varaderoguy

Try to see if you can determine where the sound is coming from. The usual thing is: if there is a mysterious sound, then make a recording of it and show the service advisor, so they don't fob you off and say "sorry sir, no fault found, that will be £190 for diag pls"

Yes, you can do the service light reset procedure above. Also suggest that you invest in an ODBEleven to make this task easier for you.

The last letter is usually a parts revision letter - e.g. 06K145725L is the earliest revision, followed by 06K145725R and then 06K145725T

There are a number of postings on how how to do this; go and check out https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/ part of Briskoda, but broadly its like this: Download the update from either the Briskoda/VW site or the Skoda update portal. Get a fresh 64G/128G SD card and make sure it is formatted in FAT32/vFAT format. Decompress the .7zip file and put the resulting files (top directory has MIB1 and MIB2 folders in it) onto the SD Card Put the SD card into SD1 slot - remove any other SD cards Switch on the MIB system A message should appear saying there are updates: OR Go to Nav, press Settings, Go to Map Version information and Press the Update button. The SD button should be highlighted. Select it. Ideally you should have the car on a battery charger/maintainer or have the engine running whilst you update the maps. IF you speak to @pab567, he might be able to point you in the direction of update firmware for your system to improve reliability.

Nobody is going to dissuade you from changing your timing or water pump. Typically (and the current thinking) - is that if it hasn't been done within 7 years and/or 120,000 miles, then it is probably due for a change. I suspect that you would be within that range - based on age. Have a look at the timing belt and see if there is any micro-cracking. The water pumps from 2013-2017 were susceptible to failure, so a new water pump would not go amiss. re: engine - built proof as long as the oil/filters are changed every 10k miles.

You might be able to ask @pab567 who maybe able to assist you.

Eyks - thats a high oil consumption. Worth taking a look at this posting about the issues on the 1.8tsi engine:

The 1.8tsi can be problematic. If its been well maintained, you should be fine, but they have a habit of using oil. Its worth piling your way through all (72 pages) of this posting on Briskoda about the 1.8TSI engine:

Most Octavia's will be getting to the stage where they need a new battery. This is because most modern batteries have a life span of about 5 years before they need replacing. My usual rule of thumb: if the CCA test is 20% below the battery capacity, its on its way out. e.g. if you have a battery of 680CCA it shows below 544CCA, then it is probably time to start looking at replacements. I got a cracking deal on a new Varta battery (ironically made in the Czechia), its a 70Ah capacity. Just a case of coding in the new battery.

From everything I've learnt, its mileage based. However, like all fluids, they do degrade if either there is lots of low mileage / hot/cold cycles that occur, so maybe that is why your garage is recommending it. If its a Skoda dealer, then you have to consider whether they are upselling anything, namely servicing. Suggest maybe going to a VAG specialist in Norwich for a second opinion.

Oil in your coolant is never good. It will either be migrating at the coolant package or at the cylinder head. Time to pressurise your system and find out where the leak is.

Good call for preventative maintaince. DSG, yes, agree - get that filter and fluid changed. Depending on who you go to (I would recommend independant VAG specialists these days, Skoda dealers are terrible) - you would be looking at £300 for that service. I agree that 80k is excessive. I've seen the VAG ATF fluid beginning to breakdown at 45k miles, so this is a good call. Its the mechatronics that cause problems and are the expensive parts (although not so much on the DQ381 boxes) VAQ / Limited Slip Diff / aka posh trick diff - yes, get this done - these fluids are recommended every 30k miles anyway. Standard oils etc, go for OEM kit, although I find that it is possible to get original OEM filters cheaper from VW than from Skoda. Coolant - yes, get it flushed and remove the silica teabag of doom/replace header tank if you haven't already done it and get it refilled with G12evo

Your Skoda dealer can provide a full size spare (or a 205/55 R16 will fit just fine on steel or alloy) and you can get all the parts needed such as the foam inserts from your dealer/stealer. The Skoda Shop in Lincoln will also have the parts needed, for example: https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/copy-of-spare-wheel-kit-octavia-iii-vrs You can also find the spare parts needed from breakers and well as third party companies.

Please don't use unknown chinese parts. There is no information on what this device might actually be or what the electronics actually are inside (any person can put a label on the front of a plastic box). Remember the first rule of buying cheap products: buy cheap, buy twice.

Are you refering to ODIS which is the diagnostic tool or The electronic service guide - erwin previously known as elsa - which you can find at https://skoda.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

@pab567 is your man and hopefully he can advise as appropriate.

A couple of possibilities. 1) The rubber coolant hose as split at that point or the pipe work at split at the joint. 2) The coolant is dripping onto the pipe. Can you make sure it's not coming from the water pump.

We still need a proper scan of the car on ODBeleven or VCDS to make further comments.

Not always, not if the vanes are stuck in the shut position.

Well, from that report, the only thing I can see is: there is a power management problem... possibly caused by a dying battery and the MIB system has locked itself (Component Protection) and all the speakers have connectivity issues. No issues reported with security or locking.

Yes, sadly a symptom of Skodas and VWs. Their accerators are set in Logarithmic mode; in sports mode, they go to Linear mode or Audi mode. You can adjust the standard mode for the car - and IMHO I find that if you have a DSG gearbox, it makes a huge difference because the engine and the gearbox stop fighting each other.

I think that if you perform a firmware update on the MIB system, it really makes a difference. My MIB2.5 Columbus with Canton sounded flat and horrible - underwhelming. A firmware update made the audio far more dynamic and the sound was a lot warmer.

I'm assuming that you are quite price sensitive. What are your expectations on price for a rear silencer?

Hello there, I suspect that you have either a boost pressure leak on the Turbo (incoming, check the manifold for leaks) or you have sticking Turbo vanes. Check the turbo vane actuator and make sure it hasn't got stuck. Other issues highlighted: a) Remote Key 2 needs a new battery b) You have a Left trailer tail lamp bulb that has failed. All the other faults about Restricted performance and no cruise control is in relation to the Turbo problem.

I can HIGHLY recommend the Goodyear Vector 4 All Season tyres. Its often cold / wet / Snowy / dirty roads here in Scotland. We run them on both our Octavia's. Absolutely blinding tyres. They can do down to about -15C, light snowy condtions and up to 40C in summer. What's not to like....