Breezy_Pete

Don't suppose you still have the original module either?

Doubt it would be different enough to notice. Do you have the coding from the old pump available on a VCDS scan?

That sounds really very unlikely. The PAS system is pretty self-contained. Angle rate sensor plugs straight into PAS module; permanent power wiring; an ignition-on wire and a pair of CAN data lines is the totality of the system electrically.

VAG 3T2971120CN wiring set for door Škoda genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com) Not showing as having been superseded by any other number in the above link. Also skoda-parts.com page for that number shows a bunch of equivalent numbers that doesn't include a suffix DF variant: Electrical Wiring Installation Bundle for the Door Škoda 3T2971120CN (skoda-parts.com) Why do you think it should be DF? Parts catalogue for 2012 Superb doesn't seem to offer DF either? There are a couple of other options for RHD cars though, CJ and CS, not sure what's different between those two. single parts whitch are not included with the par... - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com)

VCDS lite can be used on a 2007 mk2. Get a suitable cable for £10-20 (e.g. this one) and download the free software from ross-tech.com onto a laptop. Minor faff getting it talking to car then really good diagnostic capabilities. Can you ask the garage that said "throttle body sensor" exactly what fault code number they saw, and exactly what they replaced?

If the engine ECU thinks the alternator is heavily loaded, it might increase idle rpm to help. How old is the car battery? Can you inspect the signal wiring between alternator (terminal DF) and engine ECU? Unplug the two-way connector from the alternator and measure volts relative to battery negative on each contact of the loom plug, with ignition/contact switched on. This should prove neither wire is broken, if you see voltage on both.

Knock sensor is on rear of engine block under inlet manifold. Oil level/temperature is close to lower end of dipstick tube I think.

Might be this one, but I couldn't be sure as I don't know how many with very similar patterns there may be. SKODA LOCKING WHEEL NUT BOLT KEY MASTER KEY REMOVER - LETTER N 772 Code | eBay

To investigate, there is no need to completely remove the oil filler cap, just turn it to the point where it can be removed, then pull upwards gently. If there's a little resistance to lifting, that would indicate slight negative pressure in the engine at idle revs, which is as designed (on petrol engines at least). If there's strong negative pressure resisting removal there's probably something wrong, please let us know what the garage find, if anything.

Strong winds make a big difference, always worth taking notice on a single journey computation. Whole tank brim to brim averages are much more reliable.

Self-impose a 60mph top speed limit and you'll save a fair bit of fuel.

If the 'cooked' BCM is heading for the bin after you've fixed the issue, would you look into what it would cost to send to the UK please @Jackieeeeeee? I'd be curious to do a post-mortem on it, to see what burnt. It might even be repairable; if so I could send it back fixed, perhaps.

See if the brake lights work with fuse 49 not fitted. After you've repaired the various cut wires!

I'm not sure if there will be any configuration or key matching required when replacing it. I guess you're buying a second-hand one? Make sure it is exactly the same part number including any letters at the end. Do you have any VCDS scans that may have the current coding recorded on?

Oh dear!

Brake lights are fed from pin 16, try measuring 16 to 38.

Does it look like the BCM can be removed from the car and inspected internally quite easily?

OK, see if the readings become the same as each other if you disconnect both rear light clusters (if that is easy to do)? If they now read the same, the problem is at the rear right. If the readings are still different, reconnect the rear clusters and try with both fronts disconnected.

OK, that suggests there is a short circuit somewhere on the right side wiring, I'm assuming that the negative sign in front of the 1.2 Ohm is accidental? Most likely would be water ingress into one of the connectors that go onto the bulb holders, but obviously other possibilities exist.

Just to talk you through the diagram. A permanent 12V supply is connected to one side of Fuse 49, the other side goes to the power input for the indicators on the BCM. With white connector unplugged this power no longer goes to the BCM. You say the fuse doesn't blow in this case, which means that red/white wire is probably not short circuited between fuse and BCM. The round things with crosses in are the individual indicator bulbs, Front, Side, Rear on each side of car. You probably don't, as I said, the Ohms number should be low (but not zero) from either pin 14 to 38, or pin 15 to 38, what are those two numbers please?

Did you measure from 14 to 38, and 15 to 38 on the contacts of the loom connector, not the BCM itself, with white connector not connected to BCM? A low reading is to be expected in both cases.

This is the circuit as far as I can see.

Just eating but yes, you are missing lots. I'll sketch you a little diagram soon.

I think you can safely go quite a bit higher, but I will not give an exact number. I usually go to 2.3bar on fronts and a little more on rears on our similar cars.

The ratios for a turbo diesel's gearbox probably won't suit the 3-pot petrol I fear, to the point of being very awkward to drive in the lower gears. Gut feeling. I doubt the bolts holding bell-housing to engine will match up either. Careful scrutiny of photos of ebay gearboxes of each type may shed some light on this. I very much doubt you'd see a £30pcm saving either. What tyre pressures do you use?