Breezy_Pete

First start after the change will be noisy, while it fills with oil, but subsequent ones will hopefully be better.

Yes, that's it,and that's what I did. I did try to squirt a bit of clean oil into a hole on the side of the new one, but I don't think much, if any, actually went in.

Look over the top of the engine to find the green oil pressure switch. Tensioner is just below it, red arrow points at the 27mm hexagonal back end of it. Unscrew, remove rearward, put new one in, tighten to 60Nm.

Yes that has the later chain type. Tensioner part number is 03F109507F (price of this part from Skoda in UK is approx £75). There are some coolant hoses a little obstructing the access for changing it, but I found it possible just by pushing them aside. Requires a 27mm socket to undo the old one, remove, and tighten in the new one. Specified torque is 60Nm.

Yes, it might. I think your car should have the later, duplex chain, which is less likely to itself be a problem. I can't remember right now when the later chain design started to be fitted in mk2 Fabia, but I could check for you tomorrow with VIN number. If the car has had regular oil changes with suitable oil and filters, I doubt the oil pump would have problems. Don't know anything about the high pressure fuel pump, yet.

Has the chain tensioner ever been changed? Cheap and easy thing to do first, if not.

This evening I'll edit this post into a big version, but a spoiler is that it was addressing the oil leak, quite a significant one, mentioned on the last few MOTs as an advisory "oil leak front of engine". I'd already guessed at the culprit, and even headed down to the car on my first visit armed with the necessary gasket, since the replacement involved alternator removal amongst other things, and I thought it would be nice to 'kill two birds with one stone', while I was fitting a good alternator to get the car mobile anyway. I posted a video of the seal replacement in a related thread after doing a search for 1.2TSi oil leak on here, and coming across this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/438119-2011-12tsi-dsg-oil-leak-head-gasket-gone/page/2/#findComment-5931213 Typically in that vid, the lambda sensor removal is made to look much easier than ever happens in real life, in my experience. It does have to come out in order to get the heatshield off, annoyingly, which then gives access to the right-most screw that holds the filter/cooler/alternator bracket casting on. Wildly underestimated the work involved, and didn't even contemplate it on that occasion. Spoiler: this figure of 8, plus another loop, rubber gasket seals the casting that holds oil filter and cooler onto the front of the block. It had stopped sealing it. The rubber was hard as a rock, squished flat with no compliance left at all. Can't blame it at 13 years old and 159k miles driven. Not the best design, possibly. There were also a few tiny bits of casting flash around the edges of that face where the seal sat, maybe holding it off the block a smidge more than planned. Tidied up before new gasket was fitted.

Next was a couple of electrical fixes. Partner had told me that high level brake light was inop, following me back from collecting the car. I'd noticed that the passenger side wing mirror was pointing down and inwards at an unhelpful angle, and the adjustment didn't work. Boot wiring problem was unsurprising. Previous repair evidence on a few wires, and one newly broken wire responsible for brake light non-function. Easy fix. Mirror fault was imagined to be similar, and sure enough, after minor battle to release the bellows from (right) A-pillar 28-way connector, a couple of broken wires greeted me. Don't seem to have pics, except this one, taken just after loom removal and before bench repairs, to remind me the shape/profile of the loom as it comes into the innards of the door. Repaired wires restored function of the mirror, and I did a couple of other wires that had cracked insulation but no sign of strand breakage yet, splicing lengths of super-flexible silicone insulated wire pre-emptively. Was glad to discover that the loom removal and refitting process wasn't too bad to do. Had cause to inspect the other (passenger) side at the weekend and there were two wires with cracked insulation but none broken. May get round to future-proofing them at some point when everything else is done!

Part number suggested by Parts Catalogue is 5J0 971 120 HD, RRP is currently £138.50 + VAT. Nicer prices at LLL Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J0971120HD - LLLParts I repaired the loom on our Roomster recently, but by taking the whole thing out to repair on the bench. Probably worth persisting with your soldering efforts, extending the wires is a good plan.

I've just sent you a private message Robert. 👍

Message me with VIN if you'd like me to look up part number of door loom.

Parts list page for 2010 Fabia with rear drums: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/608/6/609/609020 That's the only option there, PR 1KM, for drums at rear. Front brakes might be one of two set-ups on your car, I think. One type has 239mm discs, the other 256mm. PR code for that wouldn't be on the sticker, typically.

Hi Ade, messaging you now.

