Breezy_Pete

So high efficiency, not much waste heat at idle etc. Temperatures are probably as expected at this time of year, unless you're in the southern hemisphere. If the engine thermostat is the factory-fitted original, it may be worth considering replacement but I'm not sure it would make any difference. You might be able to clarify what's going on with the coolant temperature using VCDS, or similar to get a number direct from the engine ECU, before the instrument cluster 'sanitises' it.

Need to know which of these throttle mentions are relating to the pedal under your right foot, and which are the bit in the engine bay that helps regulate EGR flow rates and clean engine shutdown. Seems to be some contradictory info early in the thread: This is the bit in the engine bay, is it, actual and commanded position?? The latter of these suggests the pedal is probably behaving itself, I think?

06L115562B I think, which superseded 06L115562 at some point Oil Filter 1.8TSI, 2.0TSI Škoda 06L115562B (skoda-parts.com)

Petrol or diesel engine?

Failure of the recirc function is extremely common, has it worked recently, do you think? A/C will only work if the cabin fan is operating, which can sometimes subtly not be the case if you usually run it at a low speed like 1, and the series resistor burns out. Try turning the speed up if this is the case until you definitely hear blower action. Not sure about the lighting weirdness What year is the car?

I'd say if the engine code starts with the letter A or B it's pre-EA189, if it starts with a C it'll be an EA189?

How many are/were showing? If you did need to change the sensor then that would be the logical time to do it, yes. But I would say the sensors tend to be far more reliable than the wiring that goes to them, from what I've read on here.

Correct.

Not used on any VW group car as far as I know. Yes, minimising oil ash accumulation by using the correct oil spec is vital, not sure to what degree that is the same as what you've said, because I haven't remembered what oil ash is chemically.

Thanks. Both switches are in the same item, the outer two thicker wires go to the normally open switch that does the three brake lights, with a (permanently 12V) fuse and the bulbs as the rest of the circuit, plus a connection between output of switch and engine ECU, possibly for bulb monitoring? The inner, thinner wires go to the normally closed switch (fed from a fuse with ignition switched 12V) that goes to the engine ECU as a direct 'pedal pressed' monitor.

Probably a wiring or connection issue with the oil level/temp sensor. Inspect rather than buy bits. It's in the bottom of the sump, wiring outside. And if this fault wasn't there before the battery change, just leave it for a few drive cycles and see if it sorts itself out without any action.

You won't find part numbers, but you will get all the PR codes necessary to spot the correct part numbers from ETKA. If either springs or shocks are original they'll have painted colour dots on springs, and paper labels on shocks, which can identify them for free.

Download.

Yep. Can get the car data from the vehicle specific info tab with VIN, then any number of SSPs and repair info pdfs from the individual vehicle info tab to make it worth your euros.

Shocks look different for both front and rear for standard versus sports, e.g. for front see suspension; shock absorbers - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com) (suffix BH or BJ on standard car) and suspension; shock absorbers; for vehicles with spo... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com) suffix BL for sports? Similar situation on rear.

I guess you're aware that you can get the full list yourself via erWin? Cost; 7 euros plus tax.

I would be checking for broken wires in the door bellows on passenger side. If nothing is found I would repair or replace the door lock on that side. Probably something like this: 20200910_155143.mp4

Nasty rusty disc!

Yes but when PipH asked you what your engine code is he meant 'engine code'; the only precise way of knowing which engine type we are talking about. Different engine types may have different EGR set-ups, so finding out what we/you are dealing with is quite handy information. I fear that fuel cleaners and other varieties of snake oil will not unblock a sooted-up valve.

Diesel will be available for many years yet, worry about replacements when you need to.

Yes, 17mm fits a number of gearboxes' fill and drain plugs, 14mm probably some others.

There are actually two switches in there in the same package, maybe the one that doesn't do the bulbs was the problem. I'm not aware of any way that a mechanical switch can make bulbs blow, more likely just age. What part number is the old one, please @Albie10, or the new one you bought if the other is already in a bin?

Engine code is not the same thing as fault code. Your engine code is the letters in front of the engine number on your V5c ownership certificate, also often on a barcode sticker on the upper cambelt cover. Is the vacuum solenoid you mean maybe item 26 here: exhaust gas recirculation - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) ? Not heard of trouble with that, and heard about lots of trouble with the EGR itself, but you never know..

Since petrol went to very low-sulphur formulations to make catalytic converters survive, exhausts don't rot from the inside out like they used to.

That may be related to the fault light then, but wait and see what fault codes show. Unusual place to get a hole/leak, I think. Flexi section in the front pipe would be much more common.