Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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Just block off that other part of the v shape fitting. Edit, or just try moving the EGR connection onto that one and see if the other one is sucking or not.
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The connector for the oil pressure switch (green plastic body, last photo) looks very oily on the outside of it? I think that is leaking and needs replacing. That should solve the oil pressure light fault, I think. The vent pipes should be as follows, I believe, and there should be nothing on the v-shape part where the blue tape pipe is. Green square to green square (air intake for rocker cover) Red square to red square (pressure equalising feed to EGR valve)
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Only if you tell me the reg plate number or VIN.
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I can't see where the pipe is connecting, at the end with blue tape. Take the engine cover off for a better view of everything. Is the oil light yellow (low level) or red (low pressure)? If it is red try unplugging the 1-wire connector for the pressure switch (right in front of you with engine cover off) to see if it has leaked oil inside.
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Windscreen washer nozzles are likely to have local connectors at the individual nozzles, probably easily spotted and disconnected.
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Hardcopy manuals struggle to keep up with changes over time.
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From May 2012 fuse 9 is listed as the following: 9 - Fuse 9 on fuse holder B -SB9- 5A - Control unit for cornering light and headlight range control -J745- , Air conditioning system control unit -J301- , Climatronic control unit -J255- , Radiator fan control unit -J293- , Parking aid control unit -J446- , Heater element for left spray jet -Z20- , Heater element for right spray jet -Z21- , Multi-function steering wheel, Steering angle sender -G85 So you'll need to find which of those consumers is causing it to blow, fix that and you should be good. If the car has heated washer jets try unplugging those for starters.
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This is a method worth trying
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Does the car have start/stop? If not, an AGM battery isn't the right type. Have you come across measuring current by measuring mV across fuses?
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Parts catalogue says 6Q0411105BF. 👍 £105.50 + VAT each at Skoda dealers, for reference.
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Reg number or VIN would allow me to look up for you.
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Seemed to be the face seal to block that failed there, rather than the pump itself. Only 10 years old too.
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That ^ water pump had hardly leaked at all compared with this one, on my Polo (this week's cambelt job!)
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The wiring to the two camshaft control valves N205, N318 shares a 12V feed from engine bay fuse #9 (10A), which also supplies the 'continued coolant circulation pump' V51, the purge valve N80, and exhaust flap control units J883 and J945. Replacing the fuse with all of these unplugged, and reconnecting one by one until the fuse blew again was presumably the diagnostic strategy.
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OK so that should be a 6Y2959802 part on driver's side (assuming a RHD vehicle). Is it the original motor module there, as far as you know? Please could you describe what is and isn't working. The usual problem causes both windows to stop working completely, or intermittently for a while first; but it sounds like you may have something different?
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I use partslink24, but it ain't free. Your VIN gives two results, the 6Q0711202J, which it says was dropped on 1st Aug 2009, with the comment "Please contact your dealer for the parts interpretation" The other one is 6Q0711202L, dropped on 1st Jan 2012 and superseded by 6R0711202A. I suspect this may be what you get.
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Stat and green dual sender both ordered from ebay seller sasauto, a couple of weeks apart, without me noticing it was same seller.
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I'll have to look back and check. Not over a parts counter at Audi, so possibly both suspect.
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Yes, I think so. Any model where the bellows goes straight across between A-pillar and door is problematic. Absence of a vertical dogleg means that the loom has to bend every time the door moves. In Mk1 Fabia, 9N Polos etc there's a significant vertical dogleg, making it possible for that vertical bit of loom to take the movement by twisting along its length instead.
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Finished it off Saturday morning. I have to be honest. I was very nervous when firing it up. All was well though. Logging suggests that the torsion value is now mostly +1, flicking to +0.5 at times. Running waaay better, I think. No smoke even when booting it, no stinky exhaust smell at idle. Temperature is strange though. I changed the green dual thermistor (what a mission that was!), and removed and refitted the stat while coolant was drained. End result, VCDS of engine coolant sensor, and dash indication both lower than they were! Disconnected the fan for my way home just in case that was spinning spuriously; no better. Oil temp showed higher though, but topping out at about 80 while coolant barely got above 60 according to G62 and dash gauge. Makes me think latest allegedly genuine CTS may be dodgy. Or stat is not working at all for reasons unknown. Baffling. I must dig out my IR thermometer for an independent measure of engine/coolant temp.
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I'd be about 99% sure it'll be driver's side motor module needing repair or replacement. Wouldn't bother checking wiring at door bellows, it's a better design on mk1 Fabia than on a lot of the later models. Message me about repair options if you wish @JohnnyG7uk.
