Breezy_Pete

The reason I ask is from recent frustrating experience of a wideband sensor fault on our Roomster. Eventually, I found this, which solved it once I had replaced the worst affected bit of wiring and connector on the car loom side. See https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/assets/Uploads/Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf

If you have VCDS you can probably see fuel level in measuring blocks of module 17 (instruments). You could then see if that changes if you jack up the rear of the vehicle.

Any sign of oiliness within the plug/socket connection of the oxygen sensor?

Might be a dry joint on the cluster circuitboard, where the input from the sender potentiometer comes in. Not sure if open circuit would give a full or empty reading, but probably one or the other. Pin 15 springs to mind, but memory isn't to be relied on.

Yep. That's how it's sold. I think this design came in with changes in March 2010 for mk2's, possibly earlier.

@becky1357, your strip fuses look like this, I think. How did you go about checking them? Did you prize off the green plastic cover bit? The other power feed is from cabin fusebox #16 I believe, a 5-Amp fuse.

It's not super-clear, but from my experience on mk1 Fabia platform, you have an 8 each side, a 6 each side and two 5s each side?

Go here, use ctrl-f to find the various pages for 'assembly carrier', then pick the right diagram depending on your engine code. The bolts may be the same for all, dunno. Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Our 05 Fabia doesn't, but you may regard that as something silly. This thread revealed a much more recent Skoda example: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/529835-missing-anti-theft-fuses/

Would need to know the VIN to check. It may well be that some markets didn't fit an alarm as standard, but it would surprise me a lot if no Octies at all had alarms over that period.

I wouldn't be afraid of re-using the existing bolts, if this is the first timing belt change. I wouldn't be so happy to use them again if I knew that they had been out and back in again once (or more) times already. A Skoda dealer may be not as expensive as you think for these items, for example, for items 18, (19) and 19, the recommended prices in the UK are about £2, £5, £3 each, plus tax, so for the quantities required of those ones, you would expect to pay about £23 including tax at a UK Skoda parts counter. Approximately £12 for the 3 horizontal ones; if I'm correct about those.

Not surprised you were finding it hard to identify the correct items. Not super-obvious even with VIN filtering. The ones labelled 4, 6, 7 in the top part of your diagram are easier, corresponding to items 18, (19) and 19 here: The horizontal ones attaching console (20) to engine are a bit more confusing: Slightly less weird when you notice that items 20C and (21) are the same part number. If there are three screws (item 2 in your image) with two long and one short, I guess you have to get two of the M10x75 and one of the M10x55mm? The greyed out items don't suit your VIN.

Excellent, thanks for showing us the damaged area.

Could also be that the original sensor suffered a perforation failure which caused coolant to go into the connector pins, and may now have travelled along the strands of the wires to the ECU connector. If you find wetness at pins 52/53 you will know for sure.

@Samoht26 on your car there is a G83 as well as G62. G83 is described as Coolant temperature sender at radiator outlet, so I guess it is near the bottom hose connection to the radiator. Wiring to each is as follows: G62 pin 1 red/grey wire to engine ECU pin 52 of the 60-way connector G62 pin 2 brown/grey wire to engine ECU pin 53 of the 60-way connector G83 pin 1 yellow wire to engine ECU pin 37 of the 60-way connector G83 pin 2 brown wire to engine ECU pin 38 of the 60-way connector Is there any sign of wetness inside the loom plug for G62? Let me know if a pin diagram of engine ECU connectors is useful, although they are usually marked on the mating face, I think.

Well done, good result. No, I wouldn't worry about what is left. It will probably end up in the sump soon, may come out with the next oil change.

Managed to magnify your second image to see that the part number fitted is 2Q0199262BJ, which is a current (not superseded) part number retailing at £192 + VAT. No indication in the parts catalogue that it is RHD-specific. Are you certain that the fluid isn't coolant, from the reservoir that seems to be immediately above that area?

My A4 had a hydraulic engine mount one side. It had an electric valve that controlled its stiffness depending on operating conditions. It had leaked too.

Or just miscommunication, left side engine mount rather than LHD? Pictured one being right side.

I'm intrigued by this, can't quite picture why they'd be different. Care to share the reg or VIN with me (privately if you prefer) so I can research it a bit?

Better off having engine running when that sort of load is on the battery for a little while. Also the voltage to the inflator will be higher then, so will work faster.

Any of these should fit, I think (not sure why first two lines are repeated as last two):

I did give this a go, and it did seem to solve the problem. Weirdly, pretty much simultaneously, the latch that receives and detects the belt buckle bit started not detecting occasionally, causing warning lights and bonging noises. A squirt of air from one of those airduster aerosols seemed to sort that, presumably displacing some debris that was interfering with microswitch operation. Cheers again @aubrey . 🙂

Straight swap.

Not sure; VCDS would be handy if you can find someone nearby with it.