Breezy_Pete

Please note that the wiring info even in the later of the two documents there may not be a perfect match for your car, which being 2005 will be a facelift model. I think the later document amongst those only goes up to the end of pre-facelift. Feel free to ask if anything seems different to what you find on the car. erWin Skoda can be used to download the more recent circuit pdfs, for a small fee.

Check prices at Tayna.co.uk, you may find they're significantly better.

How many more years might the car be kept? Operationally, they'll seem indistinguishable IMO.

Another log this morning, on arrival after 35 minute drive to work has me wondering if the measured torsion value might be maxing out at -1.5. (VCDS says -3 to +3 when you hover over the box, but...) Engine doesn't warm up properly to 90 due I think to thermostat not closing fully (new, genuine replacement a few months back), but the behaviour when mostly warm differs in that a throttle blip now doesn't reduce the negativity by 0.5. Torsion number just sits solid on -1.5. Or could it be that the disappointing economy is just related to the engine temperature not getting above about 80°C at the moment; I wonder? Planning to revisit thermostat over the holiday. LOG-01-004-012-013.xlsx

A large quantity of useful info is available here, including wiring info: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

1. No Wiring goes from stalk switch to fuses 30 and 23 (both 10 amp fuses) for left and right main beam bulbs respectively. Check for voltage at these two fuseholders when main beam is selected on stalk. 1.2 Yes, e.g. ebay, but why do you think it needs replacement. Minor config coding required if it is changed, unless with an identical part number including suffix, and from a same-model car with exactly the same features. 2. Check bulbs first if you haven't. This thread has info on bulb types as well as fuses. The MkI Fabia Fuse Layout Post *updated with bulb types* - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA 3. Yes, with VCDS or registered copy of VCDS Lite, if that is what is happening. The self locking when parked (if a door has been opened since unlocking with button on keyfob) suggests there may be a problem with recognition of the door having been opened. This is often caused by problems with the microswitch, its wiring, or the solder joints of the connector on the lock module, on the side of the car where door opening isn't being 'seen'. Auto locking when in motion is related to a minimum speed being achieved (15kph?), rather than a time since departure; so a very slow crawl away from standstill may help to decide if it is or isn't the autolock function. 4. VCDS Lite, freeware downloadable from here: Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite Download together with a laptop to put it on, and a third-party FTDI/KKL interface cable.

Interesting. Sounds like attempting to tweak that towards 0.0 just now might be a waste of time, unless I've got time and inclination to do a load of experimenting. Thanks again.

Ta. Think I might need to do some basics over the Christmas break, like checking that the belt isn't a whole tooth out, having a look at the cam and the injector loom. Partner stalled it twice this morning without doing anything silly, so there's definitely something significantly amiss. I'd better grab a gasket for the cam cover. Thanks for the support.

The log has a couple of minutes more data, including a few blips of the throttle, which as per a youtube video I watched first, briefly reduces the torsion value to -1.0 each blip. Not much else seemed to vary.

Thanks mainly to @Golf-Fiend and @SuperbTWM in another thread that has become a bit polluted; I've just grabbed some data that appears to show an issue with the timing, not sure how bad, but probably worth tweaking. Injector deviations also logged briefly, at or near idle, with warmish but <50°C engine. I'm not sure what engine temps are best for logging either torsion value or deviations. Anyone know if that -1.5 needs a clockwise or anticlockwise turn of the cam to reduce towards zero, please?

We being who? Many rainforests round your 'neck of the woods'? How much pressure do you think you can put on countries with significant amounts of rainforest, realistically? It's sweet that you think they just haven't realised, and now you've told them what to do all will be well.

How?

The problem with Ken's chemistry is that he neglects to mention that the oxygen comes mixed with rather a lot of nitrogen.

👋 Hello.

Yes, 10-30mA territory is probably more what you should see. Dashcams plugged into outlets that stay on permanently are notorious for this problem.

No, just one that looks at intake cam. Link in my previous post shows enough about checking timing, I hope, though you might need to read a bit as well as look at the pics. You don't need timing tools to check, just eyeballs.

My first thread about it needs the pics rescuing cos photobucket stole them, but this one will probably give you enough idea: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/507743-low-power-sluggish/#comment-5701026

Oh, in that case I do know how to check the chain timing, but just visiting someone so won't be able to do much for an hour or two. I've posted the relevant photos several times so searching the mk1 Fabia forum may get you there.

Previous owner said he'd replaced all glowplugs yes. I should probably check them anyway. Yes, smoky start up. Will try to check torsion business tomorrow. Thanks. Edit, just arrived after a 3.5 hour cross country trek with it, and the journey average mpg was 53 ish, so there's probably not too much wrong. Want more to make it viable though. Going back to my Polo is seeming pretty tempting just now.

I'm away from resources for a few hours, but off the top of my head, I'd expect the 3 wires at the cam sensor connector to be Earth, +5V and signal output. The 5V will only be present with ignition switched on, possibly ony with engine running, try both. Earths are typically brown or brown with another trace colour. Tell us what colours you have at the connector. Not sure what you'll measure on the signal output wire, but verifying the 5V and earth is a good start. Maybe look for YouTube videos or Google results for checking chain timing on the 6-valve HTP engines too.

@SuperbTWM I did log deviations yesterday on my morning commute, start and end of anyway. Was wondering the same, how does the ECU know what's actually been injected each time, as opposed to what should have been? Busy today, but might get a chance to pop a graph to tomorrow. There were some deviations beyond ÷/-1, but only when driving, and only early in journey (2 or 3 minutes in, up a sheepish hill), not when just idling. It does also start poorly when warm, and also after a few days of non-usage, so leaking may be going on. @Graham Butcher NOx isn't measured at MOT in the UK. On diesels, opacity/smoke is the only thing measured.

Timing chain jumps are also possible on the HTP engines, both types. Can result in cam sensor fault codes, not sure about misfires. If it is still misfiring, there ought to be a fault code for that too? Maybe just running very badly rather than misfiring as such? That might point toward chain jump too.

I wouldn't want to try oils on plastic, might make them swell up and get tighter.

That code is for camshaft, not crankshaft sensor problem. I guess that's what you actually changed? On top of rocker cover, rather than down the back of engine block? Yes, wiring fault is very possible. On the back of the car, where it says HTP, are all the letters black? If so that's the single cam engine. Twin cam HTPs have a red P.

Is this the 54 bhp, single cam version of 1.2 HTP? If so I would always recommend a compression test if misfires occur despite new plugs and coilpacks. What fault code number is the crankshaft code?