varaderoguy

Joy - thanks for giving us an update.

Could be a number of places? EGR / Turbo / Oil Pan. Suggest you keep an eye on the oil level and book the car in for attention.

The other issue that is prevelant in earlier MK3's - is wicking of coolant up the sensors and into the sensor wiring. Loads of MK7 Golf's also suffer this problem. The symptom you report; intermittent issues with sensor readings even though the coolant is at the right level - is an issue with the coolant breaking down the electrical connection into wiring loom. Super bad news, but you can check if this is an issue for you by following the sensor wires back to where the wires join the rest of the loom and squeezing with your fingertips back to the connector. If you see coolant coming out the end of the connector (which goes into the sensors in the Coolant Header tank), then you get an car electrical specialist to trace back the wires to where there is no coolant wicking/hydroscopic action and cut/splice new wires. It seems that for some reason, the coolant is getting past the packing in the electrical connector on the coolant tank. I think its more a problem with the header tank - and if this is an issue, you also need a new header tank to stop that wicking action from getting into the wiring loom again.

Only very early MK3 cars; most of the problem vehicles were Gen2 Octavia's, but early Gen3 cars did have Euro5 engines; changeover year was 2014-2015 from Euro5 to Euro6 though.

Do you have a video or audio of this vibration.

Yes, speak to AutoGlass and your insurer and tell them that the previous repair failed. It should be covered under AutoGlass's warranty.

oh yes, just don't do it. TDI's aren't designed for anything under 10 miles. I've had several TDI150's and they all need a good run to keep them happy.

I agree - a wheel alignment should be a first port of call. The thing is with Octavia's; they do have the habit of throwing out their wheel alignment (its also a Golf/Leon issue too); try to avoid the potholes if possible, but IMHO - this will need to be done as an annual thing. The other thing you should consider is using some sound deadening material in the boot area. This is lacking in the Octavia (one of the reasons why its cheaper than a Golf), but for a small role of the stuff, line the metal base and spare wheel well with this and it will make a massive difference.

It sounds like a loose metal cover. Can you make sure that the covers over the exhaust manifold are all tight and any covers around the turbo are also all tight.

I don't think its a difficult job. In all honesty, with the age of these cars now, odd things like this are bound to happen. Try and buy 'quality' parts if you can as they will fit better.

I dont remember that colour. I get the impression somebody replaced one colour with another in Photoshop.

The trouble is that in most dealerships, they use a pressurisation system for getting rid of any air locks as well as using ODIS to tell it to purge the system too. People have mixed results with just allowing the cars to 'burb' themselves; it doesn't always work.

Suggest making sure you are on the latest firmware for your MIB1 system and then enabling up Skoda Surround on your system. Sound quality will be much improved.

Yes, this is cars with G12Evo.

You need to keep the wheel arch liners clean. The rot is caused by dirt getting into the "sponge of doom" behind the wheel arch liner which then causes water and moisture to get into the sills which then rots them out from inside. All Golf, Leon and Octavias stuff the same problem. Take out the wheel arch liner, jet wash it to death, clean up the sponge of doom, let it all dry out, then waxoil it to death (Inc sills) and reinstall.

There is a process you need to do to remove air from the coolant system. This can be done on VCDS or ODBeleven. You need to do in basic settings a function called "Fill Coolant Circuit"

Umm... nope. I found one in my MY19 build car and I've removed a couple of silica teabags from header tanks on MY20 and 21 cars. They are still there.

Definitely doesn't need flushing, but if you are insistent on this, draining the header tank and radiator via the tap on the bottom of the radiator then using a couple of litres of de-minerialised water to get rid of any sediment is appropriate. Then refill with G12evo.

Either 140A or 180A depending on the type of alternator you use. AutoDoc show many for the EA288 engine that have different outputs (higher output ones are the more expensive units e.g Bosch)

Map updates were stopped back in 2024 for the MIB1 Columbus system.

If you do another scan, you will probably see that the blower flap motor has failed. Common problem.

Yes, it coded; yes, it can be upgrade, but it will probably need a new MIB2 unit and a new screen, then an hour at the local Skoda dealer to remove Component Protection.

That is going to be a VERY dead battery causing all kinds of errors on the CANBUS network. Do a CCA test on the battery. Replace if its 20% below capacity.

Yes; that is true, but please get the car to do a full forced re-gen first ; see what the calculated values are and if they don't drop, get the DPF cleaned and counters reset.

Within that diagnostic fee - the first hour - they should be able to do the work to do the CP removal.