Breezy_Pete

Ignore that then.

Ah, sorry, I understand. If it is dripping oil on the road, then it should be changed, but if it is just looking slightly oily, leave it alone. The left one (short dirveshaft side) is much easier to access with the gearbox in the car, but both could be possible to change without gearbox removal. The other side would be very much harder to do, as there is a lot of stuff in the way from every direction.

Are you talking about the oil or the bearings now? Bearing change is total strip-down of gearbox as shown in the video.

GSB is certainly a gearbox code, your car is 2006, right? GSB was used until May 2006 in Fabia. This is the equivalent ETKA page for 2006 Polo, with different oil part number recommended (item 6A) 6-speed manual transmission - Polo/Derby/Vento-IND(PO) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com) Not sure what the difference is, but maybe google can help you find out something. Doesn't even say 75W next to that part number in ETKA.

This bearing seems to be a weak point in the 02T gearbox design, so an oil change may reduce the wear rate of that item by removing oil with tiny bits of the bearing suspended in it. There is a magnet which should take out such particles but there's probably a minimum size below which the oil hangs on to these contaminants. GENUINE POLO / FABIA / IBIZA / AUDI 02T 5SP GEARBOX TOP BEARING CARTRIDGE (O2T) | eBay Tomorrow I may just get round to stripping the end off an old gearbox that I removed from our Fabia after it started to get noisy. This video shows a guy stripping one down and finding bearing problems: https://youtu.be/OM53XdT56wo

Nothing useful on the bottle, as you suspected. I seem to remember that ETKA suggests different oils for the same gearbox codes on VWs and Skodas. Do you know what your gearbox code is? It will be on build data sticker. Might be able to get more info by cross-referencing.

Don't know, all etka says is 75W. I'll have a look at a bottle for you, but I don't think it says much.

Yes. It's not very expensive in the UK when bought directly from Skoda dealers, or genuine bottles via ebay etc using that part number. 2 litres required. Just check aftermarket oils for compatibility with that part number if you want to buy something else. Do you know where the fill and drain plugs are?

You're looking at the auxiliary belt. Timing belts and chains are always under covers, oil-tight covers in the case of chains.

Spline are 12-point, Torx 6 point, should be easy to spot which?

I think that was the key piece of information that was missing from your first post. Obviously, it would need to be brighter red to be daylight visible, which is what I think most of us assumed you meant. I'll try to remember to look at ours in the dark one day soon.

His profile says 2005 vRS.

The fitting at the inlet manifold, where the EGR output flow joins the airflow coming down from the throttle body, would still be the area I think you are most likely to find blockage. Ringed in red here: BTW, it seems like your engine code is BLF, and the diagram I linked before is the wrong one. Here's the correct one, showing the EGR valve looking more like your reality: intake system; vacuum system; activated carbon fil... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com)

Those first two pics do look like an EGR, but not a type I'm familiar with.

Neither of those sound right for your engine code. Check the stickers. The diagrams in etka are sometimes a bit generic, but what you are describing sounds more like the throttle body. Photos always useful.

They wouldn't write nonsense like this if they really knew their stuff: "If the EGR is not working effectively or blocked the amount of exhaust gases passing through the DPF will be increased potentially speeding up the DPF blocking." The fact is that EGR is not for recombusting anything, nor cleaning up exhaust gases. It's a way of introducing incombustible gases into the cylinders to reduce excess oxygen and reduce peak temperatures. This in turn reduces the amount of nitrogen oxides formed in the combustion chambers, which is the whole point. Unfortunately, this also reduces combustion efficiency and increases soot production. Check with google if you don't believe me.

You may well find that the valve itself is pretty clean (they run very hot); but there may be some blockage at the throttle-body end of the metal pipe coming off it. That may be much easier to get to. When I say engine code, I mean the 3 or 4 letter code that precisely defines your engine type. More specific than 1.6 FSI. It's on the build data sticker in the boot and/or the service book.

Engine code BGU? If so it (item 31) looks like two nuts, one electrical connector and a hoseclip to remove? throttle valve control element; vacuum system; int... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com) The nuts/studs will likely be rusty, so penetrating oil applied a day or two before trying to remove will be wise. Wire brush them too if you can get a small brush to them.

^ You don't understand how EGR works.

The oil won't get very hot in this situation, because the engine will be doing very little work. Do a search; this question about what oil temperature you should not exceed, or similar, comes up quite regularly.

In addition to any high-rate charging that may happen during overrun/braking (foot off acc pedal).

I was just wondering if the corrosion evident on no.5 was the result of moisture that had also tracked inwards and damaged the flexible wire. Seems not though.

Did that connect to connection numbered 3 or the number 5 one?

Look (on your car) at the temperatures shown for the cat in the two measuring blocks that I logged, 034 and 043. Compare with my numbers. Does the car get used mostly for short journeys? Some engine vibration at idle is normal, but should smooth out with a little more accelerator pedal.

Not quite clear to me what you were doing there. The non-coil contacts of the relay (the wide pins) are just a switch, there's no power source there, current goes in from the fuse on one of them, out on the other to the screen elements.