Breezy_Pete

Sadly, you both live far away, so no danger of that. I think I'd like it if you were neighbours. 🙂

I'm hoping to use my plug-in electric chainsaw tomorrow. Guess I should try to pick a break in the rain?

If anyone is being put off the idea of using this service due to the 'downtime' or inconvenience of having to visit the car twice, once to remove the module, once a few days later to refit the repaired original, I may be able to offer a slightly different arrangement. An exchange system where part of the price is refundable on receipt of your original. You let me know you need a replacement/repair job, either by posting in this thread or private message. Include full car details (year/model/number of electric windows) please. If I have a repaired and fully functional unit suitable for your car, I'll let you know. The initial price will be higher than for a repair, but there will be a proportion of the price that will be refundable once I receive your original, non-working motor module in return. It will have to be that exact module (the original your car was built with), so I know which car it suits. You would pay up front, receive a working motor module in the post from me a couple of days later, swap that into your car and send me the original in the post. This way you can get in behind the door-card just the once, to remove original and fit replacement. £119 for this variant, with £60 of that as a refund to be returned to you once I have your original in hand. So final cost to you will be £59 plus your postage cost for the return. I think the added convenience of this for you, my customer, may be attractive? If I have your unit type available, it'll be already packaged ready to post, so I should be able to post it out the day you message me if it's before about 4pm and we can sort payment out promptly (mouse over my username on the left to get a pop-up including 'Message' option) .

Any of the four numbers next to "Škoda part number" on this page: EGR Valve TDI Wahler 038129637D (skoda-parts.com)

Thanks for the info xman, looks very easy to fit compared to the whole timing case removal that the HTP requires! Suffix D or F by the looks of it, from previous discussion of engine build date on page 3

@xman how big a job is tensioner swap on these, please?

I believe it's a much easier job on these than on the older HTPs etc.

Changing the chain tensioner seems like an excellent idea to me.

Check the fuse?

Don't forget screenwash!

Why not test the EGR diaphragm as suggested?

I'm well aware of the emissions scandal but have no idea of the relevance to this topic/car. There is indeed a 5V output from the engine ECU to a couple of sensors which might be described as a 5V reference, but that may be assumed not to be present when all the input voltages are removed by the various relays and ignition switch..

Modern memory tends to be non-volatile, so doesn't need permanent power feeds. I've no idea what you mean by that.

Only what it generates for its own uses externally and possibly internally. Both from the 12s. More likely 3V3 internally at a guess.

If you mean the engine ECU, I don't think this will be any different after a battery disconnect. All of the 12V feeds to it are either ignition switched, fuel-pump relay switched or ECU relay switched, so it is effectively deprived of all power each time the engine is switched off, until it is next switched on again.

Am I correctly interpreting this as "I checked/looked and it is an EFB battery"?

Disconnect and block the vacuum hose going to the EGR, and see if the performance issue goes away (as an experiment, not a permanent solution).

XZN sizes are bit odd, the 'M' number of the tool/head is not a 1:1 match with the M number of the metric thread size of the screw/bolt This document shows a couple of ways of measuring a given head pattern to see what size XZN tool will fit: http://www.metalnerd.com/content/assets/43/439614/Specialty_Bits_and_Drivers/triplesquaretable.pdf

Test whether the EGR diaphragm holds vacuum. Put a spare piece of vac hose on it, suck hard then block with tongue tip. See if it holds.

No idea, but I doubt it. VW group don't really go by oil 'weights' as such, they just have their own categories - 502 00, 504 00 etc. within each of which a (small) range of different conventional viscosity ratings can feature.

Ah, fair enough, I missed that. It looks to me like the chain mechanicals changed on/between 23/24th October 2011 so yours should comfortably be in the later category with updated chain/sprockets etc. Screenshot source: engine Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com)

I'm not great with super-recent cars and which is which (what are the 7th and 8th digit of your VIN?), but if I've navigated to the correct page here: LLLParts Then your battery will either be EFB if it's one of the first two part numbers (usually visible on the top surface) and AGM if it's the third one. Without looking at it, it may be hard to see such a part number, but I suspect the manual can be ignored without significant peril to you or the car.

It seems to me @Meridion that the most important part of @xman's post for you in the immediate term is to answer the question about the oil filter seal and make sure that's not your issue.

Good work @Papez.

Sorry, I'm not well informed on this, I just read the sticker for you. 😊