Breezy_Pete

BMN, on the autoscan. 🙂

If only I knew whether that's G62 or the G83 radiator outlet temp sensor. I think the latter would normally be nearer the rad, but don't know on your engine.

Whereabouts was the sensor you changed, near radiator or on engine?

I don't have the equivalent document for mk2, but for mk1 Fabia there are two different types of bolt used M8 or M10 depending on engine I think. Each has its own tightening info: 2 - Screw ❑ replace after each removal ❑ initially tighten to 10 Nm, subsequently tighten crosswise to final torque: M10 screw: 50 Nm + 45° M8 screw: 20 Nm + 180° There are more variations still if the car has the 'tripod' design inner CV, not sure which engines/gearboxes use those? Have you already refitted these screws, or not? What size thread are they?

Skoda workshop manual will say replace, and it's certainly best practice, but you'll probably be OK reusing if none are damaged. What torque plus angle numbers are you going by?

Cold Cranking Amps, measured versus specced.

Nice work. Good spot on the E33, I was hoping someone would find out or know what the official part was rated. Pretty sure the next one down in voltage would do too e.g. STMicroelectronics 1.5KE30CA, Bi-Directional TVS Diode, 1500W, 2-Pin DO-201 | RS Components (rs-online.com)

It'll be fine to get to somewhere to do a brief pressure bleed on each side.

Different volumes of combustion chambers in their respective heads?

If so, try tightening the nearest two headbolts a little?

Are we somewhere near to the (only) pressurised oil feed from block up to head in your photo? Marked red in the gasket pic here:

Pics no help, there'll be a label on it, probably facing the radiator. This is the page I linked, in case you don't want to click on that:

Should be as per item 1 here: a/c compressor; connecting and mounting parts for... - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)

Insufficient evidence. You need to visually inspect, and feel with fingertips any areas that you can't get eyes on. This is an extreme example of what can happen:

Checking the brake servo vacuum hose for splits at the ends of the hard plastic sections is always worth doing on any VW group car, in my experience.

Just scanned it again. No faults have returned. 🙂 Definitely an odd one.

Bit of a strange one in our AZQ-engined 2005 Fabia on Sunday. On the way to an important appointment in Northampton, but had left plenty of time in case of traffic on A34/M40/A43. Cruising north on the A34 at 55ish tucked reasonably close behind a truck; there was a strong following wind from the South. EPC light appeared together with noticeable but not dramatic power loss. Seemed smooth just not as much go for that particular accelerator position. Hindsight says I guess that was Limp mode kicking in? First thought "Oh crap, this had better be something I can fix at the roadside; expensive appointment to miss". Pulled into a handy Parking refuge just a few hundred metres further up and hoicked the handheld scantool out of the glovebox. Left engine running, and it was not sounding or feeling happy, almost misfire-like but with the benefit of hindsight from shortly afterwards, probably the throttle plate hunting around cyclically. 3 DTCs reported as follows 17950 16490 17579 In the heat of the moment I couldn't work out how to clear them as I don't use that scantool often. None of the codes seemed familiar, so was keen to look them up in the little handbook that came with the tool, also in the glovebox. One after another they were all absent from the book! "Get googling please hon, while I have a look around under the bonnet" said I, as I switched off ignition and released the bonnet. Nothing leapt out at me as amiss at a glance, and soon I was getting info about the 1st of the codes 17950 Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Implausible Signal. Told her I thought that was maybe one of the (2) accelerator pedal position sensors but she soon corrected my bad memory while reading about it and said "no, it's the throttle position not pedal position". I should've got that from the word actuator. So while she moved onto the next code I unplugged the TB connector and had a quick look at the wiring locally and the contacts, all of which were fine. Plugged it back in. 16490 Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal Had a brief attempt at eyeballing the MAP sensor but soon gave up. 17579 Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal was the last google result. Restarted the engine, smooth idle, no EPC light; thought "right, let's just drive, quick as we reasonably can to close in on N'hampton". Totally uneventful onward journey, no symptoms, no lights, got there in good time. Same on return journey later on. Scanned with VCDS at home, same three codes still there, which wasn't a surprise as I hadn't cleared them at the roadside. Cleared them with the laptop. Took the car to work next day, no misbehaviour on the way, no codes when scanned on arrival. Logged MVB62 on the way home, which is the pairs of throttle position and pedal position sensors. No glitches at all apparent when processed gently in excel (sum of two throttle sensors should = 100%; one of accelerator position sensors always twice as much as other). Been a couple more days of short but uneventful journeys since, will scan again this evening with VCDS if I remember, but a bit mystified at this point. Only thing I vaguely wonder is that maybe the combination of strong following wind, mild tailgating of truck and low cruising speed may have got the engine ECU looking at manifold pressure versus throttle position numbers that were out of plausibility range?? Seems a bit far-fetched that nothing similar has ever happened to that ECU before.

You probably only cleaned the intake air temperature sensor, which is usually the only visible/accessible part of this combined sensor. Compressed air would probably damage the actual pressure sensor if you managed to direct any into it. Can't help you with access to change sensor, but do you have enough to get the connector off? (thinking in terms of checking wiring).

Got any adhesive-lined heatshrink sleeving that'll fit over that pipe?

There's only one pipe that goes to the servo, I think?

You might be able to check with a bit of string...😁 If you can get a piece between rack and subframe, long enough that you can hold both ends from above, then 'floss' it along past the point where the dogbone bolt goes through the subframe. If it catches or won't pass that point, chances are the wrong bolt is in there and has dented the underside of the rack tube. No idea if that's really feasible in practice, but I know it's almost impossible to see the area from any angle, though probably not too tricky to get a phonecam pic if working underneath the car.

Has either yours or @ScottB832's car had a new clutch or other gearbox-off job done recently, BTW?

I've got a spare pump somewhere that I acquired some time back. It's an unknown quantity, and I can't remember what part number without looking at it, but you could try it if you want, for elimination purposes. Could drag an angle sensor out of my spare car too if useful. Have a look (log while driving) at the main permanent feed voltages in measuring block 01, see if the non-working correlates with that being low and the working situations with it being 14V+.

The current is determined by what loads are on it. If the voltage isn't dipping, it is succeeding in meeting whatever is being demanded from it at any given time. If the voltage at the PAS module remains decent all the time, then the PAS problem isn't power related. VCDS has a measuring block (1st field of MVB01, module 44) for the permanent voltage feed from the strip fuse. It also tells you about the current drawn by the pump moment by moment, the on/off status, the turn rate sensor reading in another measuring block, etc. Well worth a look and a log of this and the other measuring blocks of module 44 - steering assist - if you have the necessary cheap kit to use.

E-box is the big box full of fuses and relays in the engine bay.