Breezy_Pete

I wonder what made the pop noise that you reported? I assumed you were going to find a very blown fuse somewhere to account for that.

Sounds like one of the only solutions TBH if you've drilled the existing threads right out. Maybe get some help with it from someone experienced in such repairs? Available space for the bolt head and tool to fit it may be an issue.

What size drill did you use?

They aren't Torx (6-point) , they are XZN/triple square (12-point) heads. M10 size XZN bit required, despite the thread size being M8. See here for how to find out by measurement what size XZN bit you need for any XZN bolt head you might come across on these cars: triplesquaretable.pdf

A good clean to remove any dust/debris from rubber seal may be all that's needed.

Take a photo of the fusebox, then inspect the fuses one at a time, making sure they go back in the right positions if intact, as per your photo. #44 is for front wipers.

Pity, but thanks for letting me know.

Sounds right.

OK, I think the glow plug control module is probably near the battery too, have you found that? Follow wires back from the plugs, via a 14-way connection near where the battery earths onto the body, I think.

Why all the missing fixings? The wire you've taken off, and all the missing nuts on the plate behind the fuses will need to be there for things to work right.

I think the little green plastic bits may hinge open to give you a view of the metal strips?

Can you stick a photo up? Got a multimeter?

Have you checked the strip fuses on top of the battery?

True for traditional alts, not so simple with newer set-ups where the alternator is controlled by external electronics.

Measure 'turns ratio' (crank pulley diameter/alt pulley diameter) then pick an engine rpm after a quick browse here: Experimental study on the effect of alternator speed to the car charging system (matec-conferences.org) The situation is made less predictable by the fact that you will presumably have start/stop and a battery management module that will 'tinker' with the alternator output voltage according to its whim, which isn't likely to prioritise battery lifetime.

You could research what an appropriate voltage value of the diode might be for this application and probably get them for about 50p for the pair from the likes of RS/Farnell. The motors are (nominal) 12V driven, I expect (based on earlier cars with separate central convenience module). A transil/transorb to suit an approx 14.5V supply would seem to be the badger.

Could do with someone who can read Russian to see if the photographed text refers to that red symbol, other than that it looks to be mainly a case of finding the correct three wires to string the diodes between. The pin numbers they come from at the lock module are 1, brown wire; 2, blue/yellow wire; 3, violet/yellow. Note that there's also a yellow/blue wire to potentially confuse matters, and another brown wire from pin 6. Typing that has made me realise that the red symbol is probably there to warn "not this brown wire, it's the one from pin 1 you need to connect the diodes to". The three correct wires are slightly thicker than the others, which should help to spot them.

Will you give it a go yourself? I expect a Skoda dealer will sell you the two diodes. Not sure what the red symbol on the earth connections is all about.

Here you go, probably enough to work with: MLab.org.ua • View topic - VW Jetta 5 - not clear glitch with central locking (mlab-org-ua.translate.goog) Seems to be suppressing spikes from the lock motors.

The repair kit appears to be a protection diode ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode with flying leads coming off it https://izap24.kz/tovar/14806306_fragment-svyazki-5j0971658-skoda-novaya-original.html You can probably view the TPI via erWin Skoda, but you'd have to pay a small fee for access. There may be someone on here who knows what it says though. I suppose it just tells you where you graft in that/those.

Screwdriver like you did upthread?

I thought there was a step where you did have to do that but it's all hazy memories from when I did the OEM radio remote upgrade on my spare Polo.

Does the programming you've been trying involve turning a key in the door lock?

Just move the wire across and try it. It'll be fine.

Does the broken one say 50 anywhere? Check with both halves removed, both side.