Breezy_Pete

Camber can often be equalised, rather than individually adjusted, by moving the whole subframe relative to the body. A delicate process if you don't want to have to iterate too many times though, I think. The caster is odd though, any chance the ball joints are handed, and fitted to the wrong sides?

Citigo is the only Skoda model that has it ignition switched, as far as I am aware; all the others have it permanently live. I don't think there's an easy way to make it ignition switched on a mk3 Fabia, but hopefully some mk3 owners reading this will be able to help. I bought a switched multi-way adaptor recently that may do the job, but would require him to remember to switch it off. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CSS7DVJF Haven't actually checked that current drawn goes to zero when the red rocker switch is off, I should do so. Thought I might be able to get into it and look at the wiring, but it's well sealed.

Yes, I had a quick look at pictures of the 1.2TSI (CBZA or CBZB code?) on ebay, and there looks to be a bunch of turbo/exhaust stuff in the way of getting to the back of the alternator. It may well have to come out I should think, to access the regulator/brushpack. Have you got a multimeter with which you could measure some voltages before/after starting engine?

You're right about the MIL, shouldn't have been relevant because: "You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008." The 10 minute warning light is almost certainly either the replacement alternator wasn't compatible, the connector at the alt was not refitted, or was broken, or the DFM wire (the one that isn't blue) between alternator and ECU. If you let me know build date of car, or reg or VIN I can look up exact circuit info. Wheel arch liner removal will obviously be a good start in accessing the PAS pipes. Never got down and dirty with them myself though. Repair of what you have may be the best strategy, followed by trying to find some better condition ones from scrappies.

Cleaning the surface you can actually get at when it is removed will make no difference. You're wasting your time on a guess.

Yes, I think that's a good idea. Not sure how easy access is.

I don't think this can be the problem. In Fabias, when this wire that energises the alternator breaks, the red charge warning light stops working. I believe your experience prior to the breakdown was that it was working. Just turn on the ignition to the point where lots of warning lights self-test, and check that you see the red picture of a battery. If you do, that wire isn't broken.

Do you know what damage the cluster has?

Yeah, I'm toying with the idea of coming over to see if I can help with this. Probably lots of life left in it.

Yes; engine top cover off, and look where Alasdair suggested.

M14 I believe.

Unplug the 2-way connector if you haven't already. Bend the cat heatshield towards alt to improve access to the 8mm nut, then away from it after that's off, to give more room for the plastic cap and 13mm nut that holds positive lead on. Battery negative off before you attempt to undo that 13mm. Then don't be surprised if the alt takes a bit of levering out, with large flat screwdriver or similar, between it and block.

Timing belt covers for a DFGA engine shown here. Appears to consist of three sections, see image in link. No part number shown for item 1a, so maybe just two parts for the engine codes shown. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/1/109/109065

It's good to see 14.2V +/- 0.2 at the battery, with light or no loads switched on. It's a bit temperature dependent, so expect a higher number in cold ambient temperatures with cold engine, and lower if ambient or engine temperature is higher.

Assuming your car doesn't have start/stop, there's no coding that could be done. If the radio is Skoda original and currently working, it won't need a code after battery change. Just change the battery, it'll be fine. Recheck voltages afterwards, alternator cabling may need a bit of attention if engine-running voltage isn't higher with a good battery fitted.

Glad to read that you're back on the road. 🙂

@AdverseFabiaOwner, is yours a 6-valve or 12-valve 1.2?

Yes, possibly the too-high oil level was causing the crank to contact it and churn it into a froth. The aerated oil would be more compressible than oil should be, resulting in low pressure.

Any chance you're looking at the auxiliary belt thinking it's the timing belt?

Nearest coolant channels through the gasket may be far enough from the breach to not leak into it. Needs professional diagnosis I think really, since any major work on this engine type is going to involve a lot of hours of labour stripping stuff down, so going on a wild goose chase is likely to be costly.

Head gasket leak between 3 and 4 seems like one possible explanation, given those numbers. Resulting misfires running fuel down bore walls, spoiling sealing?

Coolant leak into alternator?? Oil cooler and various coolant hoses seem close to it. Maybe the coolant leak caused the non-charging of battery. What's the level in the tank now?

Oh, great result; thanks for reporting back. 👍

Yep, since it's plastic/soft, the rust grows into it. Can't see any penetrating fluid making much difference really. Time travel backwards is probably the best strategy.

With serration is 70Nm plus 90° Without is 200Nm plus 180° ! Note: "Vehicle must not be standing on its wheels for tightening the screw"