Breezy_Pete

What year is the car?

Have you checked for wire breakage within the bellows where wiring enters the tailgate?

No relays in the circuit. Would need to know when in 2010 it was built to show you the right circuit, but I don't think things changed a lot. I'll message you to start a conversation within which you could share your VIN. That would allow me to find the car's build date and so which circuit is most appropriate. Basically there's an ignition switched 12V and an earth to two of the four connections to the rear wiper. Then there's a pair of inputs that control what it does, wash/wipe or continuous intermittent wiping. These inputs also control the screen washer pump motor, so it would be diagnostically useful to know whether front and rear screen washing are working as expected, or not. The circuit board within the rear wiper motor can show a variety of faults, from burnt out components to cracked solder joints.

I could fix your windows with a repair to the circuitboard of driver's side front motor module. Location of Portugal makes it trickier though. Message me if you want to figure something out.

Might be the anti-shudder valve stuck in closed position. May be able to see, or get phone camera to look, with right angle hose removed.

OK, well cam sensor and charge pressure and EGR solenoid valves are all fed from that fuse 28 10-amper on blue/black wires, so check that the fuse isn't loose, and doesn't have corrosion on its contact blades. Also check your air pipework coming towards engine from airbox. Wiring diagrams show a heater element N79 described as "Optional equipement" [sic] which is a little heater element to prevent freezing of a breather pathway, I believe. These have been known to cause partial or full short circuits. If you find a 2-way connector with blue/black and brown wires, in that area, disconnect it and see if that restores feeds to other items. Take a photo of the location if unsure.

Some info on where to find it here: Engine code and why it's useful to know - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA

Do you happen to know whether your 1.9 is engine code BSW, or BLS? Both were available from May 2009 on, but have different wiring in places.

Have you checked fuse 28 (10 Amp rated)?

Pop the bonnet and look for leaking fuel. No smoking!

It looks a bit like a fuel tank. Expect possible fault codes to do with fuel or EVAP system.

Yeah, well that last reply of mine is some well out of date crap! 😆 Circuit for high level brake light in your car looks like this: I think you said that if you stick 12V up pin 7 of the 10-way it works well, so I have to speculate that either the BCM isn't giving the right output on pin 9 of T73c, or there's something wrong with the wire between there and the 10-way connector on the left in luggage compartment.

I'll check later, but I believe it's usual for all brake lights to be parallel connected off the brake light switch output.

@qwackers98 Please share the VIN with me so that I can look up best wiring info for you. I'll start a private message conversation with you for this purpose. At first glance, the fuse for the brake light switch is no. 13 in under-bonnet fuse box, 7.5A rated.

Yes, worth a look at passenger side too. Wiring diagrams refer to G179 being driver's side, but the connector the wires go through on the schematic is described as "T28a 28-pin connector, on the left A-pillar" which would clearly make sense for a LHD car, but not for a RHD. It could be that the wiring diagrams are just wrong for RHD cars, or it could be that G179 and G180, (its passenger side counterpart) actually do stay in left and right doors irrespective of LHD/RHD. Wire colours from G179 are shown as green going to pin 15 of A-pillar connector and brown going to pin 16. For G180 these are red and brown respectively. It would be handy to get confirmation of what colours you see in those positions on nearside and offside of a RHD vehicle. Pinout of connector shown here, viewed on mating face. The fact that they are at opposite, extreme ends of the long connector perhaps adds to the likelihood of strain and breakage.

Check for broken wires in bellows between A-pillar and driver's door.

Either, as long as it meets the 507 00 spec.

Here's the little vid showing how to get these apart without damage. Dead easy when you know how, but miss out the little 'push' at your peril: 6Q1...F disassembly.mp4

Oh, well if the driver's side motor is still there, sell it to me for a few quid, I can fix em. 😁

Pity, but a car that won't start isn't a lot of use. Could be worth your while removing the drivers side window motor and selling separately, before scrapping. Should be worth decent money. If the windows work, that is!

The VW/SK info is there on the part number label. Generally best to go by the label rather than sellers' descriptions, hardly anyone really understands the interchangeability, or lack of, amongst these units. I'll message you shortly, and I may make a little 10 or 20 second video showing how to disassemble these units without damage.

I wouldn't worry about a big of sludge in a dead-end like this on an engine of this age. Fix the leak and keep fresh oil in it going forward. May be worth checking all breather hoses for blockages, as poor crankcase ventilation tends to increase the likelihood of oil leaks.

Diagnostics won't see these motor modules since they only have (LIN) data connection to one another, not to any central control units. The 6Q1959801F units can fail in the same way as the preceeding 6Y... series units from facelift mk1 and 2007 mk2 Fabias, as well as a few new ways. Beware - unlike the 6Y modules, it's quite easy to cause irreparable mechanical damage to these 6Q...F variants just by taking them apart with insufficient care. After unclipping the connector adapter, and removing the four screws, it is essential to 'help' the circuitboard to come out with the main motor chunk by levering gently against the board-mounted connector as the shaft is extracted. Failing to do so will tend to drag bits apart and motor brushes may get damaged or completely ejected. Not much to see if you did disassemble though, so not really worth attempting. Secondhand units on ebay can be found at prices competitive with repair, but be alert to the fact that the same base part number 6Q1959801F is used also on some VW models, where they are mounted differently. Compensatory software differences mean that Skoda and VW ones aren't functionally interchangeable, despite physically fitting. Up and down will be reversed relative to switch inputs if mixed heritage parts are fitted. VW parts will have a number under the 6Q1959801F that begins VW240 (Polo) or VW750 (T5). Skoda versions have SK250 (mk2 Fabia) or SK258 (Roomster). Get the correct one if going for second-hand. New are still available, not sure on latest prices. Are you anywhere near Highworth/ Swindon?

If a new one was fitted recently and you don't know for sure that it was a correct match to the VW group number I posted above, I wonder if you got the wrong type installed.

Was a new crank sensor fitted recently, or not since 2 years ago?