varaderoguy

The other thing to consider is that the temperature/humidity (optional light) sensor might have failed. Non-FL MK3s have a sensor behind the mirror that often fails (common Golf problem too). I think the strategy might be that the fan motor runs higher than normal to compensate for no sensor information. If that's been the situation for a while it is likely you have burnt out your blower motor and/or the Heater Control/Climatronic unit in the process. A full code scan will reveal this.

I would check fuses first. Both the ones in the glove box and under the bonnet. Make sure you don't have any third party accessories.

So - the million dollar question here is: how did you originally remove Component Protection? If you did it any other way - other than visiting a Skoda Dealer - then I'm afraid you are going to be stuck with this one.

@isleamfatih - Component protection is ON - and the unit will continue to not work until you get this removed by a Skoda dealer. A firmware update will not fix the problem (although you can update to 0480) when you have CP removed. So - you need a receipt for the headunit and screen and some identification and head over to the Skoda Dealer. You need to pay for an hour's diagnostic.

I agree with @EnterName and the mechanic Ken - that 80k miles is waayyy to long for a box service. About 40-50k miles seems more prudent; however we all have differing views. Some of us are old-school and prefer to make sure that the lubrication and filters are kept clean and well maintained - on the principle of trying to keep the vehicles going for as long as possible whilst keeping our carbon footprint to a minimum. Others have the opposite views and do only the bare-minimum or exactly what is required only when absolutely necessary. The trouble is that VAG want you to continue to change out your car for the latest/shinest thing. At the moment, the economy is kind of on the floor here in the UK, so keeping and maintaining what we have is appropriate; swapping out cars every three years - model - is now bust (especially considering new car prices). Those of us who want to keep our vehicles running as well as they can - will do what we can to keep them that way. Last of the coal-rollers!

Sure, that should be fine. That will read codes and allow you to do basic changes and checks.

There are lots of fake Skoda Nav cards on ebay and the such. Try getting a genuine 8G or 16G card for your system, downloading the latest maps by putting in your VIN into the Skoda maps portal and trying again.

Just avoid all that nonesense and go and get yourself an ODBEleven dongle. It will be a lot less hassle and will give you a proper code readout as opposed to just generic codes.

Okay - good luck with that one. It basically coding in the unit to the car and removing Component Protection.

If you have ACC, the standard 'distance' between cars - is very German, i.e. quite close and a little intimitatory. I set my ACC to Far which seems to be a little less agressive.

On a run, my TSI 2.0 190bhp (lowest power output of EA888 engine) gets 52-55mpg running on super unleaded and tyres in ECO inflation.

and yet...there seems to be an intermediate option! It looks like you have a light sensor (updated) and a camera in your car. I think we might need a full scan of the car to determine the modules and then we can advise on coding.

oh - possibly the dual mass flywheel taking a burton in that case. Not terrible, not the end of the world, but certain a pain in the butt.

humm, that not really how you do a CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) test on a battery. The whole concept is that the rear parking sensors are on the end of a very long CANBUS network stretching out across the car. If the alternator cannot keep up with the poor battery, it will cause spikes in the voltage and this will upset the CANBUS network itself. Get yourself a CCA tester from ebay and do a proper test. Voltage is not always a good indicator of a problem battery.

That's fine - we do full on nerdiness, pedantry and nasel-hair (car) spotting here at Briskoda! 😁

Thanks @ords for being my checker. You are right. So - system is under pressure. A new cap is probably a good shout in that case.

Its a slightly different setup on MK3 cars to MK3.5 cars. On MK3.5, there is a camera that does a multitude of functions, but on the MK3's, its different modules. You probably have Lane Assist, but that is a different sensor to the sensor for high beam assist. Have a look at the back of your mirror - and if you have the appropriate sensor, it should show up as a black square on the back of the cabin mirror. No square - means no sensor and without retrofitting, you won't be able to do high beam assist.

Okay - be careful of this one. Two things: 1) Don't fill up the coolant to the top of the tank. This will just cause overflow. Make sure the coolant header tank is kept to the MAXIMUM level and no higher. 2) Re: cap - they are all VERY stiff if you don't touch them for a while. Repeated screwing on or a tiny squirt of silicon lubricant on the screw part of the cap will be enough to free it off a little. A new cap is a good call, because they can fail. I've checked your profile and it doesn't say if your car is a TSI (petrol) or TDI (diesel). TDI's tend to use coolant when they do a re-gen. Its best to keep an eye on it on a weekly basis and check it at the same time you check your oil level. 3) Remove the silica teabag in the coolant header tank if you are able to do. Keep an eye on the levels; if they drop off again then you've potentially got an issue with a faulty header tank or a potential issue with the header gasket.

Can you check your fuses please? The slightly worrying output from above is that there is no supply voltage to the hall sensors.

Humm - thanks for posting the full VCDS output. Apprechiated. Other than random Databus error message in Module 01 (engine) (keep an eye on this one - and I would suggest doing a CCA test on the battery if you are still getting this error repeating itself - looks like a data line CANBUS error), it all looks clean. Things to check: 1) Make sure that cabin air filter is not block or looking terrible. 2) If you can get in under the central console, can I suggest to look at the actuator of the flap motor. VCDS SAYS it is working correctly, but it obviously isn't. Make sure there is no physical problems with the motor or the connecting rods.

What version of VCDS do you have? We only support genuine VCDS versions on this forum.

Mechanic is being lazy and hasn't heard of penitrating oil aka WD40.

If it has failed to do a purge, then it would have failed for a reason (reason code). We really need to see an output from VCDS/ODBEleven to comment further. Assuming you refilled the coolant back up to maximum in the coolant tank with G12evo and that the silica bag has been removed (and hasn't split - one other reason for overpressurisation). Sounds like your coolant system is become overly pressurised. Things to consider: do a gas/exhaust gas test on the coolant bottle (to make sure your cylinder head gasket hasn't failed) and that the thermostat hasn't failed closed.

It sounds like this is more of an electrical issue that mechanical. I might suggest that you have corrosion somewhere on one of the connectors....

Okay - I'll clarify - it has a gause/strainer instead, but it still needs cleaning out. If this gets blocked, it will kill your pump.