Breezy_Pete

Flat face towards ABS sensor, from memory.

I presume they were referring to the charcoal canister, a part of the evaporative emissions equipment. An unusual failure point and definitely not a service item. Liquid fuel does not go through it.

The part appears to be pretty cheap, but I can't quite tell from the photos here if there's a separate gasket, or it's integrated. Looks more like a groove for a gasket, or for sealant? Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Oil Separator 04E103464AM - LLLParts Might just be able to remove, clean up and re-seal your one, if it is a sealant fit. Access may be awkward; dunno. It's on the front of the block.

And have you checked that they are on the correct sides of the car, since I posted that photo showing how it looks like they might be possible to fit on the wrong sides? A photo from below with a phone camera at arms length might be enough to see.

Did I understand correctly that you have changed the lower arm balljoints? That's what I understood from your statement below Not sure because just yesterday you quoted me but then showed a photo of the track rod end, not the lower arm balljoint? Did you change these: or not?

Yep, just the shaft, unless there are other bits on the whole leg that might come in useful?

Looks like left driveshaft part number is 6R0407763E currently. Secondhand via ebay may be best bet for a quickish result.

Can you message me with VIN or reg plate?

Unplug the loom connector from the coolant temperature sensor and have a close examination of the mating face. Look for signs of wetness or corrosion. Sometimes coolant temperature sensors fail in a way that makes them leak pressurised coolant into the connector and wiring.

Would be interesting to see what the torsion value is currently. VCDS measuring block 4, last field if I remember right. Just make sure you get the right locking tools and right info before starting the cambelt job.

That Amazon item I linked above really does go to zero current when the red switch is off. 13mA when it's on and doing nothing other than displaying the voltage though. More current still as each pushbutton switch for the outlets is enabled (blue LED on each), even with nothing connected to them. I wouldn't leave it with voltage display left on, unless I was actively monitoring the voltage in the short term.

This suggests maybe it is possible to misfit. This is a left one,

Yeah, they probably don't fit the hole pattern if they're on the wrong sides, But worth a quick double-check, I think.

Camber can often be equalised, rather than individually adjusted, by moving the whole subframe relative to the body. A delicate process if you don't want to have to iterate too many times though, I think. The caster is odd though, any chance the ball joints are handed, and fitted to the wrong sides?

Citigo is the only Skoda model that has it ignition switched, as far as I am aware; all the others have it permanently live. I don't think there's an easy way to make it ignition switched on a mk3 Fabia, but hopefully some mk3 owners reading this will be able to help. I bought a switched multi-way adaptor recently that may do the job, but would require him to remember to switch it off. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CSS7DVJF Haven't actually checked that current drawn goes to zero when the red rocker switch is off, I should do so. Thought I might be able to get into it and look at the wiring, but it's well sealed.

Yes, I had a quick look at pictures of the 1.2TSI (CBZA or CBZB code?) on ebay, and there looks to be a bunch of turbo/exhaust stuff in the way of getting to the back of the alternator. It may well have to come out I should think, to access the regulator/brushpack. Have you got a multimeter with which you could measure some voltages before/after starting engine?

You're right about the MIL, shouldn't have been relevant because: "You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008." The 10 minute warning light is almost certainly either the replacement alternator wasn't compatible, the connector at the alt was not refitted, or was broken, or the DFM wire (the one that isn't blue) between alternator and ECU. If you let me know build date of car, or reg or VIN I can look up exact circuit info. Wheel arch liner removal will obviously be a good start in accessing the PAS pipes. Never got down and dirty with them myself though. Repair of what you have may be the best strategy, followed by trying to find some better condition ones from scrappies.

Cleaning the surface you can actually get at when it is removed will make no difference. You're wasting your time on a guess.

Yes, I think that's a good idea. Not sure how easy access is.

I don't think this can be the problem. In Fabias, when this wire that energises the alternator breaks, the red charge warning light stops working. I believe your experience prior to the breakdown was that it was working. Just turn on the ignition to the point where lots of warning lights self-test, and check that you see the red picture of a battery. If you do, that wire isn't broken.

Do you know what damage the cluster has?

Yeah, I'm toying with the idea of coming over to see if I can help with this. Probably lots of life left in it.

Yes; engine top cover off, and look where Alasdair suggested.

M14 I believe.