Breezy_Pete

Have just replied about that on your other thread.

If pin 16 of the A-pillar side of the door connection goes to chassis earth/battery negative, then that is OK. It meets with another earth wire somewhere within the loom behind the dash, and ends up at an earth bolt on the transmission tunnel.

Exposed copper on an earth/ground wire shouldn't generally be any problem, unless there's exposed copper on another wire that could short to it. On its own, if it shorts to metalwork, well that's earthed anyway, so shouldn't matter. But bring me up to speed on the general situation,please; you were talking about fitting another loom last time we chatted, has that happened? If this is another loom, is it the same part number including letters at the end?

I wasn't suggesting that he was wrong, just checking what exactly he'd tried.

You tried it? without opening door?

If you don't open the door, I think I'd expect the window controls to remain active for 10 minutes after engine off. Check whether that's true on your car.

Yes, my mistake, thanks. 100 other things got in the way of me doing the experiment. I think I misunderstood what you had initially tried here. Earlier when you talked about whether the gearbox speed sensor was doing speedo or not on your car, I thought maybe you'd disconnected it and found that your speedo still worked (despite ABS being nobbled), but odometer now didn't (or something). You never touched the gearbox sensor though, right? Both our cars (my 53 plate Polo, her 05 plate Fabia) just have the dummy in place of gearbox sensor, so must use ABS info.

Seems likely that internal resistance is the parameter that makes a difference. Affects the voltage available when under full load. Unloaded voltage doesn't tell you about this.

Might have a play about on my Polo later, though it has no gearbox speed sensor.

1991 Mk2 Golf, 1.6 carb. Consistently did high 40s mpg on my A-road commute of the time, never failed to get me where I wanted to go. Owned for quite a few happy years. Needed a bit of understanding to get and keep it running well, which led me to www-based car repair, clubgti.com, the inspirational 'rubjonny' and was the (late) start of my interest in car mending around 2000.

Is it just key in door central locking or radio remote too? Does the lights left on buzzer work if you open the driver's door with lights on and keys out of ignition? Pre- or post-facelift car? This makes a difference to the type of window motor modules fitted and whether the key-turned signal from the lock does or doesn't go through it.

The strip fuse, or..? I think there are two others, fuse 7 in engine bay and fuse 25 in cabin. Not sure what 'subdivison of labour' there is, but at a guess (based on the fault description 'return flow pump" that comes when strip fuse cracks, I reckon it might be as follows: 40A strip fuse - return flow pump power 30A blade fuse - all the 'brain' electronics and flow control solenoids 5A cabin (ignition only) fuse - probably just a 'wake up, he's going somewhere' signal. In other words, parts of the ABS system may still be alive and working, except the ability to actually reduce the brake effort via the pump (the noticeable one).

'Fraid I can't remember whether dipstick was in or out when that photo was taken. Vaguest of recollections that it stuck out a bit beyond, but not sure.

OK, so a mk2 Fabia, but same applies. Don't think I can assist any further.

J285 is cluster.

What year is the car? As I said, rpm data gets to cluster by CAN; VCU has CAN connections to every other module that uses CAN.

To test the stepper motor that drives the rpm needle you could maybe swap the motors between speedo and tacho, I have a feeling they are the same.

If you have the onboard supply control unit (vcu?) you should be able to talk to that with VCDS and do what Nige suggested.

Good thinking Nige.

Info about rpm will come by CAN messaging from engine ECU, I expect.

Did you ever drop the sump of your AUB?

Well I distinctly recall headbutting the end of the one in my BKY engine while under the car with sump off, and thinking, "better not stick that in an eye..." Just found a pic:

The top end of the dipstick has a seal against the top of the tube, I think. The air above the oil in the tube will be hot during engine operation. After shutdown it will cool and contract, pulling the oil level within the tube up as it does so. Experiment to try: tomorrow morning lift the dipstick just a few cm to break the seal to equalise any air pressure difference, don't bother looking at level. Put the dipstick fully down again. Come back an hour later and see if 'false level' is or is not now showing. Just a hypothesis, not tried that experiment myself.

I'll still go with mk3. Mildly confusing though. Škoda Octavia - Wikipedia

Skoda/VW say you should check it warm, so I wouldn't worry about it.