varaderoguy

You can go into any VAG dealer and get a KESSY key and then get it programmed in by any car key specialist or by a VW garage/Skoda/Seat dealer

With the engine switched off, check the fan at least spins by hand. Check the fuse shown above. Then its a case of making sure the thermostat is operating correctly too.

It's a ventilation hole. Best that is removed.

It sounds like you have a bulb setup rear cluster as opposed to LEDs. It easy to change out. Just a case of finding a good replacement part (its not 600ukp btw) and swapping out the rear cluster.

Suspect it will be a wheel bearing going.

It is recommended that after a long run, switch off auto/stop-start and keep the engine running for about a minute to help the turbo cool down and keep oil circulating. We had to do that with 80's and 90's cars to keep turbos from failing.

I'll bring in @pab567 to assist here.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s4e08/

Generally you need an 096 battery which works out at generally 70Ah. I would go for a Varta or Bosch (same difference). EFB battery is fine. An S04 E08 Bosch battery is perfect. Even made in Czechia. and yes to buying your own Pro ODBeleven and doing it properly yourself. PS ..avoid Halfords at all costs.

@RajaStyle Yes, that is correct. The dongle actually works on ALL VAG cars - i.e. VW, Seat, Skoda, Audi, Bentley.

This related to a problem with the secondary coolant pump right at the back of the engine bay. Mainly used for the heating system. Also check your battery, if that battery voltage is low, then it may also throw a code in relation to the pump.

What it is worth doing is find a GOOD local VAG specialist near you; taking it to them and asking them to go through it and ask what they think needs looking at. Tell them you are planning on keeping the car and want to make sure that everything is good for the future. I'm making an assumption that you have a TDI (either 150 or 190). Things I might consider: Coolant change (and change of header tank if you still have the silica bag in and cannot remove it) Cambelt and Water pump change HALDEX service (clean/replace gauze and fluid) DSG gearbox fluid and filter change (either for DQ250A-6 speed or DQ381A-7speed gearbox) Oil/Filter/Fuel Engine Flush - make sure you run the car on 5W30 (better for higher mileage Octavias) Running some Super Diesel through it to clean the EGR and keep the injectors and DPF happy (or you can do the normal diesel plus use the fuel additive I use - https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html) to keep things sweet. Air Conditioning charge, Aircon cleaner and a new cabin air filter Clean and waxoiling under the wheel arch liners to stop rot caused by the sponge of doom and in the chassis rails. I heard a kitch saying - any fool can buy a new car, but it takes real men to take and keep running their old cars. Sorry - all a bit alpha male and all that nonsence but your carbon footprint will be considerably better and you'll have a car that you know/love.

Nope - you need the appropriate screen for the appropriate system.

A couple of pointers on this: 1) You do need VCDS, but you can also code in new batteries with ODBEleven as well. 2) I cannot stress how much of a bad thing using the rip/off VCDS 12.x software is. It was pirated software that was cracked from Ross-Tech and if you really care for your Skoda, I highly recommend not touching that software as you don't know what its doing to your car. Please...please...please don't support dodgy software pirates, as it supports illegal activities and has the potential to brick your car. 3) For those of you who are running things on a budget, you can get a basic dongle from 51 UKP from ODBEleven; this is not expensive and that pays back for itself after the first use.

Check the engine mountings - these do fail.

High Mileage - that's NOT high mileage. Car engine is now nicely worn in.... Honestly, the latest crop of Skoda's are not great. The MIB system to MIB3 is a well known disaster area (and continues to be) and the Scout (if its a good spec) are FANTASTIC cars. The Koroq whilst an SUV are uninsipring and thirsty to boot. KEEP THE SCOUT

Officially, you cannot migrate between SOP3.x (03xx) and SOP4.x (04xx) versions, but there are people out there who say you can do it. Be very careful as the opportunities for bricking the hardware are high. It sounds like you have a screen for Bolaro, but a headunit for Amunsden. Unexpected results will occur and there is no mapping or adjustment on the unit per-say to change that.

+1 on that advice

We really need a scan done via ODBEleven/VCDS. It could be a dead injector, a problem with an inlet/exhaust valve or a failed engine mounting. Options are numerous. The shaking is probably coming from a dead cylinder and unbalancing the engine.

The turbo actuator has issues on both TSI and TSI engines. Its usually caused by the actuator mechanism sticking. This sticking is caused by lack of use. One thing that VAG engines do not like is being driven gently. Drive it like its stolen....or at least lots of progressive acceleration. Make sure you can manually open/close the actuator that it is at least moving correctly. Officially, fill up the car with some super diesel and run several tanks of that through the car. Its not an DPF problem (unless the car has not been allowed to regen); but I would recommend the super diesel to help clean out the EGR and DPF. You've got the drive the car hard (make sure fluids are all topped off and tyres are good before going for it). You want that turbo actuator to work, lots of opening/closing and spooling of the turbo. My solution is unauthodox, but it works for me. I tend to buy normal diesel and put in some https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html DPB100 in with each tank - which helps the burn process and helps keep DPF, EGR and injectors clean. Others would say its not necessary, but I've owned several TDI's and they have all responded well to this solution.

Project Blu is having some TLC today. We thought about looking at the disc brakes (they are fine, no attention needed) but decided to look behind the wheel arch liners and the sponge of doom. Good news is that on this 123000 mile car, it's really clean. Jet washed it all off and applied the Tetraseal. Just three more wheels to go.

I would say it's not helping. The car is also complaining about low voltage so suspect you might also have a failing battery.

ODBeleven is just fine. I think it is a good tool for the job. Simple code scanning and modifications....great tool for the job.

Okay, yes. Acknowledge the low battery in keyfob. You have two bigger issues: Firstly, the gear selector sensor is faulty. Common problem on VAG cars. Quite an easy fix but you need a new gear selector sensor or you need to get the sensor cleaned and checked. The other error is in relation to the camera on the front of the car. It needs setting up. Suspect you may have had a new windscreen recently and not had the windscreen alignment done??