Breezy_Pete

Extremely unlikely given that the beam pattern will be opposite, I would think.

The thing in the radiator is neither a thermostat, nor a temperature sensor. It's a thermoswitch. Terminology not crucial to function, but useful when trying to be understood clearly on a forum.

@Gizmo might be a possibility for a VCDS'ing if you two can communicate by PMs to come to a suitable arrangement?

Inlet mani was what I mentioned, and the inlet ports lead to the valves. The 1st video that JGrindel posted shows some cleaning done this way, as far as a quick glance showed me.

The battery symbol does extinguish once the engine is running, does it?

That fuse tray has a green cover over the individual fuse strips, obscuring visual inspection. Don't suppose it lifts/hinges up out of the way? I think it will be the far right one that is the PAS, so check for 12V on that crimp/nut that the thick red/black wire goes to, which will be absent if that fuse is completely bust now.

Unlikely that these would be able to interrogate/read the PAS module itself, VCDS/VCDS Lite is the type of thing you need. See if there's a member (or anyone you know) near you with either. On VCDS it's under the 'chassis' tab of module selection, module 44 'steering assist'. Or an autoscan will look at everything.

Check to see if the battery symbol lights up when you turn the ignition key to the position where lots of warning lights self-test. Report back with the result (yes/no), please.

Ah, maybe a lot of the soot comes via PCV system rather than EGR? Kinda glad I probably won't ever need to own a car with direct injection.

I thought recent engines did something more like 'exhaust gas retention' via valve timing tweakage, rather than recirculation. Exactly how a 1.0 TSI does it, I have no idea. Thinking about it some more, I guess even if it does done by retention, opening an inlet valve into a cylinder with deliberately retained exhaust gases is going to tend to make the back of the valve and exposed area of stem dirtier than if the exhaust stuff had moved on already.

Inlet manifold removal would give you some access, probably sufficient to remove gross contamination, but I would suggest that the 'at least every 50k miles' is a bad guestimate. There shouldn't be a lot of soot about in the intake of a modern petrol engine anyway. I doubt the 1.0tsi has external EGR?

Well played that man: Spare Wheel Attachment Screw Škoda 5G0803899 (skoda-parts.com)

Exactly.

Should be a lot cheaper than that from a dealership, or TPS if you can get served there. I use this site as a price guide, but not often for actually buying stuff cos their delivery can be waaaay slow, but see prices (which are close to RRP I think): Porsche / Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Hex Collared Bolt N10640301 - LLLParts

That one does look like it has been there a fairly long time, but if it were original it would only have the two central up/down rubber webs, not that X-shape.

Ah, not original. I wouldn't expect any trouble from that design, so maybe look elsewhere for any noises you're hearing (or aren't you?) Bit hard to tell from that photo, is that a crack in the top left rubber web?

The one labelled 'front bolt, M12' in my image of console plus wishbone. Access to stick penetrating fluid in is shown in my image of the console with old style bush. Anticipating your next question, the part number is N 10640301.

The key is to compress the rubber seal inside the thing to remove friction from the latch. As Nige says, this is accomplished by pushing the loom connector on to whatever it's plugged into prior to attempting to release the latch. Then listen for the click noise of the latch releasing before pulling the connector body other way to take the connector off. I like to use a flat blade screwdriver or similar, twisted/rotated, so that there is minimal risk of pulling too far and snapping the top of the latch release off. Here's a very short video of what I mean: 20210718_164741.mp4

Bear in mind that if the console bushes really have never been changed, you may have 'fun and games' with the front bolts being corroded into the consoles. Same also applies if they have been done in the past and these bolts re-used, which is a no-no for this very reason. Have you got any pics of the current bushes? Best taken from under the car looking forward at the rear end of them. This is what the OEM replacement (1K0407183A) x-style bush looks like from that angle: The original design (6Q0407183) has just two vertical rubber webs, one above, one below the hex hole, you can just about see in this pic:

No.

I'm not sure what the design is like on a mk1 Octy, but I'm pretty sure it's nothing like that on a mk1 Fabia?

Yep, Lite would do for the Fabia, but not the others.

Ah, the old goalpost shift, was expecting that. I created two of the same faults as the OP, by disconnecting the MAP sensor. These remained after reconnecting the sensor, and discoing the battery. I subsequently cleared them with VCDS. Would it have been better for me to change all the sensors?

What year is the Fabia? The freeware VCDS Lite will work up to March 2010 or thereabouts, from memory. Suitable cable for that is sub-20 quid. Other cars are probably more recent though?

Battery disconnect plus shorting terminal clamps together has no effect on fault codes stored in the engine ECU on my 2003 manufactured, BBY engined Polo. Just tried it for your benefit Sep. 😊 The OP may well be able to confirm or dispute this finding on his car if he tries the same today.