Breezy_Pete

Skoda-parts.com seem to be suggesting that Elring are an OE supplier: Valve Stem Seal Elring 036109675A (skoda-parts.com)

It could be worse, check this bargain out, spotted while searching ebay for 036109675A after finding that genuine ones from LLL parts are £6+ each: x8 Valve Stem Seal Ring Inlet Exhaust FOR VW POLO 86bhp IV 1.4 02-06 9N AXU | eBay Don't see his hand being bitten off for those 8! 🤣

Will be slightly easier access without the white frame in place, and you'll want to get that off anyway to refit the rubber to it properly before refitting both together. Connector should be removable with white frame in place though.

A view of the door connectors with loom side all unplugged, white frame removed. Yellow arrow shows where the latch locks into from the white loom connector. Door removal is pretty easy once all four connectors and door check strap are removed, by the way, if it might be useful.

Knowing how the car's wiring has been messed with, definitely.

Problem with lock wiring is that it goes through the metal inner carrier panel, no access to unplug from lock without unrivetting that panel. You could 'pin-stab' the motor wires as close as poss to the door lock, on the accessible side of that panel, and buzz through to the white connector, taping up after?

There's a latch in the middle of the bottom edge of the white loom connector that needs pushing upwards, then grab all of that connectors wires and gently easy out.

What's that mini-blade fuse doing between two blade fuses bottom right, position 45 I think, for radio?! Fuse 11, where the top bodge wire goes is needed for correct function of electric mirrors and electric windows. Ignition switched. Looks like that wire may be on the supply side of the fuse, so unprotected by it. Not easy to see from that pic exactly where the other bodge wire is going, but if into the right hand side of one of those blade fuses in the right hand column that's a permanent live I think, so a dangerous fire-risk bodge, as is the whole area.

Bit hard to see in that pic, but is that the violet/yellow going into the white connector? Was its blue/yellow neighbour definitely intact? Those are the motor drive wires. Did you unplug the white connector and check for corrosion on pins?

Which way round? My BBY is near silent, the BKY less so. Don't find the BBY at all slug-like, haven't had the BKY road legal so don't know. I had a very quick look at the first BKY wiring diagram for Fabia and it didn't leap out at me. Thought I might see a change to non-wideband lambda sensing from BBY to BKY, or similar (as happened from AZQ to BME in the 1.2s), but didn't. Can have a more in-depth look later.

I would think so. May even be worth trying it with your existing ECU for simplicity, if all the peripherals are getting swapped across it shouldn't really see any difference, at a guess?

I should think it would work OK, especially if you bought and fitted its engine ECU too*. Can't remember if your BKY is with or without EGR valve? BBY will have one. * after sidestepping any immo issues resulting from the swap

Here's a little annotated image of the wires I think it would be great to check from 29-way connector to 8-way lock connector. The ones in the pink box possibly the most critical in terms of the lock mechanism telling the control electronics where it's at. Abbreviations from German colour names as follows ge = yellow, gr = grey, gn = green, li = lilac/purple, ws = white, br = brown, bl = blue The earth wire from pin 7 at the lock goes to pin 29, shown on previous page of diagrams.

Yes.

Do you have a multimeter you could use to test continuity/resistance of the wires from that connector to the lock connector? Will do you a little table of point to point pin numbers and wire colours a little later. It's going to be the first set of pin numbers I mentioned above, before doubts crept in. Will add in the lock end connector info.

Pinout diagrams:

Radiator fans will not be triggered into action if the compressor is not compressing the refrigerant due to a mechanical failure.

I doubt your car actually has a clutched system, so this observation may suggest that the correct diagnosis will be one of these failures:

Connector may not have wires in every positions, but there should be 29 possible wire placements. Not sure what the window motor looks like if you have the other version.

No, these would almost certainly be broken (if they are) within the rubber boot/bellows between door and a-pillar, so unclipping this at the a-pillar to be able to inspect is the way forward. The boot terminates wrapped around a white plastic frame at the pillar, and it's ideal if you can remove the boot with this white frame still attached to it. You certainly want to reattach it before refitting as it's dead easy to fit boot to frame when frame isn't inserted into the a-pillar, but bloody awkward to get on properly when it is. If that makes any sense at all! The frame is held in place against the metalwork with four plastic ramp catches, two on each vertical edge. in theory, squeezing front and back vertical edges simultaneously towards each other will release boot plus frame, but access is limited unless you have tiny hands. Image of catches on one side of frame:

6Y0 959 855 looks to be the passenger door window switch for mk1, the mk2 has a different part number.

Sounds as though you definitely need a replacement for the passenger side switch, not sure about drivers side yet. I doubt that mk2 Fabia ones will be drop-in replacements.

Look for broken wires between A-pillar and door, I think as a first step. Don't be surprised if you find a blue/yellow or violet/yellow one busted. They are the drive wires to the dc motor (not solenoid) within the lock. They go through the white connector pair at the a-pillar.

Sounds odd. First thing I would be tempted to do is check the part number of the motor module fitted on driver's side. Photo of the Skoda part number label would be ideal. It ought to be a 6Y2959802 with SK240DDRS as the bottom line of the label if original. If you can get a photo that includes the Temic part label too on the electronics housing, that would be good to see if the date codes match approximately, in case you have a hybridised thing.

On further scrutiny it seems I was being very hazy-sighted earlier. For the version with a 29-pin connector, yes door control unit is combined with window motor on the door. If you don't have that version, the lock module connects to a 23-way connector on what is known as "Central locking and anti-theft alarm system control unit", located behind dash panel. The wires going via a 10-way connector at the A-pillar.