in that test manual linked.

Oh that's ideal (especially if it was me, as they're just down the road). That's just a Skoda dealership with an online parts selling operation. Have used them once or twice, no problems.

This lot may have stock of new genuine, at quite a price. Check availability with them: Volkswagen / Skoda Vacuum Pipe With Non-Return Valve 6Q2612041AK - LLLParts

Yeah, that's properly broken. Is there enough length to trim away that end and reconnect further back? (would need careful heating of plastic).

I'll aim to get some info up this evening or at the weekend. Circuit is rather simple within the BCM, at least with regard to the power outputs to wiper motor. Input from permanent 12V fuse in on one pin, a relay switches this when wiping is requested through to another relay. The second relay switches between normal and high speed wiping, each having its own pin and wire to the wiper motor. The first relay, if contacts stick/weld closed, will result in wipers going continuously until fuse is removed. Main difference from earlier BCM versions is that these two relays are separate tiny ones here, versus a single, slightly larger, dual relay in previous versions.

@AlaricT did you get this solved? I have now identified the relay that I believe must be responsible in this version of BCM, and have some on order which should be with me very soon.

Normal. The servo has to let cabin air into its rear chamber when pedal is pressed, to provide the assistance. I suspect your attention to it has just been heightened by anxiety about brake function.

Maybe every 100k. Or with a clutch change whenever that may be needed.

No, not at that mileage. Complete waste of time and money (and oil).

Brim = 1st click on nozzle.

Yep. Brim to brim with zeroing of trip meter each time can't help giving the best accuracy that's easily obtainable.