Breezy_Pete

I suspect the loose contact improved during the previous repair was caused by uneven running and vibration as the motor struggled with inadequate reliable current supply due to sporadic brush contact. Just a theory.

Ran a post mortem on the old fuel pump this afternoon. Quite nicely engineered bit of kit, but suffered the fate of all dc brushed motors given enough running. Worn out/short brushes. Can't really blame it after 20 years and a shade under 210k miles.

Bye Steve. No need to harp on, just go if you don't want to stay.

Build date was 23/12/2010. In car printed manuals are often insufficiently up-to-date, same with stickers of fuse info. Sometimes copy/paste on something like a VIN doesn't work because of unnoticed leading or trailing space characters. Try typing it into the site that @Stonekeeper kindly recommended, character by character. And make sure all the 0 characters are entered as numeral zero, not letter 'oh'.

Loving the irony of a bunch of retired fellas discussing the best way to get to work. 😁

Pin numbering of the door loom connector shown here, on mating face:

This diagram shows the wiring associated with driver's door lock (F220), particularly (highlighted inside purple rectangle) their pin numbering at the 28-way A-pillar connector. This should facilitate testing for continuity and short-circuits. The brown wire coming from lock module to pin 23 appears to be a candidate that would disable both lock motors if it were not intact. Is it possible that the 28 way connector proved difficult to refit (poor access, locking lever not fully open, etc.) and pin 23 of the male connector in the A-pillar is bent or damaged? Phone camera may be handy to be able to see where the head can't be.

These compressors have a fail-safe system built in, so that if they seize up the pulley becomes disconnected from the shaft.

Will dig out wiring info tomorrow for you. 🙂

Diagnostics should be free on that one. Blower speed resistor failure. Extremely common over several decades of VW group vehicles.

This turns out to have been premature. Had three rather odd fault codes pop up this morning on my commute to work. About 10 miles in, EML comes on, no perceptible difference to how it was driving, nor any odd readings on gauges. Found a layby off the A420 and scanned with a handheld I keep in the glovebox: 17nnn (I forget) which was throttle actuator fault, 18088 something to do with unrecoverable limp mode, and 16500 coolant temperature sender implausible reading. Couldn't see anything wrong under the bonnet, and it still started and ran fine, so off I went again. The handheld thing wasn't able to clear the faults, and although I had a VCDS cable with me, no laptop. Got to work no bother. Scanned it again on arrival, and cleared codes with a different handheld that was on my bench. Still starting and running fine codes didn't instantly return. Went to give a workmate a lift to pick up his car from MOT and it wouldn't start 😆. Same kind of juddering and trying to but not catching as per 23rd/24th April above ^. This time I was a lot quicker to blame the fuel pump. No sounds when opening door or switching on ignition. Checked electric feed to it: present. Luckily GSF down the road had a Bosch pump that fitted. And car now runs again. Fixed? Bloody hope so! 🙂

@ThomasP will be more likely to see your request now that I've tagged him but, @svims best if you let me know the VIN for your car. That will allow me to look up the coolant temperature sensor wiring info that's most appropriate, which is not necessarily the same as on Tom's car.

Reg or VIN please, to find build date and thus the best circuit info. Any chance you crossed over some same or similar-coloured wires when repairing loom?

A/C mediated fan action tends to be triggered by refrigerant pressure levels, not engine coolant temperature. I suspect your fan control module may be built into the radiator fan. Let me know the VIN if you'd like me to investigate.

Everything on our Roomster went to sleep with door open and no attempt to lock car. Surprised me a little.

More chance of getting the road signage made more standard, I should think, and good luck with that!

Very unlikely to be there.

Does any water emerge when A/C is doing its thing?

Is the insulation not subtly perforated, like the edge of a stamp in a sheet?

Dunno, maybe the weld has cracked between pipe and sensor fitting?

Warrior makes a good point. I spent a lot of time over the BH weekend assuming I had a parasitic drain on our Roomster, but found nothing, except a failed (very recent) battery. To let the car shut down I found that just letting it sit, for around 15-20 minutes, after opening the door for access to cabin fusebox, was enough for the few fuses showing mV to go to zero.

No problem. Bear in mind the the diagrams in the link are for LHD car, so your drain will be the other side of the matrix hoses.

Firewall, engine side, next to matrix (not refrigerant) pipes, hiding under a flap of sound insulation. See this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514260-air-con-leak/

There are two fuses for instrument cluster, an ignition switched supply from fuse 6, and a permanent supply from fuse 39 (on your car, not on earlier models). Fuse 39 is also a permanent supply to the steering column control unit J527. Thin red/yellow wires for both destinations. Beyond my patience levels to define exactly all the fuses for any given individual car. Could probably be done, but would take hours with the resources I use (in this case a 4140 page pdf of all the possible electrics in an Octy 2 from May 2007 - April 2011; plus build date and a list of PR codes from your VIN). What steps have you taken to assure yourself that the car is properly 'asleep' before these measurements are done?

Let me know the VIN and I can find out what that fuse does.