CV came away as planned, and boot replacement was the usual messy-as job. Didn't do a thorough job and clean out all the old grease, probably should have. Boot sorted. Brake stuff had come apart easily enough again, and now-correct disc was straightforward to fit. Then came the first significant snag. When re-torquing the carrier screws, the top one suddenly stripped. Bugger! erWin info didn't specify replacement (just 124Nm torque I think), so I hadn't. May have helped me if I had, not sure. Took the screw back out in the vain hope that it was just that that had stripped, rather than the thread in the wheel bearing housing. It looked odd. Turned out there was a helicoil (I guess?) filling in the thread at the business end, came off the screw in one piece: So a previous repair had pulled out; yay! 😧 Wandered off to sulk for a bit. I had only just been telling myself how nice it was to be working on a car where all the fasteners came undone OK, rather than battles with seized and rusted stuff more typical of what I'm used to. Simple choice faced me. another thread repair attempt or replace wheel bearing housing (far more time and work). So I went for the quick and dirty option and got this set on order from ebay: M12 x 1.5mm BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER BOLT THREAD REPAIR KIT Inserts Tap Drill Bit | eBay Idea is that a threaded top-hat type thing is fitted into the hole where the thread was, from the side opposite the screw. Didn't think about this quite long enough, in the context. It comes with a stepped drill that centralises the new sized hole in the existing one, with a hardened spacer/guide bar too that forces it to be the right distance from the other one. See images in listing. Took a lot of drilling, hard work for some time. Went to fit the insert, which should be a tight enough fit to require a bit of pulling in, with pin and bearinged washer arrangement supplied. It was loose as anything. 🤔 What I'd not taken into account was that the previous repair had already created a significantly oversize hole where the helicoil had been put in, so the stepped drill hadn't done an adequate job of centralising the full size hole, which had wandered about and drilled oversize. Dumb mistake in hindsight, though not sure I could have made it work better, with this kit. Anyway, thought I'd try torquing up the carrier screws anyway, to see what happened, and both took full torque without anything feeling bad. Wasn't happy about it, and knew I'd be revisiting at some point before long.

Front right needed outer CV boot replacement as well as brake stuff, but happily I: a) had bought a tool some time back for in-situ removing of outer CV from driveshaft, and, b) remembered that I had, and, c) found it in my garage without undue time spent Only in the £15 territory, from memory. [More coming soon, just got to pop out]

Rear left got a new (correct) disc and pad set, MDK0037 I think? Didn't do the bumpstop or spring top rubber yet, still umming and ahhing about whether to change shock while I was at it. Rear right got new disc and pads, new shock and bumpstop. No dramas. Wasn't sure what to expect with the caliper, going by the evidence of the hose clamping imprint, but it wound back quite easily, possibly a replacement? Doesn't look any newer than t'other side though. Odd.

Ordered up Mintex brake boxes (discs and pads), a genuine NOS rear shock, rear bumpstops, a CV boot, nuts and bolts. Started work on front left (going anticlockwise this time thinking I'd leave the front right with the CV action 'til last). Everything came apart easily for the disc and pad change, but as noted in another thread, first snag came with the fact that despite ebay seller checking with reg number, the discs in the front brake box were wrong. Silly me; thought all the VAG 288mm discs were probably the same, so didn't personally check everything well enough at time of order or delivery. Seller was decent about it and gave a full return/refund including pre-paid Evri label, having established that they didn't have a correct set for the car. I think having looked on the Mintex site that there isn't actually a front pads + discs set to suit this application; could be wrong. Luckily, the GSF near my workplace had sets of Brembo discs and pads that I was happy enough with, for not much more than the refund amount, in stock the next day. Went up together nicely once the 'bell' of the disc was the right depth.

Right front Disc in similar poor condition. CV grease around, lots of mud around Lots of engine oil around on undertray

Left front Not much to note or of concern, except disc looking very old and disintegratey. Probably not actually that close to failure, but not nice looking.

Left rear. Bump stop entirely broken. Shock and spring look OK, top rubber mount of spring looks a bit odd, some rubber hanging off the edge. Is there a right and a wrong orientation for the top 'tail' of the spring to be? Disc and pads similar to first side. Didn't take any pics as they'd have been largely duplicates. Rear beam has a scab or two that might benefit from treating. Rear exhaust box looking very original and scabby, continuous pipe including mid silencer, so confirming originality. No obvious leaks currently.

Time for some progress reporting (overdue, sorry). Before I plucked up the courage to sort the oil leak I went round all four corners checking suspension, brakes etc. Started on right rear for no particular reason. Disc - original-looking, nasty. Possibly would clean up OK, rear/inner side may be worse. Pads - well worn but legal Flexible brake hose has a 'pinch mark' where a clamp had been used a bit unsympathetically, but doesn't look like more than cosmetic damage. (Can just be seen in this shot of the disc below, just to the right of the top of the loop). Handbrake having uneven effect between sides. Bump stop, hanging on by a thread! Shock covered in oil covered in dirt. Spring looks in good shape.

Messaging you now @mint1e 👍

Apparently not. see items 2 and 3 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Suffix E parts replaced by suffix P ( both are part numbers for whole rod with both ends) but no distinction between any engine types.

Yes, that should be fine. Access is pretty awful but just use your third and fourth hands!

Hi Dave, thanks for posting. Yes, that 6Y2959801 part number is what you need. The SK1/SK4 is only ever visible in parts catalogue and on the box label of a brand new motor. The key requirement for you is that the motor you buy should be from RHD mk1 Fabia. This will be ensured by matching both the first and last line of the main PN label. So 6Y2959801 first, and SK240PDRS last. The actual software version (SK1 or 4) is not critical (and not easily determined AFAIK).