Breezy_Pete

No, same stub axle for everyone, I would've said if it were different. See this page for example: rear axle beam with attachment parts - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com) Item 2

Anything that uses part number 6Q0501117, which is same for all Mk1 Fabia, all 9N/9N3 Polo and a host of others. See the 61 page compatibility listing here for example: Febi Rear Wheel Stub Axle Suspension Transmission Genuine OE Quality Replacement | eBay

That's why you drive differently according to the conditions, isn't it? Or is that a forgotten art?

Yep, that's him. Kevin Albert Williams, unfortunately his catchment area doesn't extend to Staffs where the OP is based. Clutch Replacement Service | Clutch Repair (williamsmobileclutch.co.uk) Not used him myself, and have no connection with him. Example of him on a 1.2 Polo, which will be a near identical job to the OP's car. h

You'd probably find yourself asking it the other way round if you did throw a bunch of money at 'shiny shiny'. "What was wrong with the manual system, this one just seems to do whatever it feels like, not what I want"

Probably doable for less than that, but not worth it. There simply aren't any significant benefits. I wouldn't want it if someone were to do it for nothing.

The guy's not surprised, he's upset. As would most of us be upon finding out that our daily driver was out of action until some hundreds of pounds is spent on it (unless DIYed). Wait for some more quotes, and watch some YouTube videos by Williams mobile clutch service to learn that it is very possible to do on a driveway. Done a couple myself.

Is there a part number for that bit on your invoice? Good on you for coming back with the solution to the problem. 👍

Why not try the experiment I suggested, no cost in that? I'll explain why I've suggested it once you tell me what happens, or doesn't.

See if the rev counter doesn't move when turning the engine on starter motor at a time before those 15 mins post-cutout, and does move at times which do lead to successful restart.

Trouble often is that the relevant PR code isn't on the sticker, especially front brakes.

VAG Codes (vag-codes.info) Link within link https://vag-codes.info/vag-option-codes A lot of the definitions are too vague to be useful alone,, but in the context of the pages of ETKA, they can pin down what's what via the 'data model' column where they appear.

If someone's talking about a resting voltage above 13V they are most likely dealing with an AGM battery, something that mk1 Fabias do not have. 1st chart is standard lead acid, 2nd as titled, AGM. Not sure if EFB is different again, but probably nearer AGM than conventional. Temperature has a small effect too, one or two charts available might have multiple columns showing this.

I'd be focussing on the crank sensor given those very healthy voltages. No harm in checking earths though, the one from starter motor to inner side of chassis leg is just as important as the main one from battery to chassis when it comes to cranking the engine. The starter end of it is quite exposed and subject to big temperature swings, so a good one to clean up. For crank sensor, check wiring isn't damaged near its connector, and check for water ingress inside connector before spending on replacement. You may need a tool you don't have, and access isn't totally straightforward, see here: '06 Fabia 1.9 vrs, crankshaft sensor fixing bolt. - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

If/when you repatriate the real fuel temp sensor, try to make sure it has the o-ring it originally had, not one that may have come with the ECP sensor. They may well be different materials for resistance to the different fluids.

@Jamie_B have you read the helpful private message that might have come from another member?

If you follow the flexible hose from your red circle up to the metal ones that cross the engine, you'll see it's the one nearest the front of the car and goes to the fuel filter, not the expansion tank.

Check the wire colours going into the connector, I can compare with wiring info. Photo of old sensor?

Unintended comic mis-spelling of dealerships!

They aren't massively expensive to buy new, genuine, so that might be the way to get an intact/complete/accurate pattern, albeit one that would need scanning somehow. There looks to be two different part numbers 5Q0615311D, or same with G at the end instead. I expect they are different to go with different disc sizes but not sure. There's also left/right part number diffs obviously, replace the last 1 with a 2 for RHS. e.g. Audi/Volkswagen Front Brake Disc Protection Plate Left N/S - Genuine Audi/Volkswagen 5Q0615311G - LLLParts approx £14 plus postage. This outlet tends to reflect RRP at dearerships reasonably closely. This page contains all the brake system info for 2015 octy LLLParts

Can you give an example of where this code was related to steering angle sensor. A brief googling I did just kept saying engine speed/crank sensor. That would make sense in the context of change in starting behaviour. For the charging system measure battery voltage before and after starting engine. Check to see if the battery light comes on with ignition. Report back with these two numbers and a yes/no please.

Bear in mind that the clutch release bearing is not rotating at any time except when the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the drive to the gearbox disengaged. In other words, if it was that, I'd expect you to only hear the noise when the clutch pedal was down, or on the way down/up. If I'm understanding your post correctly, your scenario is the opposite. More likely the bearing cassette at the far end of the gearbox I think, have a look at this and see if you recognise anything noise-wise:

Nice one. Looks like that stiff bit of convoluted conduit intended to protect those wires has had exactly the opposite effect at the point they exit from it!

@JamieB Judging by the location, that might be the fuel temperature sensor you've circled in the photo above?? Hope it's not in the bin, and your collection day today...

Pick a year, pick the 1Z version, keep digging down til you get where you need to be: LLLParts