Breezy_Pete

I think you can probably change it without losing much if any oil on a 1.2 TSI, others will know better than me, never done one. Likely is the wrong filter, I'd say.

I went through a phase of watching lots of his videos. There's a fascination for me in watching how he overcomes a lot of the access and tooling issues whilst also managing to film it all, well, seemingly alone!

Take your time, and if in doubt, remove more bits than strictly essential, to give yourself more working space.

Yes, pull the nozzle out with pliers and see if it sprays then. If so, put nozzle into descaling solution for a while and then try to blow through it. If not, just buy a replacement for not much. Pin is no good for unblocking, I seem to remember, because there's a right angle bend in the pathway the water follows, which you'll never clear with a pin.

Perhaps you have been given/sold the wrong filter type? Was it visually the same or different to what came off? It's possible you have a coincidental failure of the oil pressure switch, find and disconnect the 1-wire connector from it to see if there is leaked oil inside it.

If a fault with potential impact on emissions is detected, that the engine ECU can ascribe to one of the three cylinders, it does indeed shut down that cylinder @J.R.. It's quite dramatic and unwelcome on a 3-potter. What would have been an excellent idea, with 6/6 hindsight (metric for 20/20) is to have asked the roadside attender which fault codes had resulted in the warning lights. There will have been at least one, and they would have seen it, before clearing and blaming the need for a software update.

Find it, read the big number off the top of it or the part number on the side of it. See what prices you can find for 2nd hand and new, and decide which to try by substitution.

1.2 12-valve or 1.2 6-valve? Wiring and relay arrangements differ. Let me know the VIN if unsure which.

So there are 2 fuse no.7s in the under-bonnet fuse box, one is a strip fuse, on the front of the box, shown as not assigned in my info. The other, a 40 Amp blade-type fuse is shown as supplying the X contact relief relay. If that relay is sticking on when it should be off, that may explain the large current draw, if something that should be switched off by it is staying on. That relay is in position 5 of the "relay holder A under onboard control unit" (also known as BCM, in cabin generally in front of driver's right knee in RHD cars).

Same part number (including suffix) = same item, doesn't matter where it's found.

VIN or reg plate would allow me to investigate car-specific circuits and fuse allocations. Owners manuals try but often fail to keep up with all the variants.

Helps with fuel economy/CO2 rating during Type Approval testing, primarily. Charge management with EFB/AGM batteries, which mustn't be overcharged, too.

Might be a worn EGR valve rather than a sticking one. A sticking one ought to generate a specific code saying 'position mismatch' or similar, since there is position feedback from a potentiometer in the top part. EGR valves on petrol engines tend to burn off any local carbon build-up cos they run very hot. As said in that linked thread, it's only generally the TB end of the metal pipe that gets occluded, where temperatures are much lower. No cooler on these, @Alasdair1 other than the long steel pipe. There's a little pipe on the side of the EGR that equalises the pressure above the valve, with a tiddly little air filter on the end of the short flexible pipe. It might be worth pulling that filter off, and seeing how much suck there is on that pipe when the engine is idling (EGR should be shut below 1500rpm). It is expected that there should be a bit of air entry here, due to the clearances round the valve stem and wear on the valve seat, but if it seems like a really strong suck, that air is probably leaking through to the intake manifold and potentially confusing the engine ECU. If EGR valve is thought to be original, it may be time to replace, genuine Pierburg recommended over the many cheap chinesium offerings.

It's a LIN wire from the alarm horn to BCM. Link to lock microswitch (actually the earth) solder thing: Locking misbehaviour, another possible cause - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) - BRISKODALocking misbehaviour, another possible cause - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) - BRISKODA The lock repaired in that thread remains in service, fault free nearly five years on.

OK, well I don't always trust car mechanics, but if you are convinced to try it, you could just fit the replacement one and try it. Officially you should adapt the engine ECU to the replacement, using VCDS or similar. See Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) - Ross-Tech Wiki. This educates the ECU about the voltages on the position feedback potentiometers within the throttle body at the limits of travel. I think it will probably work OK without doing this. Disconnecting the battery will do nothing that taking the key out of the ignition switch doesn't do, as far as the engine ECU is concerned.

OK, so non-turbo 1.2 12-valve 3 cylinder. Have you checked the vacuum pipe which connects the brake servo (booster) to the intake manifold? These crack at the junctions of the hard plastic sections causing false air to enter the manifold, out of control by the throttle body.

What makes you think it needs to be replaced? When was the car built? Which 1.2 petrol engine is it? With or without turbo?

Yes, there's just the two-way signal connector and the hefty output wire, but it is quite possible to not reconnect that 2-way, or the latch on it be broken so it doesn't stay properly mated. I'd imagine it's accessible enough to get at without major disassembly. Does battery light come on with ignition? That's the other wire in the 2-way.

Possibly my pic and vid? 20200910_155143.mp4

Lots of 2nd hand ones ebay at various prices. 🙂

That number does seem correct for your car, but has been superseded by 5J7955711C.

@Dabber2024, from what you say about the dash display correctly showing door open/closed status I'd imagine there's nothing wrong with microswitch or its wiring. Rather, when you go to enter the car, the interior monitoring sensor is picking up your movements and triggering the alarm, assuming you have 'locked' the car and so set the alarm. Unfortunately, I don't expect VCDS lite will work on a mk2 Fabia built from March 2010 onwards. Can't remember exactly why not, but never heard of anyone trying and succeeding with a Fabia younger than this.

New genuine stat and temperature sensor ordered from a VW dealer, and a new stat pipe/housing bit from aftermarket/ebay seem to have finally put the cool running fiasco behind me a few weeks back. That was a ballache! In other good news, I took a punt on the cheapest of 3 MAFs GSF were suggesting for my reg (Hella branded), and it seems to have ended the driveability problems I was having. Smokeless and smooth now. Much more enjoyable drive.😎

For your car, the catalogue says 1K8951605B, [my emphasis on the 8] which has been superseded by 1K0951605F the latter retails at £207.50 + VAT currently in UK.