Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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There are definitely some other threads on the forum with similar issues. I think if you search for the phrase "Reduced oil pressure switch" you may come across them and find useful info from others' experiences.
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Your engine has three oil pressure switches, I believe; do you know which one was changed?
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Time is so valuable for you Graham, that you find giant wodges of it every day to post in this thread.
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Servo vac hose for your car is still available from Skoda, part number 6Q2 612 041 CD, £41.65 + VAT at a Skoda dealer's parts counter. Can you see where it's leaking? Generally from cracks at junctions of hard plastic sections. Repair (shorten and refit) may be possible with help from hot air to soften.
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No, brake servo is the big black round thing just behind the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder. Maybe we're talking about a different vac hose?
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Reg plate number or VIN could allow me to research things a bit for you (tomorrow).
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The shut off code tells you why the compressor has been disabled, assuming this is what happens after 30 minutes running. That information should be very helpful in fixing it. Codes are in that link to Ross-tech forums that I gave earlier. Measuring value group 2, field 1 is apparently where the shut off code is found.
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- air conditioner
- bcm
- compressor
- ecm
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No, you don't run scans, you just connect to module 08 (HVAC) and look at measuring block data, live. One channel of this will be "Comprossor shut off code" (With that spelling error in compressor, if I remember right).
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- air conditioner
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Is that the fuel filter mounted just below it? If so, that seems a bit scary since those pressure sensors have been known to get so hot that they melt. I don't know much about the unconnected hose, but I think it would be connected downstream of the DPF if it were connected, which ought to be close to atmospheric pressure as long as the remaining exhaust parts aren't blocked. Having it unconnected just means that the pressure upstream of the DPF is compared to atmospheric pressure via the open hose. The sensors do fail quite often, so that may be what the fault code is telling you. I don't know what else to suggest except perhaps to make sure the wiring to it looks undamaged.
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VCDS Lite, the freeware version should work on your car. Download it via ross-tech.com website. You then need a (cheap, generic) KKL/FTDI cable to connect laptop and car together.
- 30 replies
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- air conditioner
- bcm
- compressor
- ecm
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The climate control module will have the 'shutoff code' available to be read by an appropriate scan tool, if it is connected at a time when the A/C is not cooling, I think. Lots of info here: Tis’ the HVAC Season | Ross-Tech Forums
- 30 replies
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- air conditioner
- bcm
- compressor
- ecm
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Probably intentionally not connected. Appears to be no sign of any hose clip having been on that loose end? Many engines leave that port open to atmosphere.
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What colour is the oil warning light you're seeing? Level sensor only triggers a yellow warning light, pressure switch is what triggers red. Pressure switch failure is often accompanied by oil within its single-wire connector.
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I suspect that would fit, but you would lose the electronic control function, cos that doesn't get mentioned in the description there.
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Part number is usually repeatedly written along the hard plastic sections of the hose. Brake servo end goes to the brake servo. 🤔 If you tell me reg number or VIN I could look up part number for you.
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The second and third photos show the top mount (or bearing part of it) no longer at the top.
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You could plough through all the relevant pages here, https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs to find a spring with matching paint marks. Or PM me the VIN.
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"I'm not anti-EV" you say; yet every chance you ever get to try to knock them, you jump at it. It's pretty funny, really.
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Nope, but alt 0176 (on numeric keypad area) does it.
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New to climate control and haven't really learnt how to work it yet, but currently the passenger side is set to 19°C, driver's side 20°C. If anyone wants to copy and paste my ° symbols, you're most welcome.
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Sorry for delay. Your car was built on 26 May 2011, so I'd expect the 'From May 2011' pdf to apply for the circuits, CDAA engine code. Yours was built on 21st April '11, so the previous pdf (May 2007 >) should have the best circuit info. Do either of you need any further assistance? Looks like you might have found what you needed while I was spinning/showering/eating.
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Hope so; but my optimism doesn't stretch to imagining that the inlet valves look more like the second photo than the first. The throttle valve looks a lot better, upstream of the soot source, but still getting a clean later.
