Breezy_Pete

You need what's called an XZN bit, probably in M8 size, but you could check the size by measuring: triplesquaretable.pdf

Be super-careful with your nut/bolt arrangement for the subframe end of the dogbone mount. The bit of bolt that comes through the captive/welded original nut comes very close to the steering rack tube. Steering racks are sometimes wrecked while doing gearbox/clutch work by people mixing up the bolts and putting a 65mm (gearbox to engine) one back in there instead of the 61mm long original. Those extra 4mm are enough to dent the rack tube when the bolt is tightened, destroying the rack.

Yep.

Fuse 9 or 11 in the group of blade fuses on the battery fuseholder, 5 Amp (red/violet wire coming off it). Changed position with build date some time in 2005 or 2006, can't remember exactly. It's one of the supplies to the fan control unit.

There's one other fuse you could check (will look up in a sec), but if the refrigerant is very low you won't get the compressor being ramped up I think, or even if it is, the pressure rise won't be enough to trigger the fan. Shorting thermoswitch connector contacts can be a way of checking radiator fan function independent of the A/C triggering. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503932-radiator-fan-relay-switch-de-pin/?do=findComment&comment=5659700 If you happen to have a UV torch you can have a look round the engine bay in low ambient light levels and maybe see leak sources if any dye has ever been added when topping up. I have one you could borrow, probably wouldn't cost too much to post. O-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit are candidates if there's no obvious condenser damage etc.

Check that the contacts that touch the battery are clean, they can corrode or get mucky enough to not make a good connection

Unless there was pressurised gas above the coolant, depressing its level. Take cap off, release excess gas, level rises, warning no longer registers?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497987-engine-code-and-why-its-useful-to-know/

Certainly worth a look.

Front calipers don't need their pistons turning to retract. Big G-clamp or one of those trigger action woodwork clamps should do it rather than a dedicated tool? Even strong hands should do it on such a young car. Pretty sure NSF should have a wear sensor on the inner pad? Is there a connector for one nearby?

Ah, I see.

🤞

I also remember having to cycle the ignition to clear a warning state, even after putting in a resistor that wouldn't trigger it.

I'm sure you're right, but I didn't want to suggest shorting the loom connector without having tried it myself on a similar car to the OP's without damaging anything.

It was just an idea. 🙂 Why do you post in such a big text size?

Maybe the compression of (one or more of) the cylinders is low, so it struggles to ignite the mixture when the engine metalwork is cold?

On the Mk1 Fabia/9N Polo platform, the level warning circuit can be tested by simulating the tank resistance to check the circuit and potentially see whether the problem is the tank or the measuring circuit. Working from memory, a 56k Ohm resistor plugged into the loom connector does not cause a warning state, a 62k Ohm resistor does. If something of the lower value or less still causes a warning, the problem is likely in the circuit (like a wire break), not the tank. Exact values may differ between models.

Just double-checking fuse location, this one here, right?

I know the oil pressure warning system takes rpm info into account so this may be why that is complaining. ABS module may also have a use for it so I'd suggest fixing that and seeing what happens.

When did you last count the number of hoses going to an expansion tank chaps?

VW group changed their classification not that long ago, so that oils for diesels and petrols are more segregated than previously Platinum 5W40 went from 502 00/ 505 00/ 505 01 to just 505 00/ 505 01. Don't know if what's in it changed at all though. I remember looking at the approved oil lists back when I first spotted this, znd there was just one oil left that was approved to all 3 of those specs. Not sure why the change, maybe just to further obfuscate and baffle potential DIYers about what oil they are actually supposed to use in their own cars.

Try it, but make sure you get it on video. Kid brother filming?

😁 Foooks This ebay listing says what Gaz was saying, though not exactly the same oil as opie's? FUCHS (QUANTUM PLATINUM) 5W-40 *FULLY SYNTHETIC**5L CUBE**OEM MANUFACTURER*(B-10 | eBay

OP's car is 2009, so I'll stick with the pin 2, white wire. Could maybe get the cluster out far enough to back-probe the wire/connector pin while everything still connected, and main beams on?

I'm looking at Fabia2 from 2006> What's that shot from?