Breezy_Pete

Sounds like the relay within the motor module is doing the clicking, which should result in rotation, so I think it's falsely (or accurately) sensing an overload/overcurrent condition. The black rubber radial seal around the white cog sometimes gets extremely stiff, so it could just about be that, but I suspect it's more likely the result of contact burnout on that relay within the motor. Probably most economic to try a cheap secondhand replacement like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316982998532 I could inspect the original for you and replace that relay and anything else that looks suspect, if you wish. I'll start a private chat with you, because you lack sufficient posts (20) to start a conversation, I think.

Unscrew the motor from the door panel and check what happens with it trying to operate without driving the mechanicals. You'll have to reconnect the switchpack 'hanging' from the door loom, and will probably need ignition switched on to check.

I see. Well personally I'd go for the genuine one on ebay that's only done 50k, over any new aftermarket product. The latter tend to be cheap for a reason. Or keep your eyes/search engine open for another, perhaps tidier-looking one with similarly low mileage.

What's wrong with your original drive shafts?

The unilateral parking light thing happened because the indicator stalk was up (as if indicating right) when vehicle was switched off. Feature, not fault. Door locking oddness sounds reminiscent of a situation where one door is being sensed electrically as open, despite being physically shut. The two things together probably suggest that driver's door is being sensed as open, since exiting the car through that door with indicator non-central would normally give an audible warning in the same way as lights left on would. (Unless door open/closed status is not consistently correct in the electronics). Experiment to confirm.

Left as experienced when sitting in car facing forward. So nearside in UK.

Only when they're at the same end of the engine. 😉

Your price is before VAT, which is the current UK RRP on that part number. The VW parts UK one includes VAT, I think.

Ask your mechanic to reroute the coolant hoses to bypass the EGR cooler temporarily to rule that in or out.

Spammer, now reported.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

@Kalkveien Wiring information suggests that there are 3 separately fused power feeds to your ABS module. Cabin fuse 19 (5 Amp, ignition switched) and engine bay fuses 4 (20 Amp) and 25 (40 Amp), both permanent 12V. Check all three fuses.

Whereabouts is local?

Relays are behind the dash trim, above the fusebox. Fuel pump relay is probably bottom row second from right end.

Both the 6 valve and 12 valve engines can suffer timing chain jumps, but they tend to be 'game over' in the 12-valve engines. 6 valve examples seem to suffer more from exhaust valve burning problems. 12-valve engine were AZQ code until late 2004 approx, BME thereafter.

A tip for you regarding your engine. The HTP engines have a hydraulic chain tensioner. It tends to retain a volume of oil within itself after engine shutdown, which helps it to apply the required push on the chain guide quickly after start-up. One thing that can squeeze this oil out, is if the engine rotates backwards when not running. This can occur if the car is left in gear when parking on a slope, if the selected gear is opposite to the movement that happens if the handbrake slips a little. Better to maintain the handbrake sufficiently that there is no need to park in gear,or put it in a gear such that rotation will be normal if the car does shift a little.

In that case, I have no idea what the difference is, if any, between those versions of the Haynes. For most things apart from engine-related stuff (he has a diesel), you're probably as well off looking at Hat boy Harvey's youtube vids.

When you say 'Fabia 1', do you mean a Mk1 Fabia or a Mk2 Fabia with trim level 'Fabia 1'? Skoda made things very confusing for owners of early mk2s, by calling different trim levels Fabia 1, 2, and 3. To know whether you have a late Mk1 or an early Mk2, just look at your VIN number. If the 7th and 8th characters are 6Y, you have a Mk1. If 5J then you have a Mk2. Or look at styling differences in photos e.g. here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%A0koda_Fabia

I will send you a message requesting the VIN, so that I can look up full information relating to the ABS module in your Yeti. There is almost certainly more than one power feed to the module, but there are usually two or three variants so I would need VIN to find the correct diagram.

Is it still showing a fault code related to fan though? Have you cleared stored codes?

Both speeds? Fan control module is going to be hanging off the nearside chassis leg, quite near the radiator, access from below with undercover removed.

Maybe test the fan itself next, as described yesterday lunchtime?

Interesting. Get a couple of replacements in case there's a fault that takes it straight out again after you fit a new one. One possibility might be that the (internal) low speed fan resistor has failed, so it has been trying to start the fan at full speed from a standing start, with more of a surge than if it were already spinning at low speed. Wiring short somewhere is obviously another possibility.

Sounds like the oil separator. Item 23 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts It's not an easy repair, to be honest. Offside driveshaft really needs to come out for access, which is from below. Awkward to see and work on. Nothing technically tricky, just awkward, and has a sealant seal rather than a gasket. One thing that might be worth checking first is for other oil leaks that may be dripping down from above that area, giving the false impression that the separator is leaking. The throttle body sometimes receives oil via the turbo, some of which seems to get down the outside of the intake manifold. Have a look where the boost pipe attaches to the throttle body, see if there are any oily messes around there.

I guess the engine ECU relies on the temperature from its G62 coolant temperature sensor alone. If you want to test the fan itself, unplug the loom connector that goes onto the fan control unit and link contact 9 to 8 for low speed fan, 9 to 10 for full speed. Use a reasonably thick bit of wire, and expect a spark as you make the circuit. Keep hands/fingers well clear of fan blades!