Breezy_Pete

I meant Skodas, and should have been specific.

Was wondering the same.

Or just put the correct type of bulb back in...

Download the fifth pdf in the list you'll find here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/ It's the circuits for early Fabias. Relay info specific to your engine code is probably findable by searching the pdf for AQW. Other relays may be listed near the end with fuse info.

It's common knowledge that these looms frequently give trouble in mk2 Fabia and others with similar connector/boot type, and it's not too tricky to eyeball the wiring under the rubber boot for obvious breakages in the door hinge area. Measuring wires end to end with a multimeter to check continuity may add reassurance that the wiring is really intact, and potentially help to locate faults to more exact locations. For example, the door lock module. If all the wires are measured as reaching their destinations it may save unnecessary loom replacement, or confirm loom fault if they don't. The photos and tables here relate only to one particular variant of loom, with part number 5J0971120GK from 2012 (the letters at the end being not always simply a 'revision number' but may actually be the only difference in the part number of functionally different loom variants). Thanks go to @jps711 for permission to use this loom for photos and information gathering during repair. If anyone wishes for info on looms with different part numbers, I may be able to help find the differences, and would welcome any unwanted/broken looms that might be cluttering up anyone's garages/sheds since replacement. For each I might receive I'd do dedicated wiring tables, with cross-checking against circuit diagrams. It's not completely straightforward to find the info via the circuits, as they are grouped by functions (e.g. mirrors, windows, locking), not 'here's the wiring diagram of the whole drivers door' for example. This is the area that always contains the faults, due to a poor design where the loom just bends back and forth with door movement, rather than a twisting action as used on earlier cars, with a vertical dog-leg in the rubber boot. The photos and wiring tables are from the 'destination connectors' points of view. I strongly recommend using short pieces of solid wire to temporarily insert into connectors at each measurement point, as many mulitmeter probes are not sufficiently fine to go in far enough to make good contact. Double check that the meter hasn't 'gone to sleep' or otherwise malfunctioned any time you don't get a beep when expecting one, do this by shorting the two probes to each other. This is the pin numbering arrangement of the door disconnect connector, viewed on the mating face. Be aware that the rotating orange latch needs to be in the open position to disconnect and reconnect this from/to the A-pillar male counterpart. Attempting to refit with the latch in the wrong position will fail, and can cause pin damage, possibly. On to the nitty-gritty of the pinouts. All photos are as above, of the mating face of the connector, observe the housing features to ensure same orientation: Pin number at this connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Blk/yel 9/28 2 Wht/blu 6/8 at mirror conn 3 Brn 16/28 4 Gry/blu 8/28 5 Blk/blu 7/28 6 Wht/grn 11/28 7 Wht/blu 7/8 at mirror conn 8 No connection 9 Grn 12/28 10 Wht/grn 8/8 at mirror conn Pin number at mirror interconnect connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 No connection 2 No connection 3 No connection 4 Blk/red 13/28 5 Brn 16/28 6 2x Wht/blu 10/28 and mirror sw 2/10 7 Wht/blu mirror sw 7/10 8 Wht/grn mirror sw 10/10 Pin number at loudspeaker connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Brn/blu 22/28 2 No connection 3 Blu 21/28 4 No connection Pin number at Int monitor switch connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Blu 17/28 2 No connection 3 Red/blk 15/28 4 Brn/yel 18/28 Pin number at WM connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1-3 inclusive No connections 4 Grn/blk window sw 4/4 5 Gry/wht 5/28 6 Wht/blk window sw 3/ 4 7 Brn 16/28 8 Thick brn 24/28 9-15 inclusive No connections 16 Thick Red/wht 25/28 Pin number at window switch connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Brn 16/28 2 Gry/blu 8/28 3 Wht/blk 6/16 at Window Motor 4 Grn/blk 4/16 at WM Pin number at lock connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Brn 23/28 2 Blu/yel 1/28 3 Vio/yel 2/28 4 Grn/yel 3/28 5 Yel/brn 4/28 6 Brn 16/28 7 Yel/blu 6/28 8 No connection Please let me know if you find errors or omissions in the above, or if you know how to format it so the tables are alongside the photos! Cheers Pete

Yes, compare the photos in some ebay listings for replacements and you'll see that there are bits broken off/ missing on yours which aren't readily repairable. I wouldn't bother spending money on replacing it if I were in your position.

I doubt your car has wheel sensors? Isn't it the indirect system which uses the ABS sensors? I thought only very recent cars used anything else.

@Nick-w You don't seem to have understood the link I supplied. The way I read it, if you drill a suitably positioned hole on the inside of the door metalwork, you can get a Torx screwdriver through it onto this screw, which then allows you to unlock the door directly without electrical help.

Are you saying you drilled a hole, put a tool in the screwhead but still couldn't open it?

It's a bayonet type fitting, like a light bulb isn't it? Push in and twist through a small angle to lock in?

Yes, naturally aspirated 1.4 4 pot petrol, 160k miles. So vacuum in inlet manifold makes PCV system relatively easy to implement.

So on my car there is slight suction pulling the cap back down, resisting removal, at warm idle. Not sure how clearly this snippet shows it. 20220606_171215.mp4

Sounds like nonsense. I only have petrol engines to play with, but slight suction is what I know as normal, I'll take a vid when I get home if I remember. If you're lucky @J.R. might do the experiment on his 2.0 TDI and describe the outcome for you.

This may help, although Polo-based rather than Roomy, same principle may apply (see posts from 17th Feb>): Deadlock hack

Impressive, but burning through tankfulls of fuel just to show yourself how economical your car can be seems a tad ironic. Why not just measure day-to-day consumption while driving necessary journeys; surely more representative than some eco-marathon?

Pretty sure they'll all be there. At least two on page 1 for instance G01& L18. Press the + button, middle of header, to zoom in for easier reading.

That's only a few of them Lee, often missing handy ones like the front brake PR code. The full car data runs to a few pdf pages of codes, with brief definitions of each; much more comprehensive. A helpful dealership parts counter person may provide the car data pdf FOC if you ask nicely.

Measure with either a drill bit or calipers/rule to see what size it is: triplesquaretable.pdf

Take the car back to the dealership and ask if you can get the discs upgraded to double-glazed ones. Just for poops and giggles.

Use Fuchs 502 00 rated, 5w40. Mainly because of the childishly amusing mame.

Yes, pin 1 position empty.

I have no knowledge or experience of that engine, sorry.

It could simply be that someone has dismantled the instrument cluster for genuine reasons (to repair a fault), and put back that gauge needle in a wrong position. It can be hard to get them back perfectly right on clusters I've worked on. Worth checking that all the warning lights that you should see briefly at ignition on are present though. One reason for getting into clusters is to mask stubborn warning lights...

Well done.

I think the QMM bit is probably your gearbox code, but scouring the parts catalogue for CRMB engine coolant temperature sensors has drawn a bit of a blank so far. This page should have one as item 9, but your engine code isn't in those listed, oddly: LLLParts Thus far I haven't found a listing for a second sensor, despite looking in electronics and engine subsections. I wonder if @nige8021 may have more success, with his greater familiarity with diesel engines? This previous discussion suggests that I should have looked at wiring info instead of parts catalogue, and that you may be chasing unicorns looking for a sensor no.2: