Breezy_Pete

Listed where? It isn't in the tables of fuse allocations in Skoda official wiring as far as I can see. Check a bulb, unless you are certain that they were all working recently.

I can't see fuse 23 being involved, that appears to be for interior lights. Have a look at fuse 17 instead.

@Neily03 makes a valid point.

Good question. My first clutch job was on Jen's Fabia, between Christmas and New Year six or seven years back. Had a very low roofed open-ended garage to work in, with a flimsy tent bit across the front to keep the snow off cos the front of the car had to be outside a bit to have enough height. So much fun... 😆

Have you come across Kevin Albert Williams on youtube? Mobile clutch mechanic. This one must be very similar to yours:

Just seen another interesting one, after watching this guy on the subject of farmer's inheritance tax, which is also a good listen.

No worries. It's a common error thinking that the suffixes on part numbers are 'just a revision level' or whatever. So much so that I made a little thread about it once. Sometimes they are, but often they're not.

Take your time with the driveshaft screws, make sure you have full tool engagement in the heads, don't want to round any off. From memory, there are two bolts low down that go from engine side into bellhousing that need exhaust to get out of the way, and there's another midway up the rear side that comes from offside direction, may be hard to spot.

LLL one is genuine too. I've used them a few times, without problems.

£100 each probably including delivery here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/5Q0513029ST/skoda-gas-shock-absorber-5q0513029st? Delivery can be a little slow with this lot though, but then Skoda-parts.com would be too, cos coming from Czech.

Extremely wise to be worried about that. If you let me know the VIN, I can look and see if there's a previous correct version listed, that's been superseded by the suffix NA, which may be more recognisable by the aftermarket.

That's what I was expecting I might find. a number with 513 in the middle sounds right. The suffix NA is crucial, that's often the only thing that's different between all the different versions.

You don't have to drain oil if you leave the drive flanges in. Can be hard to get driver's side one out/in past the various obstructions when removing and replacing box. But you could drain it by removing that flange once it's out if you found it tricky removing the box with it still on. Driveshafts can stay in wheel bearings, but ensure you tie them up well out the way. I spent a while once not realising that the nearside shaft was getting in my way during refitting of the box, cos it had moved from where I had lodged it.

Reg number or VIN would let me check your rear part number.

Has a compression test been done at any point?

You'll have to excuse my hieroglyphics.

Position of cabin relay carrier in car for RHD vaguely indicated as 1 here, probably need to remove some lower dash trim from beneath the steering wheel to access. Relay layout shown here, with 4 and 11b marked up by me: Position 4 houses X contact relay J59, position 11b has X-contact relay 2, J339 The circuit diagram for these is a little strange, but as far as I can make out, the one in position 11b is energised when ignition is on, but not when cranking. This supplies one connection pole of the light switch which supplies the dipped beams, but also drives the coil of the other relay, in position 4, which powers both the blower motor and another connection of the light switch. So if J339 in position 11b isn't working right, it will disable the dipped beams, and the other relay, supplying the blower. Maybe it has just become loose? Fuse 19, that I suggest you double check, supplies the coil power to J339, when ignition switch is on (but not cranking).

I'll have another look at wiring diags shortly. Should have a location for relay panel.

From what I remember of the relay panel layout, position 11 is subdivided into two half-width relay positions, labelled 11.1 and 11.2, or 11a and 11b? Not near a computer this second to double-check. Got a photo of what you're finding?

@jo0lz Or a warning light on the dash, which you can enable with a simple soft coding change to the onboard supply control unit. The unit picks up the change in circuit impedance from the added indicator bulbs, and flashes this second dash light if indicating whilst trailer is connected. No need for anything to be added.

Perhaps the latch on the connector is broken, so it is not being held positively in full engagement?

No, it comes as a complete assembly.

24mm ARB. 👍

Check cabin fuse 19, rated 7.5 Amp before doing anything else. Does the car have start/stop? I'd guess not.

Gimme the reg number or VIN and I can find it for you.