Breezy_Pete

That's your problem, move the unused one that's next to it (no wire) into its place, checking that it says 50 on it somewhere, it looks the same width at its narrowest point so probably same value. Edit, or just undo the one nut and move the wire across onto number 6 if it'll reach, that should be easier.

Yep, in my experience sensor 1 is always closer to the engine's exhaust manifold than sensor 2.

Not a bad idea at all.

Doesn't look like a walk in the park, I must admit. First thing to do is try to get some phonecam photos maybe, just to see if there's anything obvious like a busted wire near the connector cable entry? To get the sensor out, it looks like the lower two screws holding the coolant flange and steel bracket to the head need to come out, then move the bracket aside. That'll give you access to the single screw holding the sensor in (obscured from view behind the bracket in above pics).

Ah no, that's the version for the non-tsi engines. The one you need looks like this: 03f919501a: Search Result | eBay

Is that steel bracket obscuring the view and confusing you about what you've got? What does the one you've been sold look like?

Looks like you need 03F919501A if yours is a CBZB engine like the one in the photo.

No, the ebay listing is for the whole engine, seems like a drastic solution to your problem! 😁 I'll find the part number for you in a sec.

I expect this is it here (it's almost always easier to look round an engine via ebay listings' photos):

It appears to refer to a coolant pump, judging by this search result (post #124). VCDS - How To Guides - MK3 Leon 5F | SEATCUPRA.NET I'd say it will be safe to drive.

Check for 12V at the black/blue wire going into the 6-way connector at the window motor when ignition is on. If present, that confirms fuse and wire. Mirror switch shares same feed from fuse.

Check cabin fuse 11, it may well be blown.

Do you have the emissions printout from the test? There are a few ways it can be 'only just OK', it might be useful to know (all) the actual numbers.

Check in between the pleats to make sure they're not full of dust, but first impression is that's not too old/blocked.

You'll know when they need replacing, because one will perforate and start to leak. Until then, you're wasting your time and money, I think. Many other things may get in the way of the car's eternity before that.

Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite Download kkl cable: Search Result | eBay Anything else I can do for you today. 😘

Have you checked cabin fuse number 7 (5 Amp)? And strip fuse number 5 (50 amp) above the battery? For the price of about 10 litres of diesel you could equip yourself with the necessary KKL cable and download freeware VCDS Lite, if you have a windows laptop.

It is wideband on a 2005 BKY. I'm not sure if it's possible for the following to be relevant, but when was the condition of the engine air filter last checked?

What fault code?

I guess a Karoq is quite heavy? Being modern and high?

I'm sure you meant to type 10 miles per litre there, which is 16km.

If the car has central locking, I think the part number you need is 5J0 839 016. Lots of cross referenced pattern parts here: 5J0 839 016 Door lock OEM VW, AUDI, SKODA, SEAT (autodoc.co.uk) Maybe pick your favourite from amongst those, copy that manufacturers part number into ebay and see what comes up from within UK.

I'm not sure that your car will have a G260 sensor either from a quick glance at parts info.

Gonna take a wild stab in the dark that your car doesn't have electric height adjustable rear seats, therefore they've made a mistake. Check with them again whether they meant to say G260, or N280.

Don't block the entry point where it goes into the airbox though. Can't remember the arrangement on the MPI, but on airboxes that have a thermostat for incoming air source, they tend to default to 'all warm' if/when that thermostat fails. If you block that entry you'll find the car goes even worse!