Breezy_Pete

It was probably the yellow oil level warning light that came on not the red oil pressure warning light. @JustMarcel may be able to confirm, if his wife noticed the colour.

Front brake PR code is never on the sticker. Message me with VIN if you'd like me to look it up for you.

Yes. Pre-facelift door looms will have a CAN pair to window motor, and three connectors to the motor, facelift has single wire LIN comms to window motor and only two connectors at motor.

Reg or VIN and I can look up for you. I'd be surprised if a faulty pedal didn't generate fault codes though. There are dual opposite-direction potentiometers in there, just as there are within the throttle body. All monitored for discrepancies I believe.

Hi and thanks for posting. I'll send you a message very soon, with contact details and information. 👍

There's nothing particularly challenging about the replacement. I think it probably needs doing quite regularly on mk1 Fabias, since the very same thread that you appear to have had trouble with during reassembly is often damaged or destroyed during disassembly. The bolt tends to seize into the alloy thread because of oxidation corrosion of the alloy. Don't know why Haynes omits it. I would have thought it would be in there somewhere. Tech1e's uploaded workshop manuals should cover it. The Chassis pdf I expect here: Skoda say that the two bolts that go into the chassis should be renewed, as well as the horizontal one you're having trouble with.

Sensor 2 still playing up even with a new loom connector and carefully cleaned sensor connector. That sensor has been on there for a couple of months though, so oil may have got too far up it. Cheapish aftermarket replacement due midweek. Just found this on YT: How Oil Destroys Lambda Sensors & How to Fix It

Known as console. Left (UK nearside)or right? Item 2 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts. Those suffix D parts have been superseded by suffix J, not sure why LLL isn't showing that, either OK though. Avoid any aftermarket versions that might have the early/original style rear bush fitted, with single rubber webs top and bottom, they're junk. Be careful when fitting, the holes that the vertical bolts go up through into the chassis have a 5mm clearance, designed to allow for a little alignment setting during factory assembly. You should try to ensure the car isn't subtly twisted during fitment (such as by just jacking up one front corner), as this might cause things to end up in a different spot and alignment compromised.

Have you tried that recently? I seem to remember reading that you can't do that any more. Edit: I was referring above specifically to the "car data", the list of all PR codes for a given VIN. Not sure now that's what you were meaning? I guess you may have meant repair data such as covered in a Haynes manual or similar instead? That would be available on erWin.

That all looks nice and dry to me.

Generally oil at the bottom started at the top and made its way down. Two places it can certainly leak from are the junction of the boost pipe and throttle body, and from behind the alloy casting/bracket that holds the oil filter, oil cooler and alternator. The former will show itself by there being little puddles of oil in some recesses of the inlet manifold, just to the left of where this plastic pipe attaches to the top of the TB. From there it will make its way down the back of the engine. The latter will tend to send oil down the front left side of the engine, behind alternator, onto air conditioning compressor and below/behind there on block and sump. Leakiness tends to be associated with higher than designed crankcase pressure, so try the following test: With engine warm and idling, loosen the oil filler cap by turning 90°. Does it try to escape upwards, dance around, or get pulled down slightly?

DFGA engine. Message landing imminently.

I'll message you shortly with info. 👍

Message me with VIN or reg plate. 🙂

However.... Just had a breakthrough, finally. I was making some test leads from the cables of the original oxygen/lambda sensors, to enable easier double-checking and load testing of the loom wiring between sensor connectors and ECU. One in particular was very oily all over the outside of the wires, and after cutting and stripping with the intention of fitting some 4mm sockets to each wire, it was apparent that the copper within the insulation was also oily. I faintly remember reading once upon a long time ago that a reference level of oxygen is ported into the sensor down the gaps between conductor strands, sounds mad doesn't it? Anyway, that got me googling 'oil contamination of oxygen sensor connectors', and that got me to here: https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/assets/Uploads/Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf Doesn't mention oxygen movements but does clearly indicate that an oily set of connector contacts can be problematic. Luckily, I had a spare 6-way connector of the right flavour for the precat sensor, with a few inches of wire hanging out. Cut and shut that into the engine bay loom and hey presto, bugger me gently with a chainsaw, sensor 1 code gone and not returning. I was close to seeking professional help on this, for the car and my mental state. 🙂 Just need to find a 4-way connector for the post-cat sensor now. 🥳

That tiny hole was indeed blocked on the manifold in the car, and fitting the spare manifold with it all cleaned out has rectified the 'dancing oil filler cap' problem. Didn't make any difference to the ever-present oxygen sensor faults though. I was pretty despondent about that; tried so many blind alleys trying to sort that.

Door card off, remove access covers that get you to the glass attachment points, move window to the height where these attachments are visible through the holes. Check for loose/broken bits on each.

Remembered while washing up that the unit in charge of central locking is the central convenience control unit. That's not the big square one with lots of connectors in two rows, above accelerator pedal (RHD), but a smaller rectangular box that's mounted above clutch pedal (bit of a pain to get to and extract).

'Fraid I have no experience or knowledge about changing keys/immo chips/locks etc. Immobiliser function is processed in the instrument cluster but engine ECU also involved, I think.

How many miles has the car done? Sorry if you already told me.

Immobiliser trouble tends to give start then cut out, and show key symbol fault light after cut, I think, so doubt it's that. Crank sensor, or wiring to it sounds like a fair bet, but PITA to access for checking/changing.

With the key in ignition problem, does it crank over or not, when misbehaving? Or does it start then cut out after a few seconds (immobiliser related)?

Does the backlighting in the switchpack work when vehicle lights are on? (Might need to wait until dusk to be able to see). Check fuse 11 in cabin fusebox too.

Are the electric windows working? On a 2007 Fabia, the 'key turned in lock' signal goes via the electric window motor module, so if that's dead, the c/l via key in door doesn't work either.

@imart143, thanks very much for your input though. 👍