Liger1956

I would look carefully at the wires in the rubber boot joining the car body to the boot door. These can fracture with age due to being flexed every time the boot is opened. You will have to pull back the rubber boot from each end to see all of the length of the wires.

I have owned my Facelift 2012 Skoda Octavia 2.0L CR TDi with a 103kW CFHC engine since it was new. I have just serviced it and when I checked with my genuine Ross Tech VCDS software it has thrown up a fault with No. 4 glow plug. I cleared the fault but it came back. I have checked the resistance of the glow plug and it is reading about 45 ohm whilst No. 3 glow plug reads 0.3 ohm. It still starts OK but may not be so willing when the colder weather arrives so I want to change all of the glow plugs before then. I am a reasonably competent DIY mechanic and I have serviced and repaired all of my cars including engine rebores and rebuilds. How easy is it to replace the glow plugs and are there any things that I should watch out for? I understand that a deep 10mm socket is required with plenty of Plus Gas and a hot engine but I have read some horror stories of broken glow plugs and stripped threads in the head. Am I also correct in assuming (which is a very dangerous thing) that all of the glow plugs are the same and that on my engine there is not one with a pressure sensor?

I am confused between LED, OLED & QOLED. Further research is needed as is setting a realistic budget.

Thanks for all of the replies. It gives me food for thought. We are not in a tearing hurry to replace our Panasonic plasma so we can do some research and look for the best deals.

I know that this has been discussed before but as technology moves on at a pace these days I thought that I needed up to date advice. We have a 2009 Panasonic TX-P37X10B Plasma TV connected to a Panasonic DMR-PWT520 Blu Ray Player/Hard Disc Recorder which we use frequently to record live TV to watch later. We can use the Hard Disk Recorder remote to work the TV which is nice. If we forget to set the Hard Disk Recorder we also use apps on our phones to view free on demand services such as iPlayer through a Chromecast dongle. We do not use any paid for streaming services such as Netflix or watch many movies. Although the TV still works, and heats the room up, we are looking at buying a new "Smart" TV with apps inbuilt to avoid having to use our phones and the Chromecast dongle. It would have to be about the same physical size as the existing 37" Panasonic although as that has a wide bezel the new TV would have a larger screen of about 40". The Panasonic is only 720p so is it worth buying a 4K TV for future proofing? I am interested in peoples recommendations as to whether it is better to stick to big names such as Panasonic, LG, Philips etc. or whether some of the newer brands are better value for money. We are not audiophiles but we would like good sound quality and as we are getting on in years a decent volume range. The TV backs up to a solid wall not curtains. I am also interested whether the apps on Smart TVs can be updated indefinitely or whether there is a likelihood in the future that the apps will not be able to be run due to hardware/software constraints. In that case would we be better in buying a "Non Smart" TV and a dongle that can be updated? I understand that there is a large number of TVs out there which can be mind boggling so any views will be gratefully received (even if we eventually ignore them!).

I have had a trackace http://www.trackace.co.uk/ for many years. It is relatively easy to use however all of my cars that I checked have been within tolerance so I have not had to do any adjustments.

From the Ross-Tech site:- "VCDS-Lite is our low cost solution for older (pre-2006) VW-Audi Group cars that do not require a direct CAN diagnostic connection." As your car is a 2012 year that could be the reason.

Just before we met my brother and sister in law last Friday her Audi A1 DSG gearbox failed. They were driving normally and all of a sudden they had no drive and no error lights on the dash. Luckily I had a Bluetooth dongle and Carista on my phone and I did a scan. Although Carista could not communicate with the gearbox it found the following codes. Basic OBD2: P0841 (Pending) - Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Range/Performance U0415 (Pending) - Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module CAN network gateway: 03041 - Energy management active Engine: 04278 - Invalid Data Received From: Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module 04675 - ABS Control Module: Check DTC memory ABS: 00401 - Left front ABS wheel speed sensor: mechanical malfunction 00402 - Right front ABS wheel speed sensor: mechanical malfunction Airbags: 12850432 - Invalid Data Received From: Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module Infotainment system: 03455 - Function limitation due to received malfunction value Heater & air conditioning: 01316 - ABS control module: Please read DTC 01317 - Instrument cluster control module: Please read DTC Also the dash now has ABS and ESP lights lit. The battery was changed in October this year so some codes may be from that. Has anyone any ide what is wrong? Also does anyone know of a good DSG specialist around Bourne near Peterborough as Audi want about £300 just to plug in their code reader.

How did he get the clamp off?

We have something like this in both our cars https://www.screwfix.com/p/rac-telescopic-wheel-wrench-17-19mm . The locking wheel nut key fits into the 17mm socket and provided that you are careful and press the key into the bolt it works well. It has a good moment arm to get undone wheel bolts that have been done up stupidly tight by fast fit places.

You really need to get the car scanned with something like VCDS, Carista or OBD11 to see which bulb is causing the problem. However as I own a MkII Octavia my money is on it being a faulty connection on one of the DRL bulbs. In my experience the brass plate that connects to the rear of the bulb wears through the solder and can cause a bulb out warning to trigger even though the bulb does light.

Did you find who did it?

I remember pre-mobile phones when you had to get information from the reference library, ask your parents to use the landline phone (only during cheap rate and for local calls) and knocking on your mates door to see if they were playing out. I even remember having a party line on the phone and having to ask the operator to connect a call.

The links do not work for me.

Sorry i did not understand the problem. Now that i have seen the photo can you get a generic coiled lead with the correct number of cores and re-solder it both ends?

A friend of mine 3D printed a focus grip for his Canon lens out of flexible TPU. I don't know whether that would work in your case but there are companies that will print things for you. I have a 3D printer but I have not printed anything in TPU yet

What happens when you twist the reset button the opposite way to adjusting the clock? I get a spanner symbol and the miles and days to service. However if it has just been recently reset I still get the spanner symbol but the miles and days are both dashes. My car does not have Maxidot. If yours has then your display may be different.

You should be able to find out when the car thinks that the next service is due by twisting the trip reset button between the tachometer cane speedometer either clockwise or anti-clockwise I forget which but one way allows you to reset the clock and the other should show the mike's and days to next service. However, after reading your post, the garage could have reset the service interval but not done the work. Did your itemised bill list the parts and labour costs for the service?

I have a spare Bolero which was originally fitted to my 2012 Octavia II. If you are near to Stockport and can pick it up you are welcome to borrow it to test whether it solves your battery drain problem. I do not know what year your car is but I seem to remember that fitting a later model radio to an earlier model car without updating the BCM will result in battery drain as @J.R. has said so it is worth checking that fitting my spare radio will not also drain your battery even though it worked correctly in my car.

I am confused. You said that the starter motor would turn over but the "mechanic" says that the engine is seized! If the engine was seized then, in my opinion, the starter motor would not be able to turn it.

Welcome to the forum. However I think that your maths is wrong as a 2014 car owned for 13 years makes us living in 2027!

Mazda CX- 5

At the same MOT Station? Did you get a fail certificate the first time? If so what did it say?

What does the failure certificate actually say and under what code? The MOT testers handbook https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-2 gives you the criteria for a pass and a fail.

What country was it imported from?