Breezy_Pete

Dashboard gauges are 'frigged' to display a reassuring temperature over a range of real temperatures. Feature not fault.

First of those is the VAG part number, other is Bosch part number.

Fair enough, it was a good point Aldfort raised though, new cars with different fuel from old ones presents a risk. Easier to misfuel petrol into a diesel than t'other way round though, due to different nozzle diameter.

Oh yeah, wonder if it was petrol though.

Any refuelling occur?

Tempting to imagine that this problem was why the previous owner offloaded it. Might indicate potential for a frustrating time if retained.

Since some of the lock module signals connect to/through the window motor module, and could be corrupted by faults within that, see what happens if you unplug the window motor. If lock activity calms down, consider acquiring and test-fitting a replacement window motor module. I have a suitable item available, let me know if you might like it to try.

Extremely common. Good practice to take off the battery negative clamp before such work, yes.

Check for broken wires inside the bellows at the A-pillar.

I think a manual 1.4/16v will have an 02T family box. From memory it's a 13mm nut that holds the change lever down on its splined post. (May be bigger, memory not really trustworthy). It only fits in one orientation too, again from memory, so need need to mark alignment.

Even if you can loosen both of the 18mm-head bolts, you'll need to remove the gearbox linkage top bit to get the top bolt out, I think. So you may as well remove that first to improve access.

18mm is correct, I believe, for the long starter motor bolt heads. The one that has the M8 stud coming out of it will need a ring spanner or deep socket. You've checked that the non-crank isn't the usual broken, or nearly broken solenoid wire?

5Q0907643D, superseded by 5Q0907643E (£88.80 + VAT at Skoda).

It's normal and I doubt it's alterable. Won't flatten the battery unless the brake pedal is pushed continuously.

Standard valve.

I wasn't asking what it was, I was showing you what Alasdair meant, but which you thought would be soldered to, or part of the PCB. So look for it in the fob and see whether it looks damaged or absent.

Message me with the VIN if you would like me to check via the car data (this evening).

I think the part Alasdair is referring to is this, which has no electrical connection to anything in the fob. Known as ID48, "immobiliser chip", or "bugger, that was fragile" depending on the circumstances. I'm not sure if a 2017 keyfob still has such a device.

The current requirement to have posted 20 times before outbound personal messaging becomes available to new members is a bit of an obstacle in this situation.

Photo quality is too poor to even see if that's a cam belt or an auxiliary belt.

This reg has a BUD engine. Belt kit (not inc WP) is part number 036198119C. Part number for genuine water pump is 036121008M.

Maybe. Or your board heating has unintentionally moved one or more components, causing normal inputs to no longer work within driver's side module.

I can send you a working driver's side module as an experiment, subject to a suitable, returnable deposit.

Passenger side not working from driver's door control though? If driver's module (and its switchpack) was alive, but a problem with its relay, it would still be able to work the passenger window.

Convenience module totally uninvolved, in any active sense. What year is the car? I'm unconvinced that your driver's side module is working at all, but I may be misremembering whether or not passenger module can work from its own switch regardless. How far are you from Highworth/Swindon?