Breezy_Pete

Euro5 diesels got a bad reputation for NOx emissions for some reason... NOx is a problem for city-living/working people's health, CO2 isn't. I suspect that is what this decision was made on.

Battery drain could be linked, if the module is getting wrong inputs and so not shutting down fully when it should. I might be able to tell you which wire might be the only one causing the problem, if you want? Is it the 2010 car or the the 2012?

Fair enough. Hope they get one to you quicker than forecast.

LEDs are semiconductors, aren't they?

Blame VW-group for their design and materials choice. Spider is innocent, I feel. Any symptoms yet?

Dunno, how far do they come through the steel wheels? 18mm? Bear in mind that when you have the right seat on the bolt it will go further in.

You'll need some taper/conical seat bolts with the same thread size as the factory bolts then. M12X1,5X26

Sorry, can't see well enough in those images. Does the surface that the bolts will seat onto look rounded or conical/flat? Got a link to where you bought them from, or manufacturer/distributor webpage?

I thought it was a simple question, but let me elaborate. Where do you think this air would be coming from, in order to be 'pushed around in the unit' by bleeding in some wrong order? As far as the info from @BerkCo reads to me, he/she is trying to change the brake fluid: "do this service myself", rather than to remove air from anywhere. therefore there is no air in the system at present, to be pushed around anywhere.

Which are the same bolts as for steel wheels if the alloy wheels are standard factory ones. So Skoda are unlikely to sell bolts that suit aftermarket wheels with different seating. As far as I know.

Do you have the wheels already?

^ Whaaaaat? Firstly they are bolts, not nuts. Secondly, the same steel bolts are used on all standard Citigo wheels whether those wheels are steel or aluminium. Thirdly, you need to know whether these Rial Milano rims have taper seats or radius seats like the standard wheels. If the former, you will indeed need matching bolts with a taper rather than radius, but they will not be made of aluminium. wheels, brakes Citigo (CIT) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com)

From where?

I expect the guy fitting them in the factory was drunk.

Order really doesn't matter much in my opinion.

Just the one flap, the one that changes position to block external air supply to the cabin fan when you select 'recirculation'. Top of shot here, in non-recirc position, cabin fan visible behind it. It turns through about 90 degrees on its left/right oriented axis to block that big rectangular hole when in recirc position, which reverse gear causes to happen automatically. This is on a mk1 but I'd be surprised if a mk3 was wildly different.

Try your local GSF.

Pain to send stuff back when it comes from Berlin or wherever autodoc ship from. Still got the old springs? Do they have a row of paint marks on them? If so, what is the colour sequence? Edit, guess not then. Got any photos that show the paint marks?

Welcome. Please give us a clue about which engine variant this is?

Surely if there's oil in the well whilst the plug is being extracted, that's where the oil on the plug came from? More likely valve cover seal leaking into the well?

Claims to need a special release tool VAS 6127/3, but I'm sure I've read someone on here talking about a way to do it without. Maybe try searching the part number of the tool on here and see if anything comes up? This is a VW doc, but surely equivalent. Click next page a couple or three times from here to see the full info Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Polo Mk3 > Heating, ventilation, air conditioning > Heating, air conditioning > Air conditioner > Repair work on refrigerant circuit which may be performed only in appropriate workshops by specially trained mechanics for vehic > Quick release coupling > Disconnecting quick release coupling (workshop-manuals.com)

No, but I've seen it described somewhere, probably a workshop manual for Skoda A/C systems. I'll see if I can find something.

Not that high, especially if it's a diesel, I don't think you've said which engine?

Looks like minimal loss in your first picture, but the joint/connection of your second post looks more serious. Guess you've looked everywhere else too? Generally the screwed in fittings seem to be single T45 torx screw fasteners, with locating dowel pegs. The holes that the pegs locate into can suffer oxidation as there's no weather seal to prevent air/moisture ingress If you get one that's furred up badly it can take a lot of pulling to get the flange fitting off. Needs cleaning up prior to replacing o-ring so that the fitting goes on square, otherwise damage to new o-ring could occur. Care to keep debris outside the system require during any such cleaning work. Here's a diagram of parts including seals. Item 34, 6Q0298260 ,looks like what you'd need to address the inline connection problem? a/c condenser; fluid reservoir; refrigerant circui... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2000 year] (7zap.com)

Check for blockage of the "2nd stage hose house in crabruter it self". One way to do this might be to connect a long vacuum hose to this port and suck on it. You should not be able to form a vacuum in the hose if the port is unblocked.