Breezy_Pete

Are you sure it's bent, and not just lopsided cos one of the cables isn't moving as much as the other? Got a photo? Comes as part of the whole handbrake lever, item 1 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/7/711-711050/ Can you not whip one off a car at a scrapyard?

Do check the area of the radiator thermoswitch though. Leaks there tend to evaporate before they hit the ground, and it seems very common. The thermoswitch is located just above the bottom radiator hose connection. If it is leaking, tighten it a bit and it will stop. Don't be brutal, it's a brass thread insert in plastic. 30Nm specified torque.

Drive it hard and you can expect the level to drop faster if it is head-lift. Nanny it and the rate of loss will slow.

Instructions here, to save me saying it all again: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/118646-erwin-now-available-for-skoda/?do=findComment&comment=4377473

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

No, sorry. Copyright material. You can buy it yourself at erwin skoda for 7 euros plus tax.

Where does the downwards pointing hose go to if you follow it? Brake servo? Is it that one with the split? Where the rigid hose goes over the hose barbs of the one-way valve?

Usually if the immobiliser isn't happy it lets the engine start but then cuts it out again after a few seconds. (From what I've read, I haven't had it happen to me.)

I have no reason to think that isn't normal.

Crank sensor and MAP sensor are also fed from a 5V source (brown/white wires in both cases), but from a different ECU pin (62) so I suspect it may not be the same voltage supply. Check whether that 5V is present anyway, MAP sensor is a lot more accessible than crank sensor.

And you'd be right. I tried drain/gutter sealant the first time I repaired a door. It rained that night, and the sealant seemed to dissolve! That was the last time I ever bought anything in a pound shop, I think.

The earth sounds like the factory connecton. There is at least one other sensor fed by this 5V, I will have another look at the wiring diagram later because a fault elsewhere may be pulling down the 5V rail.

If built before March 2010, it should be like this Pin 1 at cam sensor connector, the red/black wire, should have 5V relative to pin 3 the brown earth wire. (Certainly when cranking or running, possibly just with ignition on) Pin 1 originates from pin 64 at the engine ECU, the earth wire should have connectivity to pin 54. If built from March 2010 onwards, the 5V wire is black/white and the earth is brown/blue.

Yep, CHFA. ☺️

Engine code is on the build options sticker on the boot/trunk floor. I can probably work it out from wikipedia, but if you can photograph that sticker it would be helpful. Wiring diagrams are organised by engine code; so it is easiest to use that to navigate to the right info. Also may appear on a sticker in the engine bay 'Motorkode' or similar, is the German name.

Yes, I think it should have 5V on one wire probably. What's the engine code?

OK, I expect there's no problem with either ECM.

Was the extra wire to 0V still connected into the blue/yellow when the second ECM was tried?

I'll have a look at wiring diagrams after breakfast, but I think various electrical supplies are only enabled when the fuel pump relay is energised, so maybe when the car was being used only on LPG, the previous owner 'frigged' the fuel pump relay to be forced into an energised state whenever the ignition was switched on (by connecting that blue/yellow wire to a permanent 0V. Then maybe disconnected the fuel pump itself? I'm not sure if this "forcing to 0V" would damage the ECM(s), but it seems a bit unlikely. But then, having fixed the wiring, I don't understand why you still have the error showing.

Which colour wire and which connection number at the audio is/was the additional wire to the relay coil added to? Was the wiring still like this when the replacement ECM was fitted?

The Hengst one appears to only have been used up to end of November 2005 (see here), so yours should be part number 071115562C which looks like the one Phil linked, see e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Audi-Oil-Filter-A3-A4-A5-A6-Q5-TT-071115562C/274052932287?epid=1309508713&hash=item3fced3e2bf:g:sOoAAOSwbbRbKiq~

I think scot owes you an apology.

It'll be a pressure sensor giving a continuum of pressure readings. In contrast to @J.R.'s comment about VCDS/G65 sensor showing pressure readings as absolute pressures, my experience with VCDS Lite is contrary. Zero indicated is atmospheric. I actually asked Dr Peter in the Ross-Tech forum if he could check his info about this, as it appeared to be based on a mis-reading of some published VW info, but got no response. (Post #38 in here). Possibly VCDS Lite and VCDS full do this differently, but I'd be surprised.

Apologies, I didn't read your first post carefully enough. Does the car have A/C? If so, do the fans kick in soon after demanding cold air from that?

Have you checked fuses?