Breezy_Pete

Should give fault code/light.

I haven't tried these measurements myself by the way, but since each side's three bulbs are all in parallel, and cold incandescent bulb filaments have quite low resistances, the Ohm numbers are likely to be quite small. They should be noticeably higher than when the meter probes are shorted together, to each other though. Let us know what numbers you get, please. 🙂

Hi again Jackieeeeeee, according to fuse descriptions, fuse 49 is just for the indicators, and the output wires to left and right indicator bulb trios are on pins 14 and 15 of the same connector, black/white wire for left, black/green for right. I don't know what happens inside the BCM, but on mk1 Fabia there is a single integrated circuit (chip) that deals with the indicator outputs. I suspect the problem is external but it might not be. What I would recommend is doing a pair of resistance measurements with a multimeter. With the white connector unplugged from the BCM mark the positions of pins 14, 15 and 38, then set meter to measure Ohms, on the lowest range it has. Measure between pin 14 and 38 (an earth connection), record reading. Measure between 15 and 38, record reading. If one reading is significantly lower than the other it suggests a short-circuit to earth on that side's wiring to the bulbs. If they are identical and non-zero, the problem may be inside the BCM. This image shows the pin numbering on the BCM connectors, pin 17 of the white connector is red-ringed due to using the same picture for some other purpose.

Here, isn't it? Often the only sensor on an engine with a single wire going to it.

Not sure to be honest, I just searched for CAYC oil pressure switch, thinking that was likely to be your engine code. That video came up. Have you looked there and failed to spot it?

It would be best to start your own thread about this in the mk2 Fabia subforum. It's not ideal to go off at such tangent within this guide to stereo wiring. If you have any trouble doing so, let me or a moderator know and we will try to assist, I'm sure.

What's the rest of the part number you're referring to? They should be well placed to know what's what, to be fair.

Pin 13 of the 73-pin white connector that goes onto the BCM. Approximately above clutch pedal in LHD cars that have a clutch pedal.

Ah, old eyes, small smileys on phone screen...

Looks like it would be easy to me. U-shaped cutout bit of cardboard with e.g 288mm between inner faces of the u is another easily made measurer.

@Tech1e is probably your best bet if you live anywhere near him. Worcester area if I remember rightly.

The official circuits aren't organised in that way. There's no such page(s) as 'door loom'. You'd have to look up the separate parts of the loom by function, then piece them all together, which would take a fair old while.

Does the engine coolant shortage warning work? (unplug it to check). They share an earth connection.

"3 miles from home and just suddenly lost power" sounds an unlikely way for the timing chain to have slipped. An engine stall, cold start or start-up after the car has rolled a little in gear with engine off would seem much more likely scenarios for that IMO.

Another encouraging thing, they're a better engine than the 6-valve in my opinion. Scary thought.

There are 2 different 3-cylinder HTP engines one with single camshaft, 6 valves, narrow head and spark plugs that stick out forwards in front of the head. The other with twin cams 12 valves and central, vertical spark plugs. This sounds encouraging.

Either keep using it until one of the warning lights is triggered, or set yourself up with VCDS Lite and scan it now. Fault codes sometimes don't trigger a warning light until they've happened a few times. Is it a 6-valve 54bhp 1.2, or a 12-valve 64bhp? Last serviced when? Last MOT tested when?

Is 'eclipse' the same warning light as I described?

See if the emissions warning light (side view of engine outline) comes on when ignition is first turned on. It's not unheard of for people to mask these if they threaten a successful sale...

No coding possible.

If the car didn't previously have this function you will need to change the instrument cluster coding to enable it.

I think so, yes. Bear in mind that there is probably more than one type of light though. See if there's a part number sticker visible anywhere on the back end of it and try to match that.

Could this be a transition from open-circuit to closed-circuit fuelling control? Might be worth trying a new coolant temperature sensor in case this is making the transition happen too early or too late or something?

Swapping the window motor over may be the only easy bit of the job...😆

Look for air leaks such as brake servo hose splits or PCV pipe breakages. I think the latter are 'to be expected, sooner or later' on the 1.2 TSI.