Breezy_Pete

Cabin fuse number 1 is the ignition on feed, but is shared with other things, so would probably be obvious from other faults if bad. Check for 12V at the connector pin when ignition is on, though. CAN wiring is the orange/brown, orange/black pair at pins 1 and 2 of the 4-way which has the ignition 12V feed coming in on a black/yellow wire at pin 4. Wiring conns look like this, be careful with connector latches if unplugging, it's likely they are brittle and easily broken:

Yes, or even a (different) fuse potentially. There's an ignition on 12V feed to the PAS module that might prevent comms if that feed isn't reliable, and the CAN wiring pair will definitely prevent scan tool access if not intact. I'll have a look at wiring info now. Does the car have front fog lights? I ask because on my Polo that doesn't, you can remove the nearside plastic blank that goes where a fog light would be, and it gives you direct access to the connectors of the PAS module. Not sure whether a mk2 Fabia has a similar convenient option.

No problem.

Mouse over Pab's username to the left of his posts, and a pop-up will appear under your mouse pointer, at the bottom left of this pop-up will be a button called 'Message'. Click on this.

Never, probably.

1j0973081: Search Result | eBay I think.

Try this. I remember being surprised how far I had to open a clutch slave bleed nipple before anything emerged. That was with a pressure bleeder, but not sure why it would make any difference.

I was proposing to get it shipped to me, then post it to you. PM if interested.

There's an NGK/NTK one on ebay for £58, not sure if that's a good price?

Could I buy something here, you pay for it, I post it to you? Seems like it would only be about 5GBP to send something like that.

There's presumably one wire going to each plug on the loom you've bought, so connect two of them (any two) to each of the existing connections?

Not on a Fabia Lee, maybe you're thinking Felicia? Single two-wire sensor on Fabia read by engine ECU, forwards info by CAN to the Instrument cluster which then displays stuff on the gauge with its 'customer reassurance filtering' factored in. Very bad sensor data might be visible if the gauge doesn't ever get to an indicated 90°C, for example (iff the thermostat is OK). I wish I could help the OP, but we're drowning in symptoms and theories and not much clarity about what has/hasn't been tried and ruled out, I feel.

View this on computer, not phone, and click on the sideways arrows button in the far right column of the row containing 6U0 906 265E. All equivalent part numbers will appear in a pop-up. control unit for air-con. - Felicia(FEL) [EUROPA 2000 year] (7zap.com)

If you regularly park nose-down on a slope, try parking the other way round so any liquid water can run out of the exhaust with gravity. Not everyone realises that this condensed water does not come out of the air, it comes from the combustion process. The two main products of combustion are carbon dioxide and water. It's in invisible steam form when it exits the engine, but depending on exhaust design, length, mass and temperature, and the rate of flow and temperature of the gases at the tailpipe, a lot can be deposited in the exhaust system during short runs and may not evaporate away if the exhaust doesn't get hot enough for enough time. The amount of water created is surprising. I did a calculation many years ago that suggested it's in the order of magnitude of a litre of water per litre of fuel burnt.

If you unplug the 28 way connector at the driver's side A-pillar, and stick a continuity tester between pins 4 (brown/yellow wire) and pin 16 (brown wire) of the door loom connector, with door open you should see short-circuit between these, trace both wires in towards their destinations within the door if you don't see this. The brown/yellow wire should go to both pin 8 of the 8 way connector at the lock module, and pin 2 of the 16-way connector at the window motor module. The brown wire should go to both pin 7 at the lock module and pin 7 of the 16-way at the window motor. Close scrutiny of the a-pillar wiring with knowledge of wire colours and origins within the 28-way will probably suffice, at a guess.

Parts catalogue should have the answers: LLLParts

If you have the very first one, 7AA, your car has an immobiliser but no alarm system. Any other letter and the system is as described here:

See if there's a PR code on the build sticker (usually in/near spare wheel well) that begins 7A and then has another letter after the A.

The battery is not the problem. It never has been.

Yep, keep an eye on it over the next few days, if there's a significant drain, you'll see the resting voltage gradually drop day by day. Do you plan to just leave the alarm fuse out? I don't think there will be any downside to that, but can guide you to alternatives if you need. Not sure if mk2 is as easy, but on a mk1 it's remarkably easy to take the whole front door(s) off to improve access to the wiring loom. Just unplug the connector(s), undo one screw that holds the checkstay to the door, two nuts that hold the hinges together and lift off. Only thing to be aware of is the weight of the door, so an assistant is advisable, especially when re-fitting door to avoid scratching paintwork. One person lifts/holds in approximate position, other one aligns both hinges from up close.

An Australian Briskoda member made some logs of charging voltage and current, which may be of interest. The only such work I've come across. These were done on a car with start/stop switched off. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488268-brake-energy-recovery-how-does-it-work/?do=findComment&comment=5483973

Sounds like a very favourable diagnosis from a profit point of view, but an incredibly improbable one in reality. More likely a single broken wire between drivers door and a-pillar, or something similarly trivial. Don't even attempt to order anything before getting some second opinions! Lock module replacement can be quite a faff, not sure how bad on a Superb3. What year is the car? If it's only just out of warranty, and 4x lock hardware is being described as in need of replacement, that sounds very much like a case of 'not fit for purpose' whether or not they are actually really broken, so ought to qualify for considerable if not total goodwill cover.

Yep, having a 12V feed is no use if the return path to 0V is broken. I don't have circuits for mk3 Fabia, but usually the high-level brake light is simply in parallel with the other two electrically.

I guess the A/C was already empty? If not it is now. You can rotate the front off the car without disconnecting the A/C pipework from the condenser so that you get the same access without opening the refrigerant circuit. Well done for fixing it all though!

With regard to fuses, the other way in which the owners manual can mislead is by having a single diagram that is supposed to assist owners of both LHD and RHD vehicles, where there is often an actual mirroring or rotation of the fuse panel between the two variants.