Breezy_Pete

In a mk2 Golf I used to own, there was a thermostatic vacuum valve in the hose that went to the diaphragm which moved the flap. That contained a bimetallic strip which was supposed to respond to the intake temperature to create a closed loop system. The little thermostat valve needed cleaning out before mine worked correctly. The 'teeny tiny hole' was blocked, so not allowing sampling of the passing air, or something, I seem to remember. (This was at least 20 years ago, so the memory is vague). Not sure if Felicia has same thing?

Perhaps a reason to be a bit more hesitant before ridiculing stuff that 'sounds wrong'?

If it is not leaking from somewhere higher up (above gearbox) and running down to there, then it seems likely that you would have to remove the gearbox to find the source of the oil. May be better to just keep cleaning it and making sure you are not losing much oil by checking the level regularly. If it is leaking enough to make a mess on your driveway, then it would be kind to other road users if you fix it before it gets much worse. It would be helpful if @Blue8793841 could maybe show us the technical service bulletin he mentions. Or at least tell us which brand, model and engine(s) it applied to.

Surprised me too @J.R., but make yourself a cup of tea and then try googling "oil leaking from flywheel bolts". Quite a bit of reading matter pops up.

I'll encourage someone else to flesh out that statement. Never owned a vehicle with a DPF myself.

More likely to be fuel contamination into the oil, unfortunately, due to interrupted/incomplete regens.

Ignore my mention of the precat bit. Whilst the ETKA illustration depicts one, real photos of genuine sections suggest it's not present on your part number. Makes life a bit easier.

How many miles has the car done Tony? The original cats will be bigger and contain far more catalytic materials compared with an aftermarket replacement, which are probably capable of scraping through 2 or 3 MOTs only, and I think will universally omit the precat at the start of the section, So a grafting in of a flexi is a good option, but not entirely straightforward. I believe you may find 'kinks' in the 3D shape of the front section, close to the flexible part on at least one end, which will need careful planning and marking to ensure a viable fit if welding it in. I think the front section part number is 6Q0254502RX, still available from Skoda if you have a grand or so to spare. Aftermarket versions can be found at around a tenth of that cost on ebay, if you search that number. I can be more confident of that being the correct part number for your car if you supply reg or VIN.

If you'd like the current part number for the coilpacks, ping me the reg or VIN. Unless someone made a mistake (or only claimed to replace them...), plugs fitted in Oct '24 can't really be a problem already? Check no.3, sure.

@ThomasP, if you would like the wiring information about which engine ECU pins the G62 sensor connects from, please share your VIN by private message so I can look up for you. May be useful to an autospark, if not yourself.

A condition check of the spark plug in cylinder 3, if not all, would be wise prior to any parts spending, to be honest, if garage have not done so.

Cylinder 3, I think Gaz. See full description under this vid: https://youtu.be/1ZyIgvil_9A?si=DKGeqbpjK8ZPBPVu I would certainly not replace unfailed ones, but I might acquire a spare to keep in the car, for potential roadside repairs.

PM'ing you about this now.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to either of those questions. Front bumper may well have to be removed to replace it, which adds a bit of labour time. If you can DIY, it may save a fair bit. Shame there don't seem to be any aftermarket units available yet.

@Stevept80, I didn't check for you the other day, but having just done so, I see that the part number you quoted was superseded by Skoda to 6V2941015F, which is what they presumably quoted for, £496 + VAT? (£595.20) Which makes the LLL one seem relatively cheap; although it's now showing as check availability, so may be illusory. A suffix-E one on ebay at similar price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134827777739

Physical damage to existing unit, or internal failure?

This may be marginally cheaper, but still eye-watering https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/6V2941015E/vag-led-headlight-6v2941015e

Well done for persisting and winning!

Terminal 30 simply refers to anything that is a permanent 12V connection.

Driver's door motor module needs repairing. Classic symptoms described in your post. Message me or look in the Entrepreneur section for details of repair service, if you wish.

Yes, I believe so. Could you maybe solder the wires straight onto those pins coming out of the regulator?

That photo would make me think it's a connection problem, right there.

Possibly a problem with the voltage regulator part of the alternator, is it original as far as you know? What voltage do you see across battery terminals with engine running?

Pin 1 brown, earth Pin 2 black, +5V Pin 4 blue, signal.