Liger1956

J.R. is correct the 12N socket has no permanent live but the 12S should have one on pin 4 and an earth on pin 3. There is also an earth on pin 7 which is a high current one for the fridge when towing.

We are currently updating our kitchen with new units and appliances. I want to replace the Roberts DAB/FM radio with something that will use internet radio as the DAB quality where we live is not very good on some stations so we are currently listening to radio on FM. Positioning of the FM aerial is unsightly and I want something that looks cleaner although the kitchen the environment will always cause things to eventually acquire a sticky layer of dust so being able to clean the outside would be useful. We listen to the BBC radio channels as well as local radio such as Imagine Radio. I am considering the Sonos One Gen 2 which has both Alexa and Google Home built in but I would welcome members views on the subject. The only other "Smart" device that we have is the Gen 1 Hive Heating so we have nothing else for a smart speaker to connect to and our music is on CDs. I quite like the idea of using voice commands to change radio stations but it also must be easy to turn the microphone off as well for privacy.

I do not know whether the actual wiper motors are the same but the complete units are different, at least on the facelift versions. On the hatchback the washer pipe goes through the wiper spindle whilst on the estate it is mounted at the top of the door.

Good for him. I am impressed. Hopefully he should sleep well tonight. Does he want to make running with Dad a regular occurrence?

It us a long time since I used a 555 but here ate my thoughts. If you are using your second modified circuit then you need to connect the trigger pin (2) to ground temporarily to start the timing and connect that pin via a resistor, as per the first circuit, to the +ve rail otherwise it will float between high and low and give strange results. Do that and see whether the output is consistent. You could build the first circuit and make sure that it works with a push button before modifying it. If you are using polarised capacitors make sure that they are the correct way round. I do not know how your capacitor setup will react as I have never done them in series and parallel at the same time. I would suggest that you just use a 470uf capacitor to start with in order to make trouble shooting easier.

Which of the 2 circuits that you put in your first post have you built? Can you please explain exactly what you want the circuit to output in therms of of high and low states and timings from startup? What are you using to check the output? Are you keepimg the output current below 200mA? Does the chip get hot when it is running?

Surely the 2000uA is what the 555 will draw internally from the 12v battery when it is directly connected, not including the output current, and it will not need current limiting. I have used these ICs in various circuits in the past on various voltages and I gave never used a current limiting resistor. The value that you really need to be concerned about is the maximum output current so that you do not overload the chip or overheat it if it us in an enclosure.

I think that you will find that, normally, the cheaper the drone the worse that the videos and photos will be. John999boy's Mavic Pro has a good camera and stabilisation system. There is a lot of dubious advertising on the number of pixels that these cameras have and a lot of the cheaper offerings extrapolate the higher resolutions (usually very badly).

OBDEleven and Carista are VAG friendly mobile applications that use a bluetooth dongle. What is your budget?

@gadgetmanI have been flying model planes for many years and multirotor craft since they became available to build and solder at home. "Drones" is a term now used in the legislation to include both fixed wing and multirotor unmaned flying models. When I first started doing Aerial Photography, with some of the first affordable compact cameras in a fixed wing model, the general public were genuinely interested in what I was doing. These days most people seem very atagonistic when they see you flying a multirotor in the countryside and they do not see the irony of them taking photos of you, with their mobile phones, in order for them to complain about you taking photos of them from hundreds of feet away. You therefore need a good appreciation of the current rules and I am still trying to get my head around them. Having said that many places and organisations such as the National Trust, English Heritage, many Councils, most tourist places and landowners have banned the use of drones on their land. Class A1 is:- A1 (fly over people). This applies to low risk drones because of their weight being less than 250g, their construction or because they are a toy (designed for use in play by children under 14). However, flights over open-air assemblies are not permitted. In my opinion this means that you cannot fly in built up areas in which people are walking about but only accidently over one or two people. Also the control range of Class C0 drones is 50m max and they must be certified to 2009/48/EC as a toy. CAP2007 gives more details http://publicapps.caa.co.uk/docs/33/CAP2007_EU_Drone_Rules_Factsheet_V7 5.pdf This is a good video summerising the new rules but as always until the rules are tested in a court of law there will always be differing opinions. I am sorry if this is a bit of a ramble and it looks like I am trying to put you off buying a drone but I wanted to make you aware that it is becoming increasingly more difficult to find places, and suitable weather as the lighter the drone the calmer conditions it needs, to fly them.

If you read the rules then you will find that drones below 250g with cameras still have restrictions on them. You will also, as I understand it, have to register as an operator with the CAA. The BMFA has some good information. Remember that cheap and good quality do not often come together.

How have the electrics been wired on your Scout? Has the dedicated proper module been used and then coded or has a cheaper method been used e.g. a universal bypass relay?

Have you checked the fuses under the bonnet as well as those at the end of the dash?

It might help people more knowledgeable than me if you told us what model and year the car was.

It is worth checking yourself how much friction material is left on the pads, measuring the discs thickness and then checking those figures with the Skoda minimums. I do my own servicing and I check them every time. However the Skoda minimum figures are just that and it may be prudent to change them before they get that low just like I never run tyres down to the legal minimum of 1.6mm tread depth. You also need to check whether the pads are contacting the discs all the way across the disc. I have had advisories about disc pitting on a few recent MOT's but the garage said that it was nothing to worry about. I consider brakes, along with tyres, to be very important for safety. As my Dad always says "Never start something that you cannot stop"!

You could decide to go "smooth" all the time 😁

That is good to hear. I hope that you get a good night's sleep (spud Jr. permitting).

Remember that you will have to purge the system and have some samples tested before you are given the confirmation that you are firing blanks.

You'll be fine. Just lie back and think of Ireland

Are the headlights Halogen or Xenon (HID)?

E-Roottoot thank you for the detailed information. I thought that diesel waxing occured at about 0 Deg C. I can remember when I was young seeing on the television, in black and white, scenes of lorry drivers lighting fires under their tanks. Winters may have been a lot colder then. The car is kept in a garage and I hope to be able use it around Christmas so unless we get a really cold snap it should be OK and I can then top up the tank with "winter" diesel.

Like a lot of members my car, an Octavia II 2.0Tdi CR, is not being used much as we are currently only doing short shopping journeys and we use my wife's Renault Clio for those. Should I be concerned that the diesel in my Octavia which was bought in June this year as I understand that the composition of diesel sold in the UK in the winter months is changed to stop it waxing? If the fuel sold in the summer is liable to wax in our winter temperatures here in North West England can I mix something else with the diesel, I have almost a full tank, without causing damage to the fuel system?

I had a similar occurrence about 2 years ago. I could prove, by receipts where I was but the insurance company would not say where the "accident" happened only that it was nowhere near where I was. Although my insurance company wrote to the third parties insurance company for more details they did not get a reply. It took over 8 months to sort out and near to my insurance renewal date I had to phone my insurance company and after some strong words on my part they agreed to close the case as they had not heard back from the third party. As the car involved was stated as an Octavia it could have been a simple mistake in noting down the registration number. I have had no speeding or parking tickets from another car so I do not think that my plates have been cloned.

A generic fault code reader may not interrogate all the modules. If it is not a broken wire between the door and the body as AGFalco suggests you might want to get the car scanned using VCDS, Carista, OBDEleven, VCP or some other VAG specific code reader.

Did you use a VAG specific fault code reader or just a generic OBDII reader?