Breezy_Pete

Yes, it unclips at A-pillar end. There's a tab on the top that you push downwards to unlatch it, then it should come free. Youtube probably has a number of relevant demo videos. Common to several Skoda models from about 2007 onward, I believe.

There may be other broken wires going to the motor module, or possibly corrosion on connector pins at the motor, or deeper within the motor module. Wiring of door loom inside the bellows at A-pillar is easier to inspect than connector at window motor, so I'd suggest looking at that first.

Check whether the backlighting of the switches is working when the vehicle's sidelights are turned on. The backlight illumination relies on the same earth wire as the switches do, so a lack of backlighting typically means that this eath connection is not good. Often on this platform, a broken wire in the door hinge area turns out to be responsible.

Easy to see which door carrier seals are leaking. After rainfall, or simulated rainfall, just open each door in turn and look at the rubber seal along the bottom of the door opening. Any that have little puddles sitting on the horizontal part of the seal will have leaking carrier seals. There may also be witness marks on the paintwork of the door, just below the door card. This is a right rear doorway on our car, with some water placed where it will appear if there are carrier leaks:

I doubt the exact sealant types are critical, I've no idea how the various Skoda ones differ. There's even a third one for the rocker cover, different from both the sump one and the chain cover one. Other things that you may or may not have acquired are a way to support the engine when the driver's side mount is off, and the sump is too. (Beam across wings typically)? Locking tools set for cams and crank? Fitting the crank one in place of the crank sensor is a mission in itself, access being awful, and it may be corroded in if the alloy of the block has got a bit furry over the years. Counterhold tool for when you do up the crank pulley bolt. The torque plus angle is very hard to achieve on the driveway with the new spec bolt, would have to check for your specific engine code, but the one I did was 150Nm PLUS 180°/ half turn. That's hard to do even with 3 foot+ long breaker bar on the socket, similar length counterhold tool keeping the pulley from coming round with the bolt, and one strong person on each, to be honest. The other thing to consider is that there may well also be valve damage, in which case you might go through all the pain of changing out the chain kit, only to be no better off than you were. Consider endoscopic, borescope-type inspection via the spark plug holes to maybe spot this ahead of starting work. Sorry to be such a downer about this, but having done the job, I know it's not something an amateur is going to enjoy, or perhaps even be able to complete. There is a full time mechanic @hutchysrs50 who used to post regularly on here, who did one on his own mk1 Fabia several years back, and I remember him describing the job as a right pain in the backside, or words to that effect.

Pretty sure removing the OSF wheel and wheel arch liner will be essential for sufficient access and visibility.

It will be soldered onto the circuit board of the BCM, I expect.

Surely the MAF sensor is far enough upstream (in terms of airflow) from the turbo to be beyond oil reach? Isn't the MAF just after the air filter? Do you know what your engine code is, by any chance? MAP sensor would make more sense, I think?

Alarm horn on your car appears to be fused from Fuse 54, 15 Amp value. It has only LIN 1-wire comms to the BCM, not CAN connected. See if there is evidence of a drain via that fuse? (Not mentioned in your original post, so I guess not?) Would be good to get a VCDS scan of the BCM (module 09) to see if it is registering a fault with the alarm horn (probably). That may, I suppose be causing things to not shut down fully. Not sure.

That VIN for a Denso system gives matrix part number 5WA 819 031. Skoda only want £326 plus VAT retail. 😆

Or just bite the bullet and take it out far enough to find the part number sticker on it?

If you're sure it's a Denso system, and you tell me the VIN, I can tell you the matrix part number.

Looking at your pic, and the parts catalogue, it looks like those metal pipes aren't part of the matrix, but unscrew/unclamp from it?

You need to find out if it's a Valeo or Denso system, either might be fitted. Look what brand the blower motor is, if you can access its label. With that info, and your reg number or VIN, I can probably tell you matrix PN.

Wheel cover or centre cap off should reveal it, I think, no need to take wheel off?

May also be worth measuring the diameter of the space around the nut, and making sure that the socket you buy isn't too big on its overall diameter. Vaguely remember that on a Fabia mk1 the OD of the socket mustn't be bigger than about 49mm. My memory may not be correct though, and your model may have more (or possibly even less) room. Best to check.

The switch won't be causing the fuse to blow, it is wired with thin wires that carry tiny signal currents only.

The thick red/white wires come from the fuse that's blowing to each front door module. The most likely place for that to be broken or damaged is in the rubber bellows between the car body and each front door, in the hinge area. Since the driver's door is usually opened and closed most, look at that one first. The rubber can usually be detached at the car body end and pulled back towards the door to allow inspection of the wires inside. Would someone with a similar age mk2 Octy please tell this person how to gain access, please? I don't have personal experience on this platform.

I think you may find a short between the main 12V feed coming from that fuse, and something else, possibly the main brown earth. I can't see much else causing a 30 or 35 Amp fuse to blow instantly.

Go straight to checking the wiring in the rubber bellows between door and A-pillar.

Well done, always nice to hear of a good secondhand part solving a problem. 👍

Hope you meant 505 01 for the 1.9?

I would leave that. Maybe keep some paper or cardboard under there (fixed to undertray somehow) to absorb the drips, so they don't go onto the road, or your driveway/garage. It could be worth checking the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is working correctly. This helps eliminate, or at least reduce any gas pressure in the crankcase/sump/head which makes leaks less probable. I don't know exactly how this system operates on your engine, so I can't suggest a method for checking it, but sometimes just loosening the oil filler cap while engine is idling, and observing whether it tends to be blown upward or sucked back down can give a useful indication.

The thing I was trying to describe is nothing to do with the carburettor itself, certainly nothing to do with the accelerator pump.

Ah OK, completely different arrangement with a wax thermostat acting directly on the flap? Or manual moving of the flap according to season? Maybe try to find a way to heat the carb body also.