Breezy_Pete

@Jocko, yes I expect that's the difference.

Firstly I think there's only one lambda/oxygen sensor. Are you used to petrol engines? Here's a webpage showing the two different options for LHD (L0L) and RHD (L0R), as the last two item 1 part numbers. Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts What makes you thing it has a problem?

Read this: Energy management.pdf

He may well be wrong. Expensive mistake if it tests the same after replacement. In start/stop cars with EFB or AGM batteries, the output voltage of the alternator is variable, and will not measure 'good' according to a tester that is expecting a traditional wet battery system.

On what basis? Many people, including garages, don't understand how alternators work with start/stop battery systems.

I don't think so. Older versions of the car used normal hexagon-head bolts instead of rivets, so there's space above there. Unfortunately, the captive nuts the bolts went into aren't there on facelift cars. Whatever screws you use musn't go so far in that they interfere with the glass, for the ones along top of panel.

What fault code was presented? I would expect the fault code to indicate which sensor was involved, in English the fault descriptions would include 'bank 1 sensor 1' for the upstream one, and 'bank 1 sensor 2' for the downstream one. I don't know if cleaning can be any use: I guess it depends whether the small holes in the outer 'box' around the sensor element are blocked. Fault codes for lambda sensors also can be caused by problems elsewhere in the engine, or the air pipework, instead of being problems with the sensors themselves.

Two; one in the top of the exhaust manifold, one in the front exhaust section close to where it attaches to the bottom of the catalytic converter (which is welded to underside of exhaust manifold). Not really maintenance items though; is there a problem you are trying to solve?

Might be interesting to have a looksee, thanks, will PM you this afternoon.

On closer scrutiny, there's a non-return valve right at the servo, in the bit at the end of the vacuum pipe that plugs in through a grommet. Will have to wrestle that out and test it.

Very sure Graham. @PetrolDave what do you think about the lack of residual servo vacuum, please? (On second thoughts, perhaps you don't drive diesels, going by the username. 😆) Just been examining pipework and the one non-return valve I could get to reasonably easily (down near turbo actuator), but nothing found to be amiss so far.

Hit an indicated 62mpg at the end of this morning's commute, new record. On ordinary Tesco diesel too. Tail wind, I feel sure. In other news. Minor collision one evening last week, luckily going rather slowly down a hill in a 20 zone. Thought for a horrific half-second that it was a dog that had run out in front of me. The thing got up and made it across the rest of the road, and stood on four legs on the pavement, now looking very Muntjac-like, fortunately. Muntjac 1, OSF foglight 0. Could have been so much worse. Put a nearly new tyre sourced from ebay onto my spare wheel, then swapped it onto car on Saturday, I now have four tyres that match, albeit not brilliantly on tread depth uniformity. Spare is a full size matching alloy. Had reason to move the car down the gently sloping driveway yesterday (away from house) without starting it up, and noticed two things while doing so. 1. It's bleeding heavy to steer even slightly minus the PAS (engine driven hydraulic). 2. There was zero residual servo vacuum. Double-checked that just now, that can't be right, right?

Self tappers should be fine on the panel.

That repair loom doesn't resemble what would work on a mk1 or mk2 Fabia, unless maybe on a rear door? I've misunderstood, haven't I. You're meaning for the tailgate?

Yes, and should go back up if key held the other way.

Think it's more related to temperature than moisture.

Source of the above, https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/8-nuisance#section-8-2-2 Unfortunately there's a sentence even further down the page than what I quoted, referring to retests after fails on emissions at plate figure. Retests must be done at same figure. Has to be said though, there appears to be a lot of variability in how these tests are really done 'at the coal face'.

This is the exact wording of the test manual, for diesels of around this age. I'm not surprised that some testers don't get it right if they skim read straight to "For vehicles first used before..." Before the test, check the maximum smoke level limit for the vehicle and enter the required details into the diesel smoke meter. The maximum smoke level limit will be the level displayed on the manufacturer’s plate; or where there is no manufacturer’s plate information: For vehicles first used before 1 July 2008, the maximum level is: 2.5m-1 for a non-turbocharged engine 3.0m-1 for a turbocharged engine For vehicles first used between 1 July 2008 and 31 December 2013 the maximum level is 1.5m-1 for all engines.

My A4 has a plate figure of 0.7, currently easily legible...

This time they used the plate figure, so 0.8 was what the car had to achieve.

No harm in having a look inside. Find 6 flattish things to get under all 6 clips at once for an easy time disassembling it. Stick some photos up of the circuit board. I'll see if I have a spare.

Ignore that, they are the same for all on RHD pre-facelift by the looks of parts list - 6Q2959802A?

Guess not. Bit rare, the 4 window version unfortunately.

For pre-facelift cars with all four windows electric, the crucial earth to the switchpack is a brown wire that connects pin 11 of the 16-way at the switchpack connector to pin 9 of the black 12-way at the window motor. It's also shown as splicing into an earth wire in the door loom (marked 267 in circuit). Without that none of the switches nor backlighting will work.