Breezy_Pete

Have you checked that the compressor shaft is actually turning, as well as the pulley? Everything you see when you look at the end of the pulley should all be rotating. Fan action won't be triggered until refrigerant pressure exceeds 9 bar.

Nope. that would be because they aren't connected to any central databuses (CAN), only to each other with 1-wire LIN bus. Invisible to diagnostics. The keyfob is much, much more vulnerable to damage than the CCM unit's receiver section.

Yep Yes

Maybe also search for NOS whole driveshafts of the correct part number on ebay? I picked a genuine one up for £25 delivered once.

The relevant cabin fuses appear to be 9 and 22, 5 Amp and 7.5 Amp respectively, ignition and permanent 12V feeds to the HVAC module. Can your scanner look at live data? Like G65 high pressure sensor output? or 'shutoff codes'? I'm pretty sure VCDS lite will work on your car, which can be up and running very cheaply if you have a windows laptop.

Whenever anyone talks about a battery clamp that can't be tightened enough, I always like to mention the taper of the battery posts, cos I don't think everyone is aware of it.

Photo of the negative clamp? Possibly just needs the screw loosening off lots, then the thing being pushed further down the taper of the battery post?

Sounds like the unlock button of the fob is your problem. Not sure how easy it would be to replace the switch that the button clicks.

Thanks for sharing this info. I look forward to hearing of more success soon. 🙂

Yeah that does suggest WM and wire path OK, at that time, but they (WMs) can show intermittent (mis)behaviour. Not sure what's going on at this point.

I'm not certain that this is a safe conclusion. There's a key turned signal that goes via WM and that wire, but there's also another microswitch or two in the lock module whose status is directly monitored by CCU with a wire that doesn't go via WM. The latter may be getting through OK, but the former not reliably. I'd be having a look in the bellows if it were mine.

I'll have to have a think about it, but I would think keyfob problem rather than receiver/central convenience unit problem, TBH. You can get keyfobs pretty cheap on ebay.

I guess you could have a broken wire in the door bellows. So the key position info is getting to the WM, but not to the central convenience unit? It's a thin black/blue wire from pin 8 of the WM.

Have you tried this today, i.e. very recently? The status of the key position microswitches in the lock go via the WM. As you're just down the road, maybe pop up one evening with door card off to try a known good WM and see if that helps the situation?

Might also be worth acquiring another fob* to try. I helped a fella recently who'd been told by VW themselves that his RF fob was working correctly, only to find that when I sent him a spare I had, the problem he was having went away. *just the electronics half, not the immo chip + physical key bit. Oh, and also make sure the battery contacts are clean, to ensure it's operating at full power.

There's stuff about key pairing in this thread on clubpolo https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/204921-guide-how-to-install-oem-remote-central-locking-in-a-polo-9n-with-original-parts/?do=findComment&comment=1812092 I think you'd need to get another (lock) key cut to be able to do it though. It sounds a bit like the primary (recent) failure may be with the window motor module though. When you use the key to unlock drivers door, do the other doors unlock, or not?

Not sure whether you have a CUS or a CUT code engine (what is the engine number on the V5c?), but this listing for a CUS engine block shows some stamped info on the first and second photos. SKODA FABIA VW AUDI 1.4TDI CUS CUSB ENGINE BLOCK 04B103024T 04B103011T 2014-2017 | eBay This one is upside down, and I think of the gearbox end of the engine. Will be a shedload of stuff in the way of seeing this area, no doubt:

Not too pricey then. Could probably get genuine for only a couple of quid a litre more, judging by this, but probably just repackaged same stuff: Volkswagen / Audi / Skoda Transmission Fluid G070726A2 - LLLParts

Item 2A by the looks of it: gearbox, complete; 6-speed manual transmission - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com) (ignore the misleading page title)

@DariusFabiaestate please let me know if you're interested in selling me the old broken loom if you still have it.

I think the module that controls most or all of those functions is the one above the accelerator pedal (on RHD cars). Might be worth taking that out and having a look inside if possible. See if anything looks cooked.

Good advice ^ It's probably likely to last longer without intrusive 'surgery' than with, I'd say.

If you do replace the loom/harness rather than repairing, please consider selling me the broken one you remove, instead of binning it. PM me when the time comes. 🙂

Good chance you're right with that.

Skoda Workshop Manuals > Octavia Mk2 > Drive unit > 2.0/110; 147 kW FSI Engine > Engine lubrication > Parts of the lubrication system - Part 2 > Testing oil pressure and oil pressure switch F1 > Checking oil pressure and 1-pin oil pressure switch (workshop-manuals.com) Some test info with some pressure numbers here This is with precondition of fully warmed up engine. Seems to relate to previous generation of engines, but doubt the numbers will have changed much. In case link can't be seen, key phrase appears to be: " – Start the engine and increase the engine speed. Given an oil pressure of 0.12...0.16 MPa (1.2...1.6 bar) the LED must light up, otherwise replace the oil pressure switch. – Increase engine speed further. At 2000 rpm and 80°C oil temperature, the oil pressure should be 0.27...0.45 MPa (2.7...4.5 bar). At a higher engine speed the oil pressure must not be greater than 0.7 MPa (7.0 bar). If the measurement is less than the specification: – Check the strainer in the oil suction pipe ( → Chapter, Pos. 9) for contamination."