Breezy_Pete

Have a good look at the top surface of the carb. The circular brass bits are the top of the emulsion tubes. There should be a tiny air orifice in each. There may be debris blocking the idle one.

It's a LHD/RHD thing, manuals, stickers etc lazily not tailored to the specific market the car was built for.

Well VW group may be, but that's the RRP, so the dealership isn't.

Can you share reg number or VIN so that I can get a build date, please? There are different wiring documents for pre and post-May 2004, and it would be good to know which was more appropriate to be looking at.

No, I think that must be a wiring or connection issue.

Fuse 34, in a car with bulb failure warning, does the front left sidelight (direct) and the rear left one via bulb warning module. Since you were seeing a warning at times when the fuse was intact, I'd suggest investigating the left rear light cluster. Don't be surprised to find moisture shorting connector pins, or evidence that it has been there. The battery light and wipers are controlled by the onboard supply control unit (in front of right knee in RHD cars, above accelerator pedal). If trouble remains once the fuse 34 thing is sorted, maybe try swapping in another of identical part number. For info, the battery light working at all means the blue excitation wire for the alternator is intact. You correctly state that if the load sense wire (the other, non-blue one) is broken on cars with ASR, you tend to get that warning light appear after 10 minutes running.

Just look at the metal inside the fuse to see if it has ruptured. Or try a new fuse.

I don't believe the clutch release bearing turns at all when the clutch pedal is not pressed.

Replied to your message. Appears to have immobiliser only. Less to go wrong. 🙂

There appears to be only one metallic contact in each of those slots, implying that even if fuses were there, they would do nothing. So, either the car has no alarm, or it uses different fuse positions. If you share reg number or VIN I could look up whether it was built without an alarm.

If the autel thing successfully connected to the engine ECU, vcds probably won't do more.

Check fuse 26 (15 amp).

On mk1 there's a fuse failure, and not the obvious one, which takes out both wipers and washers, I'll try to find the equivalent on early mk2. Wiper relay problem does not affect washers.

Fuse 7 feeds the ignition coils on your car, I've just established, which may or may not help. VCDS lite will indeed work on this car, allowing fault codes to be read from the engine ECU (or any other module) if any are stored.

You have identified pin 16 correctly on the diagnostic socket, by the way. You can see that only 8 of the orifices have contacts in, pin 1 bottom right in your pic - ignition switched 12V pins 4 and 5, leftwards from there, 0V/earths pin 6, CANH pin 7, K line pin 14, CANL pin 15, L line to airbag control unit pin 16, permanent 12V I may watch your video later if I find somewhere with better internet.

Sorry, I didn't make myself completely clear, I think. I wasn't suggesting direct attempts to probe the comms. What I meant was, remove fuse 50, do all the stuff to make the car think it is all closed up, wait at least 30 minutes after, then repeat your mV across fuses measurements. If those that showed activity before now don't, you can probably conclude that in the absence of the radio, everything else shuts down properly.

I believe if the engine ECU doesn't get a valid signal from the crank sensor it will stop enabling the fuel pump relay. Not saying it is that, but it may be one possibility. When attempting and failing to start it, does the rev counter indicate anything? (If it has one). The fuse 7 business seems like it could be a clue; can you share the reg number or VIN to allow me to look up further info. In a rubbish WiFi environment presently though, so can't say when I may be able to investigate.

Is this car new to you, or has it been running OK and now this?

Hello, yes, that's all consistent with needing a repair to driver's side module. I will send you a private message shortly with some options.

Yes, should be always parallel as their sprockets are same size and driven by same chain. Chain has jumped a fair bit. Surprised that the compression test didn't appear to show bent valves. I can't picture how that can be the case.

Message me with the VIN or reg number please.

If you remove fuse 50, then look at what is/isn't fully shutting down in test condition 3, I think you could probably blame the radio itself if everything then goes quiet.

Nice one, sorry for the initial bum steer on fuse location.

Stick a 5 Amp fuse in where that shows number 8, and see if all comes good? Edit: (If you saw the previous version of this reply, please ignore it, I was being daft, rotating things wrongly in my head!)