Breezy_Pete

Can be just the nozzle blocked, and they generally pull out fairly easily to test flow without.

Ah, I see. Working rear wiper >= + 100bhp.

The bit just outside the fuel cap, with a water drain hole? It would be remarkable if cleaning that area and unblocking that drain helped with engine performance. What was the car in for?

Probably just near fuel tank, accessible by removing right rear wheel arch liner. Supply VIN if you would like confirmation.

Yep, currently £21.65 plus VAT each. That's based on the part number 05E 905 602.

Looks to me like the breather assembly may be built into the cylinder head cover, item 20 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts The round, diaphragm-shaped enclosure just next to where the breather pipe attaches makes me think there's some 'cunning stuff' in there.

@maggieh just out of curiosity, what was the reason for fitting the new turbo, where did it come from and did you retain the old one?

About £2.30-odd + VAT each across a Skoda parts counter at a dealership. Few options a bit cheaper here but usually take a week or so to deliver. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/n90991002/vag-screw-n90991002

N90991002, M10x23mm.

Since @Strugs isn't following this thread, and hasn't been on the forum since February, I've tagged him to hopefully cause him to get an email notification about your question @Hindsite.

What do you think this might include? I don't think there is any such etc. If you want to clean the injectors, it's almost certainly better to remove them and get them to someone who can not only clean but test the spray pattern afterwards. But petrol is a very good solvent for a lot of things, and you're already regularly passing that through them at some considerable pressure.

Go to the same page via lll parts. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

Brilliant news! Well done.

Waste of money, sadly.

For the pump to be running when it should not be, there are only really two possibilities. The control signal from engine ECU says 'run pump' at a time when it isn't really needed (for reasons we can't see easily), and the pump has its power feed because the relay is switched on, or The relay is switched on when it should not be, and the control signal says 'run pump'. I don't know which. Sometimes electronic modules have 'emergency state' defaults if the control signal is not within expected parameters while the module is powered, and that state is usually the one that minimises the chance of engine overheating. I have told you all of the directly related wiring. You can download wiring diagrams for every variant of Kamiq from erWin Skoda if you spend a few Euro.

Yes.

Strange. (Engine bay) Fuse 10 is a permanent 12V supply to the battery monitor control unit, according to the circuits I am looking at.

One way that relays fail is that the contacts stick (weld) together when they should be apart. The relay probably should stay energised (contacts together to power the fuse and pump, and several other fuses and other items), but only for a short time after key is removed, so that this coolant pump can run for a short time after switch-off, if the engine ECU decides it is useful.

Sounds like I'm too late with this, did you find numbering on the sockets where the relays fit?

The wiring diagram, indicates that there is a servomotor on the radiator 'blind' assembly, which shares a 12V supply from fuse 2. Was that damaged?

Not sure who obliterated the VIN, but luckily I had left the page open on my phone, pre-edit. Wiring and relay are as described earlier. If no problem can be found with any of the three wires or the connector at the pump, I think maybe replacing the relay might be the easiest thing to try.

Put the old one back on and see if it's squealing or not.

I will re-check the wiring info now that I have the VIN.

Engine code or VIN would help, but I expect you'll find 3 wires going to the pump connector, a brown earth wire, a blue 12V feed, and a blue/yellow control wire from the engine ECU, pin 21 of the 60-way connector. The blue wire is fed via fuse 2 in engine bay, which is from the output of the 'main relay' J271 (Relay position 6 in engine bay) , which is also controlled by engine ECU.

External EGR, where exhaust gases are fed back into the inlet manifold is rare or unheard-of lately in petrol engines. Tends to be done by valve overlap and adjustable valve timing now, I believe. I think from around 2006 petrol engines started shedding external EGRs, in VW group stuff anyway. Diesels naturally make more NOx and need more EGR (and latterly SCR/Adblue) to deal with it.